Over the weekend, world class boulderer Paul Robinson put up a new V14 dubbed The Gallows in the east spur area of Hueco Tanks. The route is a low start to The Machinist (V13), established by Finland’s Nalle Hukkataival in 2009.
“The Machinist begins on a jug in the middle of this huge roof and climbs about 16 moves to the top of the boulder,” Robinson told Rock and Ice in an e-mail exchange. “It has an involved roof section and a crux lip encounter followed by a hard crimpy face at the top. The Gallows adds in about 10 moves into the start of The Machinist."
Robinson was introduced to the possibility of the low start to The Machinist by Hueco local Sam Davis and managed to send the problem after only four days of trying.
"The line begins with a big campus move followed by some upside down climbing in the roof and then finishes with a technical knee bar to gain the start of The Machinist," explains Robinson.
“The crux for me was really linking it all together and getting as much back at the knee bar rest as I could,” said Robinson, “It is long and involved and if you don't get enough back at the jug it is impossible to climb The Machinist pumped!”
Robinson is currently at his home-base in Boulder, Colorado, getting ready for the ABS Nationals, and after that he’s heading to Rocky Mountain National Park to attempt the second ascent of Hypnotized Minds