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Climb Safe: Ascender Safety 101
Three fatalities on this one route alone underscore the seriousness of jugging fixed ropes. Though seemingly simple and safe, this task, like rappelling, is one of climbing’s most insidious killers. The good news is that, as with rappelling, a few simple precautions can minimize the risk.
John Long: The Royal Scam
Coming clean on the mysterious first ascent of a Yosemite classic.
To find paradise, look no further than your own backyard. A photo expose on Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley and the climbers who are making it happen.
John Bachar by Henry Barber
John Bachar's friend and rival Henry Barber recounts their competition to make the first ascent of a difficult rock climbing in Yosemite in the late 1970s.
TNB: American Dirtbag
Where are all the dirtbags? I'm not talking about these imposter dirtbags, the new-age lurkers taking up all the parking spots at Camp 4, Indian Creek and Miguel's Pizza with their pimped-out, Direct TV-receiving Sprinter vans that look like college dorm rooms on 26s.
MSR Reactor Stove
It was only a matter of time before MSR, the Toyota of climbing and backpacking stoves, picked up the gauntlet shoved down its throat three years ago by the upstart Jetboil, which unleashed an integrated stove and pot that touted fast boil times, decent performance in wind, and the best fuel-efficiency ever seen in a propane/butane canister cooker.
Feet: Broken Foot
In mid June, I fell bouldering. After two surgeries, three plates and tons of screws, my foot is on the mend. The doctor said that I could backpack, but I can’t ever run or put any kind of impact on my foot due to lots of cartilage damage; my foot has a limited amount of steps before arthritis sets in. Can I ever climb again?
Staying Power - How to Last All Day at the Crag
You know how climbing is: less about how hard you pull than how long you can last. The climber having the most fun is the one still cranking at sunset, yet the formula for sustaining energy levels during a prolonged day can be elusive. Here are tips on how to last all day at the crag.
Can I Mix a Static With a Dynamic Rope for Rappelling?
Know that even in the best circumstances, rappelling is never safe and is the number four killer of climbers, experienced and novice alike. Of course, it is conceivable that you can rappel on a static and dynamic cord and survive, but you must know a thing or two about those ropes.