• Dan Mirsky Sends The Crew (5.14c) – Rifle, Colorado
  • Dave Graham Sends Thor's Hammer
  • David Lama Establishes Lebanon's Hardest Route
  • Free-Soloist Falls to Death in Flatirons
  • Marc-André Leclerc Free Solos Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
  • Q&A: The Willpower of Mar Álvarez
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle on Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • Tufas in Paradise – Angy Eiter Puts Up New 5.14s in Greece
  • Yosemite Facelift - Finding Beauty Behind the Trash
  • Novice Climbers Could Be Banned from Everest to “Maintain the Glory”
  • Daniel Woods Smashes Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • Sport Climbing Makes Shortlist for 2020 Tokyo Olympics
  • Kim, Škofic Climb the Podium in Puurs
  • Trail Runner Now Hiring
  • Schaeli, Jasper, Gietl Establish Odyssee (5.13c) on the Eiger
  • VIDEO: Brette Harrington - Free Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a)
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces 2015 Finalists
  • A Youth Wasted Climbing
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper – Youth World Championships Silver Medalist
  • Toru Nakajima Sends Paint It Black (V15) in RMNP
  • Everest ’96 – Unheard Voices of the 1996 Disaster
  • Paige Claassen Sends The Bleeding, Discusses First Female Ascents
  • Nalle Hukkataival Puts Up New V15 – The Stepping Stone
  • Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl Redpoint 1,400-foot Rätikon 5.14
  • Sachi Amma Redpoints Jungle Boogie, 5.15a
  • Bouldering Bub - Isaac Caldiero
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes New 5.14+ in the Fins
  • Alex Honnold Talks REEL ROCK 10
  • Climber Dies in Fall on Crestone Needle, CO
  • REEL ROCK 10 - Interview with Filmmaker Peter Mortimer
  • Marc-André Leclerc on Patagonian Climbing
  • She Goes! - Half Dome’s Regular Route Climbed After Rockfall
  • The Dawn of Urban Big Wall Speed Climbing
  • Climbing Beta: Rocktown, Georgia
  • Spotlight: Alexander Ruchkin - Russian Locomotive
  • Alpinists Killed Attempting New Route in Cordillera Blanca, Peru
  • Ondra Pioneers Four FA's in Norway
  • Tex Bossier, Golden Age Climber, Dies in France
  • Climbing Beta: El Potrero Chico, Mexico
  • Shiraishi, Garnbret Win Again at Arco Youth World Championships
  • Q&A: Carlo Traversi on Climbing the Eiger
  • Q&A: Sasha DiGiulian on Climbing the Eiger
  • Americans Claim Two Karakoram First Ascents
  • Scottish Team Climbs Paciencia on the Eiger North Face
  • VIDEO: How To Climb 5.14d and Hold A Job
  • Rocklands – How Far Are You
  • USA Girls Rise Up in Arco's IFSC Bouldering Youth and Junior World Championships
  • Seb Bouin Claims First Ascent in Verdon Gorge
  • Jakob Schubert Takes Third Ascent of Thor’s Hammer (5.15a)
  • Dave Graham Repeats Spray of Light (V15)
  • Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Climb the Eiger North Face
  • Stormed Out – Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Bail on Paciencia
  • Rappel Safer: How to Extend
  • Alex Megos Repeats Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbs La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Roskelleys Climb NE Buttress of Mount Slesse
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Amandla (V14)
  • Andy Kirkpatrick Solos Sea of Dreams on El Cap
  • Markovič, Supper Claim Gold in Stavanger
  • First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress of Mt. Waddington, B.C.
  • How To Make Your Own Clip Stick - Tips from Jonathan Siegrist
  • LIVE: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup Stavanger 2015 - FINALS
  • Sasha DiGiulian, Carlo Traversi Go for Eiger Summit Push Tomorrow
  • Jonathan Hörst, 12, Sends Two 5.14’s
  • Best New Climbing Gear of 2016
  • Stanhope, Segal Free Bugaboos' Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5.14
  • Chon, Noguchi Crowned 2015 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Shauna Coxsey, Alexey Rubtsov Win Final Bouldering WC of the Year
  • Jon Krakauer: Climbing Everest was the Biggest Mistake I've Ever Made
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich 2015
  • 82 and Done – Ueli Steck Completes Alps Mission in 61 Days
  • Lightning Halts Psicobloc, Jimmy Webb and Charlotte Durif Take Gold
  • Potrero Chico First Ascentionist “Magic” Ed Wright Dies
  • Jon Cardwell Snags Second Ascent of Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle
  • Mina Markovič, Romain Desgranges Win Lead World Cup, Imst, Austria
  • Staying Alive in the Death Sport Capital of the World
  • Eight Day Solo First Ascent of Bigwall Route on Mt. Huashan, China
  • Robert Pizem – Father First, Climber Second
  • British Team Makes First Ascent of The Mirror Wall, Greenland
  • Czech Up - Adam Ondra Climbs A Sparsely Bolted Sandstone Arête
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace Tips for Rock Climbers
  • New Route and Deaths on Annapurna - World's Deadliest Mountain
