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  • Dave Graham Makes Third Ascent of Delirium (V15)
  • Caroline Gleich, World-Famous Ski Mountaineer, is a Trad Addict
  • Virtual Reality: Watch Alex Honnold Solo the Needles in 360-degrees
  • Bouldering Access is Back in Catoctin Mountain Park, Maryland
  • Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of 120 Degrees (5.15a), Flatanger
  • VIDEO: Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll Loves Pain and Dirty, Wet Cracks
  • Klemen Bečan Sends Papichulo (5.15a), Disappointed With Ease
  • Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle
  • President Obama Takes Over Yosemite
  • Rustam Gelmanov Makes Second Ascent of Hypnotized Minds (V16)
  • RIP Ken Wilson: Editor of Mountain Magazine, Rabble-Rouser
  • Lena Herrmann, 22, Climbs 5.14c in the Frankenjura
  • The Desert – Excerpt from “American Climber” by Luke Mehall
  • Heather Weidner Sends China Doll (5.14a R) on Gear
  • INTERVIEW: USA Boulderers On the IFSC World Cup in Vail
  • Stefano Carnati Sends Action Directe (5.14d), Frankenjura
  • RIP: Nicholas Clinch, 85, Led Only American First Ascent of an 8000er
  • Jonathan Siegrist's Mission to Rediscover Switzerland's World-Class Sport Climbing
  • Megan Mascarenas Dominates 2016 Vail Bouldering World Cup
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail 2016 (Finals)
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail 2016 (Semi-Finals)
  • Mélissa Le Nevé, a Top-Three Boulderer at Vail World Cup, Talks Rock
  • VIDEO: Pump Control and Efficient Resting for Climbing
  • Virginia Sandstone Crag Opened to Climbing
  • Bouldering World Cup Comes to Vail, Colorado This Weekend
  • Alex Megos Sends Hubble (8c+), Northern Lights (9a)
  • INTERVIEW: Melissa Arnot on Climbing Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen
  • Dai Koyamada Establishes Nehanna (V14/15) in Japan
  • VIDEO: Daniel Woods on the Elusive V17 Bouldering Grade
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Makes Second Ascent of Geocache (9a+/5.15a)
  • Q&A: Jon Cardwell On Climbing Biographie/Realization (9a+/5.15a)
  • Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day
  • American Melissa Arnot Claims Mount Everest Record
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Coxsey, Chon Win Innsbruck Bouldering World Cup
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Brooke Raboutou Win 2016 Riverrock Boulder Bash
  • Zimmerman, Wright Establish New Route in Alaska’s St. Elias Range
  • Three Dead, Two Missing and Hundreds Summit on Everest
  • Robbie Phillips and Jacob Cook Free El Cap’s 30-Pitch El Niño
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma On His Santa Linya Project
  • Climbing and Mentorship Come Together at City Rocks
  • Japan Triumphs at Bouldering World Cup in Navi Mumbai
  • Silvio Reffo Sends Goldrake (5.15a), Cornalba, Italy
  • The Wizard - Dean Potter
  • The Great Unknown - Graham Hunt
  • Dean Potter: What I've Learned
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Ofer Blutrich Sends Mind Control - First Israeli to Climb 5.14c
  • INTERVIEW: Sonnie Trotter on Freeing "The Prow," 5.14a Multi-pitch
  • Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite
  • Block and Wall: Buildering and Raving in Trento, Italy
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Attempts The World's First 5.15a Flash
  • VIDEO: The Width of Life - Tribute to Dave Pegg, Colorado Climbing Legend
  • William Bosi, 17, Climbs Rainshadow (5.14d), Malham Cove
  • Shauna Coxsey Triumphs, Tomoa Narasaki Shocks at Chongqing World Cup
  • Alex Lowe's and David Bridges' Remains Found on Shishapangma
  • Mark Cole, Longtime Leader in SE Climbing, Passes at 58
  • The Greatest Boulderer You’ve Never Heard Of: Ryuichi Murai's on Fire
  • Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation's Khumbu Climbing Center Almost Complete
