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Climb Safe: Spotting for Bouldering
Jason Kehl is high. Twenty-five feet up the Grandpa Peabody boulder, the 60-foot monster testpiece in the Buttermilks near Bishop, he has just pimped a sustained, overhanging V10 section, but isn’t out of the woods yet. The seven-move sloper crux is still ahead.
John Long: Mountains of Trouble
The cement-bucket drop test, swami belts and the beginning of the end of a fabled climbing club.
Not So Fast: Lessons From a Father-Son Trip to Patagonia
Every couple of years, my son Tim, Jr. and I take a climbing trip together. Usually we pick one of my “dream climbs”—those classic routes that you always hear about, but seem too difficult to consider seriously. But my son encourages me to climb harder than I think I can, and together we have done The Scenic Cruise, The Naked Edge, Primrose Dihedrals and most recently Lotus Flower Tower. It is especially cool for me both to tick a lifetime goal and climb with my son.
Cold Justice Paul Cormier
January 24, 2005: Paul Cormier looked like a mad scientist from the North Pole. His graying hairs shot out of the sides of his brown fleece hat, their tips frosted with rime and frozen sweat.
Alex and Thomas Huber Climb in Queen Maud Land
Stephon Siegrist and the Huber Brothers-three of Europe's top free climbers-embark on an Antarctic expedition to the spellbinding realm of the Queen Mound Land, and open the coldest chapter of their lives.
Revolution Pocket Jib Review
Revolution Pocket Jibs10-pack for $19 Climbing indoors turns you into a sloppy fool. All the holds protrude, and climbing becomes a matter of plopping ...
Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
The last three years I’ve had medial tendonosis in both elbows. For several months I’ve tried all the exercises in various rehab programs including [Dr. J’s] Dodgy Elbows. I wake up every night with pain in my elbows, particularly when I bend my arms. Should I keep getting cortisone shots three times a year? Is surgery an option?
How to Unlock a Crux
I get flustered by complex cruxes above good rests. I down climb to the rest and get more confused, then finally go up and slap aimlessly for something just to get it over with. Any advice for calmer route reading?