  • Adam Ondra Claims Second Ascent of Sharma’s Three Degrees of Separation (5.14d), Céüse
  • Julianne Wurm and Jan Hojer On Sending Spree in Silvretta, Austria
  • Homestead: Access Fund Saves 360 Acres of Climbing Access in Arizona
  • Alex Johnson - The Pro Life and Growing Up as a Climber
  • 32-Year-Old Dutch Mountaineer Dies in Fall on Mount Blanc Massif
  • MERU: Highly Anticipated Climbing Film Premieres August 14th
  • Jesse Huey, Brette Harrington Claim Second and Third Free Ascents of Edge of Pan (5.13 R), Squamish
  • Margo Hayes, 17, Sends Two Rifle 5.14s in One Day
  • Vikki Weldon Makes Fourth Free Ascent of Adder Crack (5.13 R)
  • Hukkataival, Woods Claim First and Second Ascents of Get Railed (V14)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • REEL ROCK 10 Film Tour Lineup
  • Jain Kim, Gautier Supper Win Gold in Briançon, France
  • Karoline Sinnhuber Sends First V13, Charity Boulder, Silvretta
  • Juliane Wurm Ditches Comp Climbing for Real Rocks
  • VIDEO: Sicilian Deep Water Soloing
  • Conrad Anker, David Lama Put Up New Route on Temple of Sinewava
  • Rock Climbing Saved My Life: A Veteran’s Struggle with PTSD
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Bellavista (5.14a, 500m)
  • ​The Edge of Extinction - First Ascent of Nanga Parbat's Mazeno Ridge
  • Daniel Woods V15 FA Spray of Light, Rocklands
  • Mina Markovič, Ramón Julián Puigblanque Win Lead World Cup, Chamonix, France
  • Seb Bouin Establishes 5.15a at Pic Saint-Loup
  • Ueli Steck Reaches Halfway Point on 82 Summits Project
  • Dave Graham Claims FA of Hatchet Prow (V14), Rocklands
  • UK/US Expedition Summits Unclimbed Himalayan Peak
  • MOVES - How Many Climbs Can You Identify From Just One Move?
  • Belay Ledge Disappears on Half Dome’s Regular Route
  • Jimmy Webb Makes Second Ascent of Livin Large (V15), Rocklands
  • Giorgia Tesio, 14, Makes First Female Ascent of Chay (5.13d)
  • Dimitri Vogt, 18, Sends Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Anthony Johnson Onsights Jihad - Third Ascent of “Terrifying” Vedauwoo Offwidth
  • Time-Lapse: Lightning Triggers Multiple Wildfires in Zion
  • Only Two Seats Left at the John Long Writing Symposium
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Monkey Wedding (V15)—Rocklands
  • Climbing Access Victory – Michigan’s AAA Walls Re-Opened
  • ​First World Cup Victory for Petra Klingler - Haiyang, China
  • Grampians: Best Bouldering in the World or Overrated?
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma’s Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Sean McColl, Akiyo Noguchi Win Bouldering World Cup, Chongqing, China
  • The Beatnik of the Alps: A tale of FA's, Rescues, Love, and Suicide
  • Ueli Steck, Michi Wohlleben: Eighty-two Summits in 80 days
  • Untouched Rock: Angie Eiter, Bernie Ruech Develop New Crag in Greece
  • Massive Rockfall in Yosemite's Tenaya Canyon
  • Hazel Findlay on Positivity, Being Bold and Staying Focused
  • Cameron Hörst, 14, Sends First 5.14b, Raubritter
  • Josh Ibbertson, 11, Sends Raindogs (5.13b)
  • Jonathan Siegrist: 5.14 First Ascent in the Flatirons, Colorado
  • Chris Sharma Free-Climbs California’s Redwoods
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of La Coccinelle Trump L'oeil (5.14), Verdon Gorge
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Hell'Avaro (5.14c/d)
  • For Sale: 10 Acres at Donner Summit
  • Roland Hemetzberger Repeats Ondra’s Fugu (5.14d)
  • Iranian Team Climbs First Ascent on Karambony Tower, Madagascar
  • Megan Mascarenas, Nathaniel Coleman on the Podium in Vail
  • Inside the Mind of Ethan Pringle – Climbing Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Sachi Amma - Second and Last Ascent of Tinipi (5.15a), Borneo Earthquake
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Jade (V14), Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13) after Vail WC
  • LIVE: 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail
  • Emily Harrington Sends Golden Gate (5.13) on El Capitan
  • GoPro Mountain Games Hosts Bouldering World Cup
  • VIDEO: Hazel Findlay - Giving El Cap's Pre-Muir (5.13+) a Try
  • Adam Ondra Sends White Noise (V14/15), Flashes Bear Toss (V13)
  • Austrian Alpinists Summit Unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska.
  • Mateusz Haladaj Sends Sharma’s Papichulo (9a+/5.15a)
  • Anna Stöhr and Alban Levier Take Gold in Toronto
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Toronto 2015
  • Twenty-two Year Old Dies in Rappelling Accident on El Cap
  • IFSC World Cup in Toronto May 30-31
  • Ramp Up Your Training with Fun
  • Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain
  • Bouldering Competition to be Held in Memory of Tito Traversa
  • Only Two Spots Left in the John Long Writing Symposium!
  • Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding
  • Vasya Vorotnikov, Claire Bresnan Claim Bouldering Titles at Riverrock
  • VIDEO: Tommy Caldwell Cruises Ice-Covered Crack