  • Climbers Remember Nepal on Anniversary of Earthquake
  • Shauna Coxsey Dominates at Kazo World Cup
  • VIDEO: Epic Climber - Sharma, Ondra, Digiulian, and Marin in Spain
  • Adam Ondra On Climbing In The Olympics
  • Crack School with Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker (Video Series)
  • Mary Harlan: Heartiness, Suffering and The Zion Link-Up
  • Chuck Pratt's "The View From Dead Horse Point"
  • VIDEO: Ethan Pringle Sends Meadowlark Lemon (V14), Red Rock
  • Megan Mascarenas Places Third At Meiringen Bouldering World Cup
  • VIDEO: Slow Details - 2016 Meiringen Bouldering World Cup
  • Tyler Armstrong, 12, Denied Permit to Climb Mount Everest
  • Drew Ruana Sends Five 5.14s, Onsights Four 5.13s at the RRG
  • Ryuichi Murai Sends Hydrangea (V15), His Third V15 in a Month
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees 22-Year-Old Project, Outro (5.15a)
  • Everest's Icefall Doctors Establish 2016 Route Through Khumbu Icefall
  • Black Diamond Recalls Camalots/Camalot Ultralights, Ascenders and Via Ferratas
  • Glen Dawson, Sierra Nevada Climbing Pioneer, Dies at 103
  • Jim Curran, British Climber and Author of "K2, The Story of The Savage Mountain," Dies
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Adam Ondra’s Goldrake (5.15a)
  • John Long Writing Symposium Accepting 2016 Applications
  • Access Fund 2016 Climbing Preservation Grants
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Pure Imagination (5.14c)
  • Five New Mixed Routes in Pilot Creek, Wyoming
  • Allen Frame Hill, Climber-Filmmaker, Found Dead at Home
  • VIDEO: Profondo Sud - Bouldering in Basilicata, Italy
  • Ryan Vachon Makes Second Ascent of Saphira (M15-)
  • Adam Ondra Claims 5.15a/b and 5.14d First Ascents in One Weekend
  • Brooke Raboutou, Dru Mack Send Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the RRG
  • Durango Climbers Linkup Six Fisher Towers in Under 24 Hours
  • Margo Hayes Sends Pure Imagination (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge
  • VIDEO: Edu Marin Discovers His Limits On Alex Huber's Sansara (8b+/5.14a)
  • Matty Hong Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
  • 2016 Piolets d’Or Award Recipients Announced
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Shadow Boxing (5.14d), Flashes Waka Flocka (5.14b)
  • Interview: Klemen Bečan on the First Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends V15!
  • Stefano Carnati, 17, Makes Quick Work of Goldrake (5.15a) in Italy
  • Margo Hayes, Sean Bailey Win USA Sport Open National Championships
  • Big Crowds, Big Money: Climbers Bring $3.6 Million to the RRG
  • Ethan Pringle and La Reina Mora – The Full Story
  • V15 Send Train by Adam Ondra, Sachi Amma and Jongwon Chon
  • The Bold and Cold: A History of 25 Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies
  • The 2015 Sharp End Awards from the Access Fund
  • Alex Puccio on Grade Chasing and Climbing Media
  • Magnus Midtbø Makes Fourth Ascent of Seleccion Anal (9a+/5.15a)
  • Daniel Woods Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
  • Legendary Climber Cal Swoager Dies at 66
  • Klemen Bečan Puts Up New 5.15a in Oliana, Spain
  • Mayan Smith-Gobat and Ines Papert Repeat Riders on the Storm, Patagonia
  • Interview: Marc-Andre Leclerc Solos Three Routes on Stanley Headwall
  • Gaetan Raymond Repeats World's Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Catalán Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
  • The Final Frontier – Rumney, NH Land Purchase
  • Scott Cosgrove, Bold Yosemite Climber, Passes Away
  • Highlights from the 2016 Ice Climbing World Youth Championship
  • Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
  • Felipe Camargo Repeats Catalán Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Repeats Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (5.15b)
  • Lucie Hrozová Establishes Hardest Mixed Climb in U.S.
