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Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
Pity the double-loop bowline—it’s getting worse press than Jacko. Two issues ago, we bagged on the knot because in 1989 Lynn Hill took a 70-foot groundfall when her partly tied bowline pulled free of her harness.
John Long: Mountains of Trouble
The cement-bucket drop test, swami belts and the beginning of the end of a fabled climbing club.
Simon Yates' New Route on Mount Vancouver
Simon Yates and Paul Schweizer gamble on the first alpine-style ascent of the Southwest Spur of Mount Vancouver. | By Paul Schweizer
Pete Ward is big—not only ’cause he towers at a top-out height, but because he’s one of the best setters in the country.
Charlie Fowler American Alpinist
That Charlie Fowler would meet his end while doing what he loved is no huge surprise given the sheer volume of his climbing. At age 52, he'd racked up three and a half decades of it, and had carried his quiet air of a seasoned survivor from hard rock to the high-risk games of alpine climbing and soloing.
Five Ten Prism Rock Shoe
I've worn various climbing shoes and wished that they were better at this or that -- heel hooks, dime edges, smearing and so on. But I've never donned a shoe and thought, I wish these shoes would outside edge better.
Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
Recently I strained my wrist quite badly while climbing. Slopers and pinches are painful. I’m concerned about pushing it too hard to the point of tearing cartilage. I just feel that most doctors, no matter how you explain it to them, don’t understand climbing at all.