  • Kev Shields – High Solace: Demons, Depression and Solo Climbing
  • Siegrist Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d)–“Best climbing trip of my life”
  • Germans Win Big at European Bouldering Championships
  • VIDEO: Raw Power Vs Flawless Technique
  • Ethan Pringle Sends Jumbo Love (5.15b) – Hardest Sport Climb in America
  • Dean Potter Killed in Wingsuit Accident in Yosemite
  • Solo Climber Found Dead on Denali
  • LIVE STREAM: European Bouldering Championships 2015 – Semi-finals
  • VIDEO: Gord McArthur - The Man Behind the Machine
  • Logan Barber Frees The Firewall (5.13d)—Hardest Trad Line in China
  • Training Beta: How to Warm Up For Route Climbing
  • A Second Earthquake and A Shorter Everest
  • Sherpa Future Fund and Account of the April 25 Everest Avalanche
  • Dai Koyamada Sends Three-Year “Super Project”
  • Chris Sharma Onsights Snuff Movies (8c/5.14b), Catalonia, Spain
  • 2015 Ice Climbing Trip Report: Montana, Wyoming and Norway
  • Calling All Non-Sponsored Climbers
  • Melloblocco 2015: World's Largest International Bouldering Festival
  • Dean Potter Sets New Half Dome FKT
  • Indian Creek, Cedar Mesa Under Threat by Utah Legislature
  • Nepal Disaster Relief: How You Can Help
  • Dani Arnold Breaks Ueli Steck’s Speed Record on the Matterhorn
  • Big Men: 5.15a First Ascent by Iker Pou, Spain
  • A Summitless Year for Everest? North Side Closed, Retreat from the South
  • Training Beta: How to Make Yourself Try Hard
  • Q&A: Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, On Tijuanita (5.14a)
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Mecca Extension (5.14b) and What it Means to be a Climber
  • Climbing Accident: Earthquake, Avalanche, 21 Dead on Everest, Over 4,600 in Nepal
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, Climbs Her First 5.14b
  • VIDEO: Yvon Chouinard on the Today Show
  • VIDEO: Lynn Hill, Real Life Superhero
  • Angy Eiter Sends Era Vella (5.14d), Spain
  • Sufferfest: Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright on Nat Geo Live
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian on the Deep Bond Between Climbing Partners
  • Geyikbayiri Saved: Climbers Stop Mining Operation at Turkey’s Largest Crag
  • Pamela Pack Establishes 5.13 Offwidth, American Horror Story
  • Jacopo Larcher Gets Second Ascent of Helmutant (5.14d), Italy (With Video)
  • Carlo Traversi Bags Bad Girls Club (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • Training Beta: Mark and Mike Anderson’s Guide to Hangboard Training
  • Daniel Woods, Jon Cardwell Send Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Puccio Sends V10, V11 and V12 in One Day
  • Plane Crash Kills Climber Andy Tyson
  • Jakob Schubert Gets Second Ascent of Bügeleisen Sit, Austria’s First V15
  • 2015 Piolets d’Or Awards
  • Rub it Raw: Mike Anderson, Bryan Bird Free Five-Pitch 5.13 in Zion
  • Alex Megos Downunder
  • Vikki Weldon Sends Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a), Oliana, Spain
  • Q&A: Sonnie Trotter On Estado Critico (5.14d)
  • Roads, Bridges Washed Out At Red River Gorge
  • Kai Lightner Sends His First 5.14d, Era Vella, Spain
  • Sonnie Trotter Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque: Two 5.14d's and Two 5.15a's in Four Days
  • Matt Segal Bags 2nd Ascent of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
  • VIDEO: Dave MacLeod – Project Fear
  • VIDEO: Training with Adam Ondra
  • Climb Safe: Do Ropes Need to Rest Between Falls?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Dean Potter: When Dogs Fly
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper, 2015 SCS National Championship Runner-Up
  • Kai Lightner, Delaney Miller Win 2015 SCS National Championships
  • LIVE: 2015 SCS National Championships
  • Annapurna Claims Two More Lives
  • ​Carlo Traversi Sends Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Roland Wagner: A 21-Year Dream to Climb 5.14d (With Video)
  • Ashima Ticks Another Project in Spain
  • Alex Megos: Japan Sendathon
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Climb Safe: Daisy Chain Dangers
  • VIDEO: Ontario Climbing
  • Ethan Pringle Sends La Reina Mora (5.14d)
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Possible 5.15a
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Climber Falls to Death, Apparent Bolt Failure
  • Climb Safe: Can A Hot Belay Device Melt My Slings?
  • Golden Moment: Bill Ramsey Sends 5.14b at 54
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mason Earle Establishes New 5.14 Crack Climb
  • Wildfire Tears Through Cape Town Crags
  • Siberian Express: New 5.14c from Mark Anderson
  • PHOTO GALLERY: Canadian Ice: By John Price
  • Lead Singer of The Rebel Spell Dies in Climbing Accident
  • Ryan Vachon and Sarah Hueniken Crush Vail’s Hardest Mixed Lines
  • Caldwell, Honnold, Practice Your Speeches for the 2015 Piolets d’Or
  • Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • LIVE STREAM: Climbing Works International Festival 2015