  • ​Snowball Fight on K2: Interview with Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita
  • Drew Ruana, 16, Establishes Smith Rock’s Hardest Route
  • Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita Named Nat Geo Adventurer of the Year
  • Climb Safe: Common Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them
  • Jimmy Webb, Charles Albert Repeat Fontainebleau's “Hardest Climb”
  • Alex Puccio, Jakob Schubert Win 2016 Hueco Rock Rodeo
  • Climbing Anchors and the Evolution of the Quad
  • Tom Ballard Establishes World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Tim Emmett, Klemen Preml Establish 260-Foot WI 12 at Helmcken Falls
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Big Island (V15), Toupie Carnivore assis (V14)
  • Kevin Lopata Sends Jour de Chasse (V15), Fontainebleau (with video)
  • Rocasolano Makes Second Ascent of Catalan Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a)
  • Black Diamond Recalls Carabiners, Quickdraws and Slings
  • Jimmy Webb Sends l’Alchemiste In Three Tries – Downgrades
  • Brette Harrington Free Solos Austríaca in Patagonia
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Megan Mascarenas Win 2016 Bouldering Nationals
  • Marianne van der Steen Flashes Kamasutra (D13+)
  • Barefoot Climber First to Repeat Original l’Alchimiste (~V14)
  • Alban Levier Cranks Third Ascent of l’Alchimiste (V15)
  • New Big Wall Route Established on El Diente North Face in Mexico
  • Epic Ascent of Yosemite’s Ephemeral Widow’s Tears
  • Colin Haley on Patagonian Solo Streak
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall Takes Down the Kraken (V13)
  • Ryan Vachon Dominates 2016 Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition
  • Guillaume Glairon-Mondet Puts Up New V16 in Fontainebleau
  • Two Experienced Climbers Killed in the Scottish Highlands
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Game (V15)
  • Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a), Flashes Fish Eye (5.14b) in Spain
  • Jakob Schubert Sends La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) in Spain
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck - Accepting Risk, Reward & Danger (Part 4)
  • Epic TV's Top Three Training Videos of 2015
  • Chris Sharma Sends Catalan Witness the Fitness (V-Hard) in Spain
  • Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More
  • A Tribute: Doug Walker, First AAC President Killed in Office
  • VIDEO: Barefoot French Climber Sends V12 Traverse
  • Two-time Mugs Stump Award Winner Ryan Jennings Dies on Ice Climb
  • Climbers We Lost in 2015
  • VIDEO: Tragedy Strikes Ueli Steck’s 82 Summit Project
  • Climbers Against Cancer Founder John Ellison Dies
  • VIDEO: Alexey Rubtsov Climbs Three Magic Wood V14s
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Phenomena (V14) in 30 Minutes
  • Kayah Gaydish Climbing Accident Update
  • Climb Safe: To Screamer Or Not To Screamer
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck Runs Up 18 4,000 Meter Peaks In A Day
  • North Carolina Climber Dies in 50-foot Fall
  • Jimmy Webb Puts Up The Matriarch - The Southeast's First V15
  • The Classic Alpinist: Ueli Steck Climbs 82 Summits In 62 Days - Part 1
  • 2016 Mugs Stump Award Recipients
  • Access Fund Launches Second Batmobile
  • VIDEO: Road to the Top - World Cup Training with Alex Puccio
  • Lost in Mozambique – First Ascent on Mt. Namuli
  • The Top 7 Climbing Achievements of 2015
  • Sarah Hueniken First North American Woman to Send M14
  • Climb Safe: Full Strength Haul Loops
  • Will Gadd Sends The Mustang P-51 (M14-) Second Go - with Video
  • Walton, Grainger Claim Another Triple Crown Victory
  • Founder of The North Face, Doug Tompkins Dies in Patagonia
  • VIDEO: Highlights from La Sportiva Legends Only 2015
  • Top 10 Weekend Whippers of 2015
  • Kai Lightner Storms Bishop, Hikes The Mandala (V12)
  • Southern Rampage – Jimmy Webb Establishes Four V14s
  • Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only
  • Alex Megos Hikes Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • Pirmin Bertle Sends Meiose (~5.15b) in Switzerland
  • VIDEO: Martin Stráník Climbs Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Q&A: Ueli Steck On Reclaiming the Eiger Speed Record
  • GEAR OF THE YEAR 2015
  • Edu Marin Redpoints Chilam Balam (5.15b)
  • Martin Stráník Sends Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Top 10 Climbing Videos of 2015
  • A Step Too Far - The Tragic First Ascent of Kuksar
  • VIDEO: Ondra and Markovič Crush in Kranj
  • Ueli Steck Reclaims Eiger Speed Record
  • Kai Lightner Reflects on Competitions, Bouldering and the Future
  • Jonathan Siegrist Crushes Papichulo (5.15a)
  • Dani Andrada Sends Chilam Balam (5.15b)
  • Ondra, Markovič Crowned 2015 Lead World Champions
  • Crack Fix – How to Build a Home Crack Training System
  • VIDEO: Alex Puccio Storms the Buttermilks—Bishop, California
  • The K2 Summit Controversy
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi Send New 5.15b's
