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Climb Safe: Knot Passing 101
Rappelling past a knot that links two ropes end-to-end, however, need not puzzle you, nor must you learn this seemingly complicated yet vital bit of ropework the hard way. The following five-step method for passing a knot is easy to master, safe and efficient.
TNB: The Only Blasphemy
John Bachar laces up his boots and cinches the sling on his chalk bag. “Ready?” Only then do I realize he means to climb all two thousand feet solo, without a rope. To save face, I agree, thinking: Well, if he suggests something too crazy, I’ll just draw the line. I was the first to start soloing out at Josh anyhow.
Jah Man (5.10) Sister Superior
The mighty Jah Man checks in at a legit 5.10c. It’s not some super-hyper-sandbagged mid-range 5.11 masquerading as a 5.10+. Jah Man tackles Sister Superior’s sheer West Face via 250 steep feet of Wingate sweetness with exposed climbing, plus great gear and perfect belay ledges.
WHEN MAXIME TURGEON AND LOUIS-PHILIPPE MNARD stepped onto the Ruth Glacier in the spring of 2005, no one in the climbing community had ever heard of them.
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Asolo Cholatse TH
Cholatse is an awesome 21,000-foot mountain in the Khumbu region of the Himalaya. Cholatse is also an awesome ice and alpine boot.
Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
A year and a half ago I fell mountaineering, banged my right kneecap and couldn’t walk for two weeks. I saw a doctor, who said that I had lost cartilage. For the past year my knee has constantly throbbed.
How to Stay Psyched
Training without goals is like coffee without caffeine—pointless. Set some goals. Write them down. Vary your sessions. Vary your climbing.