  • PHOTO GALLERY: Women of Rock 3 in HD
  • Magic Woods
  • Alex Johnson: FA of The Swoop (V10), with Video
  • VIDEO: Teton Gravity: The Himalayas from 20,000 ft.
  • 2015 Rock and Ice Photo Camp Enrollment Now Open
  • First Free-Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a), Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia
  • Q&A: Ondra Sends Necessary Evil, Says Failures Are Reasons to Train
  • Pakistan to Train High-Altitude Police Unit to Protect Climbers
  • Marc-André Leclerc Solos Corkscrew on Cerro Torre
  • New Winter Route on the Troll Wall, Romsdal, Norway
  • New Paltz Climbing Gym Burns Down
  • Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
  • Kwon YoungHye Sends World's Hardest Mixed-Climbs In A Season
  • Everest: Reroute Through Khumbu Icefall for the 2015 Climbing Season
  • Sachi Amma Sends 5.15a on 4th Attempt, in Santa Linya, Spain
  • Griffin Whiteside Sends The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau
  • Royal Canadian Air Force Sgt. Missing After Ice Climbing Accident
  • Puccio and Woods Both Claim 9th ABS National Title
  • Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc Put Up New Routes in Patagonia
  • Papert Claims Second Ascent of M12 Scarefest
  • Sneak Peek: The Dawn Wall Issue Is On The Way!
  • Messner Capped the Hour at the AAC’s 2015 Annual Benefit Dinner
  • Sachi Amma Sends Sharma's Fight or Flight (5.15b) in Oliana, Spain
  • Climbing Guide Dies in Fall
  • VIDEO: Will Gadd Sends Niagara Falls
  • Will Gadd Climbs a Frozen Niagara Falls
  • SlabMaster: Klemen Bečan Onsights 5.14c in Spain (With Video)
  • The Quinfecta: Classic San Juan Colorado Ice Climb Link-up
  • Alex Megos Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Cranks First Ascent of Kintsugi (V15)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.14d Project in New Mexico
  • The Grand Experience: Superbowl XLIX to Host Rock Climbing Wall
  • Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson Appear on The Ellen DeGeneres Show
  • Oregon Climber Killed in Fall
  • Climbing Film "Meru" Makes it into the Sundance Film Festival
  • Acclaimed Cellist Ben Sollee Raises Money for Red River Gorge
  • Q&A: Jason Kehl Proves that Hueco Tanks Is Far From Climbed Out
  • Daniel Woods Sends The Process-Possible V16
  • Robert Craig, K2 Survivor, Author and Educator, Dies
  • The Dawn Wall Goes Down!
  • The Film "Valley Uprising" is Now Available Here
  • Guidebook Worth its Weight in Gold, Selling for $1,000
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Catches Caldwell, Final Push Begins
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Dyno, Two Pitches Away from Wino Tower
  • Gadd Wins Ouray, Again
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Pitch 15!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Last 5.14 Pitch!
  • Sasha DiGiulian to Compete in Ouray Ice Fest
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Pitch 16!
  • Sam Elias Reports on New Routes in Lebanon
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell and Jorgeson Both Send Crux Pitch!
  • Caldwell and Jorgeson are Charging Up The Dawn Wall
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs V12 in Bishop
  • Toni Lamprecht Establishes Black Flag (5.14c/d)
  • Video: Niky Ceria Bouldering in Albarracin, Spain Before the Chalk Ban
  • Desert Climbing Legend Eric Bjornstad Has Died
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Chromosome Y (5.14d)
  • TNB: The Story Behind the Craziest of Rescues
  • Broken Rules and Broken Problems in Red Rock, Nevada
  • Will Mayo Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M13) and Establishes Mustang (M14)
  • Jeff Mercier Onsights D13
  • Climbing Saves At-Risk Youth in Mexico
  • Ascent, Now Accepting Stories
  • Jimmy Webb Takes Down Defying Gravity (V15)
  • Climber Dies From Fall in the Gunks
  • Tommy Caldwell Sends Last Hard Pitch on the Dawn Wall
  • Ondra Takes First in Lead World Cup
  • Honnold Frees El Cap's Muir Wall (5.13b/c) in 12 Hours with No Falls
  • Clif Bar's Response: A Letter to the Climbing Community
  • Delaney Miller Jumps From V7 to V11
  • Drew Ruana, 15, Sends an American Classic - Just Do It (5.14c)
  • Alex Megos Sends Mandala Sit Start (V13/14)
  • Dave Pegg, King of Rifle, Has Died
  • Honnold, Potter, and Others Fired by Clif Bar for Soloing
  • Jorg Verhoeven Free Climbs the Nose (5.14) on El Cap
  • Jakob Schubert Wastes No Time in Magic Wood
  • Jimmy Webb Makes First Ascent of Wyoming’s Multiverse (V14)
  • New Outhouse in Indian Creek in Honor of Black Diamond Engineer
  • Gear Review: Mammut Realization Shorts
  • Another New Speed Record on the Nose for Sauter and Smith-Gobat
  • Gabriele Moroni Finishes Three-Year Project—Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Martin Stranik Repeats Practice of the Wild (V15)
  • Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat Break El Cap Speed Record