  • The Locomotive: Roy McMurtrey – 87 and Still Climbing
  • Whittaker, McManus Claim 2nd Ascent of The Secret Passage, El Cap
  • Sherpa Makes Solo First Ascent on Himalayan Peak
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces Winners
  • VIDEO: Climbing the 9th Grade (5.14d)
  • Hound Ears Competition Postponed Again
  • Jorg Verhoeven Sends Wheel of Life (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Establishes France's Hardest Route
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Establishes Italy’s First 5.15b
  • No Expectations: Joe Kinder Sends 6 5.14c's in Spain
  • Solar, Rock and Landmines—Alex Honnold Explores Angola
  • Spotlight: Megan Mascarenas - The Logician
  • Big Wall Soloing on Bugs
  • Triple Crown Bouldering Series Kicks Off at Stone Fort
  • Niky Ceria Repeats Voyager Sit (V14)
  • Alpine Warriors - History of Alpinists in Yugoslavia
  • VIDEO: Joe Kinder and Patxi Usobiaga Explore Cala Gonone, Italy
  • Sonnie Trotter Fires Blue Jeans Direct (5.14a), Mount Yamnuska, Canada
  • Megos Cruises the Red River Gorge
  • Logan Barber Frees Honeycomb Dome (5.13d) in China
  • Ondra, Kim Sweep Lead World Cup in Wujiang, China
  • How to Build a Home Climbing Wall
  • Winners of the 8th Annual Rock and Ice / Mammut Photo Contest
  • Alex Megos Sweeps the New River Gorge
  • $10,000 Granted for Anchor Replacement Across U.S.
  • Three Sherpas Complete Three Himalayan First Ascents in Three Days
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Nuclear War (V14), New York
  • Dan Mirsky Sends The Crew (5.14c) – Rifle, Colorado
  • Marc-André Leclerc Free Solos Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
  • David Lama Establishes Lebanon's Hardest Route
  • Dave Graham Sends Thor's Hammer
  • Q&A: The Willpower of Mar Álvarez
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle on Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • Tufas in Paradise – Angy Eiter Puts Up New 5.14s in Greece
  • Yosemite Facelift - Finding Beauty Behind the Trash
  • Novice Climbers Could Be Banned from Everest to “Maintain the Glory”
  • Daniel Woods Smashes Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • Sport Climbing Makes Shortlist for 2020 Tokyo Olympics
  • Kim, Škofic Climb the Podium in Puurs
  • Trail Runner Now Hiring
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  • VIDEO: Brette Harrington - Free Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a)
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces 2015 Finalists
  • A Youth Wasted Climbing
  • Toru Nakajima Sends Paint It Black (V15) in RMNP
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper – Youth World Championships Silver Medalist
  • Everest ’96 – Unheard Voices of the 1996 Disaster
  • Paige Claassen Sends The Bleeding, Discusses First Female Ascents
  • Nalle Hukkataival Puts Up New V15 – The Stepping Stone
  • Sachi Amma Redpoints Jungle Boogie, 5.15a
  • Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl Redpoint 1,400-foot Rätikon 5.14
  • Bouldering Bub - Isaac Caldiero
  • REEL ROCK 10 - Interview with Filmmaker Peter Mortimer
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes New 5.14+ in the Fins
  • IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE: DMM Carabiner Recall
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  • Alex Honnold Talks REEL ROCK 10
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  • The Dawn of Urban Big Wall Speed Climbing
  • She Goes! - Half Dome’s Regular Route Climbed After Rockfall
  • Spotlight: Alexander Ruchkin - Russian Locomotive
  • Climbing Beta: Rocktown, Georgia
  • Tex Bossier, Golden Age Climber, Dies in France
  • Ondra Pioneers Four FA's in Norway
  • Alpinists Killed Attempting New Route in Cordillera Blanca, Peru
  • Shiraishi, Garnbret Win Again at Arco Youth World Championships
  • Climbing Beta: El Potrero Chico, Mexico
  • Q&A: Sasha DiGiulian on Climbing the Eiger
  • Q&A: Carlo Traversi on Climbing the Eiger
  • Americans Claim Two Karakoram First Ascents
  • VIDEO: How To Climb 5.14d and Hold A Job
  • Scottish Team Climbs Paciencia on the Eiger North Face
  • USA Girls Rise Up in Arco's IFSC Bouldering Youth and Junior World Championships
  • Rocklands – How Far Are You
  • Seb Bouin Claims First Ascent in Verdon Gorge
  • Jakob Schubert Takes Third Ascent of Thor’s Hammer (5.15a)
  • Dave Graham Repeats Spray of Light (V15)
  • Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Climb the Eiger North Face
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbs La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Stormed Out – Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Bail on Paciencia
  • Roskelleys Climb NE Buttress of Mount Slesse
  • Climb Safe: How to Extend a Rappel
  • Alex Megos Repeats Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Amandla (V14)
  • Markovič, Supper Claim Gold in Stavanger
  • First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress of Mt. Waddington, B.C.
