Nico Favresse has claimed the first ascent of The Recovery Drink, which he considers to be the hardest crack climb he has ever redpointed. The route is a striking granite splitter located on the Profile wall in Jossingfjord, Norway.
Favresse first found the 115-foot overhanging crack last summer while on a trip to Norway with his brother Oliver Favresse and photographer Bernardo Gimenez. "When we got there our attention was immediately caught by a very impressive series of splitter cracks up the middle of the overhang," writes Favresse on Planetmountain.com. "Even though it looked way too futuristic, we were so motivated we decided to waste no time and check it out right away." Favresse spent the rest of trip trying the crack, however, after three weeks of battling rainy weather and thrashing his fingers on the sharp granite, he and his partners were forced to leave Norway empty handed.
But when winter eventually turned to spring, Favresse traveled back to Jossingfjord's Profile wall for round two on The Recovery Drink. "The weather remained as difficult as before, with lots of rain, strong winds and cold temperatures," writes Favresse on Planetmountain.com. "It took me another two weeks to finally complete it. It was an amazing feeling!" Favresse placed most of his gear on lead during his ascent, but he says he left a few pieces in place on the crack's easier sections to make it less difficult to clean after each attempt. "So a slightly purer ascent could still be done," he reports.
Favresse did not propose a grade for The Recovery Drink, however, he did comment on the route's difficulty by writing, "It's certainly one of the coolest lines I have ever climbed and the hardest crack I have ever redpointed!" Considering that Favresse made the second ascent of the infamous Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, Canada, in 2008; it is safe to assume that The Recovery Drink is solid 5.14.
Check out this video by Bernardo Gimenez of Favresse's early attempts on The Recovery Drink.
BD athletes Daniel Jung and Nico and Olivier Favresse climbing first ascents in Norway from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.