• Rock Climbing Training: How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Rock Climbing Training: Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Train for Compression
  • Rock Climbing Training: General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Dyno
  • Rock Climbing Training: Transitioning from the Gym to the Crag
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 8
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Steve House Climbing Training: The Training Effect
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Power Your Climbing With Whole Foods
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Climbing Training: Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Tsunami 5.12c (7b)
    Tsunami 5.12c (7b)

    Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique

    04-Feb-2010
    By

    I hate slabs! Any technique tips? —Jim Murdock, Little Rock, AK

    Avoid stepping too high or too wide to the largest available foothold. Instead, keep your feet within imaginary vertical tram-lines that are shoulder-width apart. Build your feet in small steps, using the smaller smears and dinks. Keep your hips over your feet, perpendicular to the pull of gravity, rather than bringing them in too close to the wall. If you lean in you will lose traction and restrict your vision. Don’t stand up too high on your toes or your shoe rubber will lift away from the rock and your feet may pop.

    In order to move your feet, shift your hips to one side, so that one foot is grounded, then lift and place the un-weighted foot. Use momentum on high steps and focus on getting your hips over your foot first, before attempting to stand up. Avoid reaching too high with your hands since this will lift the heels. Instead, consider using lower holds, or perhaps using your palms to mantel. In general, cruxes on slabs are overcome by moving the feet up, rather than focusing on finding handholds above.

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