  • Nina Caprez Sends 5.14b at a New Crag in Turkey
  • Ondra and Kim Back on Top at Inzai World Cup
  • Marieta Akalski Cranks in Spain, Sends Florida (5.14b)
  • Vandalism Across National Parks
  • Sonnie Trotter Establishes His Hardest Trad Climb - Family Man (5.14b)
  • Climber Dies in Fall at Zion National Park
  • Pete Whittaker Flashes Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • Déjà Vu for Women, Ghisolfi Gets First Gold
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Sends Mecca Extension (5.14b)
  • J-Star is Livin' Astro (5.14c)
  • Alex Huber Establishes 10-Pitch Alpine 5.14b
  • Bouldering in Namibia
  • Hukkataival Puts Up "One of the Best Boulders" He's Ever Climbed
  • Surprise in Korea: Ondra Out of Finals, Nice Wins for Schubert and Markovic
  • Scott Cosgrove Gravely Injured
  • Updated! Back-to-Back Strong Sends for Angela Eiter
  • DiGiulian and Marin Send 1,000-Foot 5.14 in Sardinia
  • Fabian Buhl Expands Repertoire With Six-Pitch Silbergeier (5.14a)
  • New Four-Pitch Mixed Testpiece in Utah
  • Katharina Saurwein Becomes Third Woman to Send Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • VIDEO: Mark Heal Makes FA of Holy Rails Sit (V13) in Tuolumne
  • Two V14s in a Day for Dave Graham
  • Oakdale Climbers Festival Themed "A Woman's Reach"
  • Avalanche Kills Two On 8,000m Himalayan Peak
  • Fred Nicole Sends The Escapist (V14)
  • Canadian Crusher Marieta Akalski Storms Rifle, Sends Her First 5.14a
  • The Naked Edge Done in 26 Minutes, See Video Clip
  • Mountain Guide Latest IS Victim
  • Daniel Woods Bags First Ascent at 14,000 Feet
  • VIDEO: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein Rip It Up in RMNP
  • Lee Sheftel Climbs 5.13b at 68 Years Old
  • Alex Puccio Sends Her Second V14, Wheel of Chaos
  • Brette Harrington Makes Second Female Ascent of the Trad Route Shadow (5.13a)
  • Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle Climb New Route in Yosemite
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Wheel of Chaos (V14) In A Day
  • VIDEO: The Psychology of Climbing Champion Ramón Julián
  • World Cup Climber Sean McColl Dominates American Ninja Warrior
  • Jonathan Siegrist Develops Hard Routes in Idaho
  • Alex Megos Sends His Longest Project Yet—Geocache
  • Climber Dies From Fall On Mount Garfield, Washington
  • Q&A: Yuji Hirayama Wants More UK Trad
  • VIDEO: Inside the Mind of a Free Soloist - Tom Randall Goes Ropeless
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends V15 Project in Australia
  • James Pearson Flashes Something’s Burning (5.13d X) in Wales
  • Yuji Hirayama Sends 5.13+ R Trad Testpiece
  • Chris Bonington, 80, Sends Old Man of Hoy for his Birthday
  • Alex Puccio's Outdoor Climbing Pays Off At Arco
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Speed Intégrale (5.14d)
  • Ondra Dominates Bouldering Championships, Puccio Takes Silver
  • Alex Honnold Talks About the Risk of Free Soloing
  • Climber Dies in Tuolumne Meadows
  • Alex Puccio Climbs The Automator (V13)
  • Urs Moosmuller Climbs Fathers Day (5.14a) on Gear
  • Q&A: Beat Kammerlander Still Runs It Out
  • Buhrfeind and McColl Win 2014 Psicobloc Masters
  • Famed Utah Tower Falls
  • Angie Payne Gets Freaky with Her Second V13
  • Alex Puccio Sends Jade (V14)
  • Nina Caprez Redpoints All Pitches on Orbayu (5.14b)
  • First All-Female Nepalese Team Summits K2
  • Interview: Alex Megos Climbs Slow, But Sends Fast
  • VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero Claims His 2nd V14
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Respected Climber Falls 50 Feet and Dies at Cathedral Ledge
  • Coxsey and Caballero Climb V14
  • Ashima Shiraishi, 13, Becomes Second Female to Climb V14
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Baa Baa Black Sheep (5.14b/c)
  • Alex Puccio Sends Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder Climbs Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in a Downpour
  • Q&A: Sam Elias and Mike Kerzhner Fire 3rd Ascent of El Cap's PreMuir (5.13+)
  • Austin Siadak Solos Evolution Traverse in a Day
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees Multi-Pitch 5.14a in Zillertal, Austria
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero flashes his first V11 in South Africa
  • Kyle Vassilopoulos Establishes 130-Foot 5.14 at Wolf Point
  • Hukkataival Climbs Alpine Sport Testpiece Sibergeier (5.14a)
  • Chattanooga's Take on Buildering
  • Alex Megos Frees 20-Pitch 5.14b in Switzerland
  • Trotter, Caldwell, Wharton Put Up Six-Pitch Route in Sicily
  • Jes Meiris Beats Female Solo Speed Record of the Nose by 4 Days
  • Eitan Green, 28, Remembered
  • Kilian Jornet Smashes Speed Record on Denali
  • 7-Up: Honnold and Allfrey Climb 7 El Cap Routes in 7 Days
  • How To Be a Xena of Rock Climbing
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    Video Spotlight
    Death Wish Second Ascent
    Death Wish Second Ascent