  • Andy Kirkpatrick Solos Sea of Dreams on El Cap
  • How To Make Your Own Clip Stick - Tips from Jonathan Siegrist
  • Sasha DiGiulian, Carlo Traversi Go for Eiger Summit Push Tomorrow
  • Jonathan Hörst, 12, Sends Two 5.14’s
  • Best New Climbing Gear of 2016
  • Stanhope, Segal Free Bugaboos' Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5.14
  • Shauna Coxsey, Alexey Rubtsov Win Final Bouldering WC of the Year
  • Chon, Noguchi Crowned 2015 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Jon Krakauer: Climbing Everest was the Biggest Mistake I've Ever Made
  • 82 and Done – Ueli Steck Completes Alps Mission in 61 Days
  • Lightning Halts Psicobloc, Jimmy Webb and Charlotte Durif Take Gold
  • Potrero Chico First Ascentionist “Magic” Ed Wright Dies
  • Staying Alive in the Death Sport Capital of the World
  • Mina Markovič, Romain Desgranges Win Lead World Cup, Imst, Austria
  • Jon Cardwell Snags Second Ascent of Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle
  • Eight Day Solo First Ascent of Bigwall Route on Mt. Huashan, China
  • Robert Pizem – Father First, Climber Second
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  • British Team Makes First Ascent of The Mirror Wall, Greenland
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace Tips for Rock Climbers
  • New Route and Deaths on Annapurna - World's Deadliest Mountain
  • Julianne Wurm and Jan Hojer On Sending Spree in Silvretta, Austria
  • Adam Ondra Claims Second Ascent of Sharma’s Three Degrees of Separation (5.14d), Céüse
  • Homestead: Access Fund Saves 360 Acres of Climbing Access in Arizona
  • MERU: Highly Anticipated Climbing Film Premieres August 14th
  • Alex Johnson - The Pro Life and Growing Up as a Climber
  • 32-Year-Old Dutch Mountaineer Dies in Fall on Mount Blanc Massif
  • Margo Hayes, 17, Sends Two Rifle 5.14s in One Day
  • Jesse Huey, Brette Harrington Claim Second and Third Free Ascents of Edge of Pan (5.13 R), Squamish
  • Vikki Weldon Makes Fourth Free Ascent of Adder Crack (5.13 R)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • Hukkataival, Woods Claim First and Second Ascents of Get Railed (V14)
  • REEL ROCK 10 Film Tour Lineup
  • Jain Kim, Gautier Supper Win Gold in Briançon, France
  • Karoline Sinnhuber Sends First V13, Charity Boulder, Silvretta
  • VIDEO: Sicilian Deep Water Soloing
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  • Rock Climbing Saved My Life: A Veteran’s Struggle with PTSD
  • Conrad Anker, David Lama Put Up New Route on Temple of Sinewava
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Bellavista (5.14a, 500m)
  • Mina Markovič, Ramón Julián Puigblanque Win Lead World Cup, Chamonix, France
  • Daniel Woods V15 FA Spray of Light, Rocklands
  • ​The Edge of Extinction - First Ascent of Nanga Parbat's Mazeno Ridge
  • Seb Bouin Establishes 5.15a at Pic Saint-Loup
  • UK/US Expedition Summits Unclimbed Himalayan Peak
  • Ueli Steck Reaches Halfway Point on 82 Summits Project
  • Dave Graham Claims FA of Hatchet Prow (V14), Rocklands
  • MOVES - How Many Climbs Can You Identify From Just One Move?