    Perfect Play: What It Took to Climb La Dura Dura (5.15c)--The World's Hardest Route


    Sharma working the boulder crux on <em>La Dura Dura</em>. This photo was taken in 2009, right after he bolted it. Photo by <a target="_blank" href="http://www.boonespeed.com/">Boone Speed</a>.At the tail end of last winter, two of the world’s best rock climbers were tangling with a route that both considered a new, if incremental, step forward in difficulty—La Dura Dura: the hardest of the hard.

    Chris Sharma, 31, the freakishly strong American who climbed the world’s first 5.15a and 5.15b, had bolted the route at Oliana, a radically overhanging limestone cliff in Spain spattered with features barely big enough to grab. After getting the bolts in and working out the sequences, Sharma could do every move on the route. The moves were so severe, however, he eventually concluded that linking them all would be impossible for him, but might be a great project for the next generation.

    When Adam Ondra arrived in Oliana in 2011, the then 19-year-old Czech prodigy was on a tear, onsighting 5.14c’s by the handful. Sharma was struck by Ondra’s fierce passion and tremendous talent and introduced the youngster to La Dura Dura, saying, “Hey, if you’re looking for that next level route, I think I have something for you.”

    Thus began Ondra’s biggest and longest campaign to redpoint a single route. Over the next year and a half—taking nine weeks of effort spread over five different trips—Ondra battled with La Dura Dura. Sharma joined him on it, at first to share beta and just have fun working on a route with someone. Soon both climbers were earnestly training and gunning for the first ascent. Suddenly, these two exemplars of different styles and different generations were in a race to redefine the possible, and by extension, to claim the title of world’s best.