  • Jimmy Webb Makes Second Ascent of Livin Large (V15), Rocklands
  • Belay Ledge Disappears on Half Dome’s Regular Route
  • Giorgia Tesio, 14, Makes First Female Ascent of Chay (5.13d)
  • Dimitri Vogt, 18, Sends Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Time-Lapse: Lightning Triggers Multiple Wildfires in Zion
  • Anthony Johnson Onsights Jihad - Third Ascent of “Terrifying” Vedauwoo Offwidth
  • Only Two Seats Left at the John Long Writing Symposium
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Monkey Wedding (V15)—Rocklands
  • Climbing Access Victory – Michigan’s AAA Walls Re-Opened
  • ​First World Cup Victory for Petra Klingler - Haiyang, China
  • Grampians: Best Bouldering in the World or Overrated?
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma’s Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Sean McColl, Akiyo Noguchi Win Bouldering World Cup, Chongqing, China
  • Ueli Steck, Michi Wohlleben: Eighty-two Summits in 80 days
  • The Beatnik of the Alps: A tale of FA's, Rescues, Love, and Suicide
  • Untouched Rock: Angie Eiter, Bernie Ruech Develop New Crag in Greece
  • Massive Rockfall in Yosemite's Tenaya Canyon
  • Hazel Findlay on Positivity, Being Bold and Staying Focused
  • Cameron Hörst, 14, Sends First 5.14b, Raubritter
  • Josh Ibbertson, 11, Sends Raindogs (5.13b)
  • Jonathan Siegrist: 5.14 First Ascent in the Flatirons, Colorado
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of La Coccinelle Trump L'oeil (5.14), Verdon Gorge
  • Chris Sharma Free-Climbs California’s Redwoods
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Hell'Avaro (5.14c/d)
  • For Sale: 10 Acres at Donner Summit
  • Roland Hemetzberger Repeats Ondra’s Fugu (5.14d)
  • Iranian Team Climbs First Ascent on Karambony Tower, Madagascar
  • Megan Mascarenas, Nathaniel Coleman on the Podium in Vail
  • Inside the Mind of Ethan Pringle – Climbing Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Sachi Amma - Second and Last Ascent of Tinipi (5.15a), Borneo Earthquake
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Jade (V14), Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13) after Vail WC
  • Emily Harrington Sends Golden Gate (5.13) on El Capitan
  • VIDEO: Hazel Findlay - Giving El Cap's Pre-Muir (5.13+) a Try
  • GoPro Mountain Games Hosts Bouldering World Cup
  • Austrian Alpinists Summit Unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska.
  • Adam Ondra Sends White Noise (V14/15), Flashes Bear Toss (V13)
  • Mateusz Haladaj Sends Sharma’s Papichulo (9a+/5.15a)
  • Anna Stöhr and Alban Levier Take Gold in Toronto
  • Twenty-two Year Old Dies in Rappelling Accident on El Cap
  • Ramp Up Your Training with Fun
  • IFSC World Cup in Toronto May 30-31
  • Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain
  • Bouldering Competition to be Held in Memory of Tito Traversa
  • Only Two Spots Left in the John Long Writing Symposium!
  • VIDEO: Tommy Caldwell Cruises Ice-Covered Crack
  • Vasya Vorotnikov, Claire Bresnan Claim Bouldering Titles at Riverrock
  • Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding
  • Siegrist Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d)–“Best climbing trip of my life”
  • Kev Shields – High Solace: Demons, Depression and Solo Climbing
  • VIDEO: Raw Power vs Flawless Technique
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  • Ethan Pringle Sends Jumbo Love (5.15b) – Hardest Sport Climb in America
  • Dean Potter Killed in Wingsuit Accident in Yosemite
  • Solo Climber Found Dead on Denali
  • VIDEO: Gord McArthur - The Man Behind the Machine
  • Training Beta: How to Warm Up For Route Climbing
  • Logan Barber Frees The Firewall (5.13d)—Hardest Trad Line in China
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  • A Second Earthquake and A Shorter Everest
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  • Calling All Non-Sponsored Climbers
  • 2015 Ice Climbing Trip Report: Montana, Wyoming and Norway
  • Melloblocco 2015: World's Largest International Bouldering Festival
  • Dean Potter Sets New Half Dome FKT
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  • Big Men: 5.15a First Ascent by Iker Pou, Spain
  • A Summitless Year for Everest? North Side Closed, Retreat from the South
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    On Ice with Paradox Sports
    On Ice with Paradox Sports



    New 5.14 Alpine Route on Mt. Hooker, Wyoming

    19-Sep-2013
    By

    Mt. Hooker's huge north face. Nik Berry, Mason Earle and David Allfrey journeyed into the Wind River Range of Wyoming with one goal in mind. "We wanted the King Line!" says Berry. Setting their sights on Mt. Hooker, a 12,550-foot granite monolith that yielded the first grade VI climb in the U.S. outside of Yosemite, Berry, Earle and Allfrey scoped the north face and found what they believed to be the "most continuously blank and steep part of the wall," says Berry. The only problem, however, was that all three climbers had forgotten a topo map of the wall and therefore had no idea if the line they envisioned had been climbed previously. 

    Undeterred, the team set off up the wall, using A4 aid on blank sections and free climbing easier terrain for the first 600 feet. "After thinking we were on a new line and then finding a bolt many times over we used our 'phone a friend card,'" says Berry. Allfrey's girlfriend researched the wall from home and then informed the team that they were actually 600 feet up Steve Quinlan's 1980 solo testpiece Sendero Luminoso (VI 5.10 A4). "When we heard this we were all bummed, but the free climbing was so good we were very happy to continue up the line," says Berry. The team then went to work figuring out the best way to free climb the previously aided pitches of the route. "We bolted a two pitch variation to the aid line on the 3rd and 4th pitch," Berry explains. "Dave lead the 3rd pitch at 5.12d and I lead the 4th pitch at 5.12c." After another corner pitch of 5.11c, an A3 seam that Berry describes as "breath taking" arced upwards. Free climbing this "A3 beauty" as the team dubbed the pitch, became the crux of the route. 

    Nik Berry resting before the crux of the 5.14a pitch.In an e-mail to Rock and Ice, Berry describes this pitch as "very crimpy and technical climbing that required insane amounts of body tention and using horrible feet." Fixing lines from their portaledge to this crux pitch, he and Earle spent several days jugging up and then trying to decipher the cryptic crack. While resting, the climbers spent time "on the portaledge blasting music and trying to stay warm," says Berry. The erratic weather of the Wind Rivers created difficult climbing conditions, with sporadic thunderstorms slowing progress on the crux pitch. However, Berry eventually seized a brief weather window and managed to link the pitch, suggesting a grade of 5.14a. "Sending this pitch gave me more satisfaction than any pitch I have done before," says Berry. "After completing the pitch I also knew we would have a team send which felt terrific!" But the difficulties weren't over yet. The very next pitch was a seam that was difficult to protect. Earle took over the lead, free climbing the seam at 5.13a, using equalized bird beaks as protection. "They were good beaks, but being beaks it warrants an R rating," says Berry. 

    Mason Earle on the 5.13a pitch.After the 5.13a pitch, the team traversed into Shady Lady (VI 5.11 A4, Bradshaw-Dockery, 1978), an already existing free route located on the right side of Mt. Hooker's north face. The team freed the remaining climbing to the summit at 5.12 but "got way off route," says Berry. "We did still free it though, but for future ascents it would be more pleasant to follow the route."

    The team also returned to finish aiding Sendero Luminoso, which Berry suspects is a second ascent of the route. "I would be shocked if someone else had been up there with the state of the rusted out bolts," he says. "We were pretty sure that someone would have replaced them if they were up there since hauling off them was out of the question." Berry also mentions that the top pitches of Luminoso were definitely free climbable. "The top would not be more difficult than what we had already climbed, but it would have required more bolting and we did not have any time left," he says. Regardless, the team's new free-ascent link-up is now one of the most difficult alpine multi-pitch routes in North America. "We are going back next year to do it in a continuous ascent," says Berry. 

    Dave Allfrey sending the 5.12d third pitch.

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