    La Dura Dura took on its first faint rendering within Chris Sharma’s mind some five years ago as he realized that something in his life needed to change.

    In 2008, at 27 years old, Sharma had just sent Jumbo Love, establishing the first rock climb rated 5.15b. By most accounts, he was the best climber of his generation, something he had been told all his adult life.

    The hype had always made him cautious, and after sending Jumbo Love he realized why. Sharma had been climbing for 15 years and, thus far, he hadn’t really had to try very hard to be the best.

    “Up until that point, in a lot of ways, I’d been just riding on my talent,” he says. “I thought: ‘OK, enough of this. Let’s see what happens if I really dedicate myself to sport climbing. Let’s see how far I can push it, if I give everything to it.’”

    “One of the hardest things is having that vision—seeing something that has never been done,” says Sharma. “Once you see it and you do it, you’re like, ‘OK, maybe there’s room for something harder.’”After he’d climbed the world’s first 5.15a and 5.15b, his next step was obvious. 5.15c. But what does 5.15c even look like? Where is it? How do you begin?

    Both Realization and Jumbo Love were OPP: Other People’s Projects, abandoned and given to Sharma as gifts. After ticking those two routes, Sharma faced a world without pre-bolted next-level king lines. If he wanted to take the next step, he’d have to create it.

    “That’s the thing about being on the cutting edge. You have to invent it,” he says.

    He could have chosen virtually any place in the world to begin that work, but Sharma picked Spain for its concentration of steep limestone. Then the process of discovery, both external and internal, began.

    Chris Sharma was born in 1981 in Santa Cruz, California, where he started climbing in a local gym—one of the first in the country—when he was 12. Along with Tommy Caldwell, Katie Brown, Beth Rodden and others, Sharma was one of the sport’s first child prodigies. He was winning national adult competitions by the time he was 14, and by the next year he easily climbed every undone route at the Hood in Mount Charleston, including Hasta La Vista (5.14b/c), within a week; also Just Do It (5.14c) at Smith Rock; and in a two-day blitz through Rifle, a one-day ascent of Lung Fish (5.14a/b) and, the next day, an FA of Zulu (5.14a). A little-known footnote to that Rifle trip was the fact that Sharma sent Lungfish on his 20th attempt—a harbinger of the stamina that would later serve him so well.

    In the mid 1990s, Boone Speed was the top sport climber in America, the first to climb 5.14b. When Sharma tore through the Western U.S., Speed was focusing his attention on the Virgin River Gorge, trying a project called Necessary Evil (5.14c). With barely-there crimps and sustained V10 sequences, Necessary Evil would be the hardest climb in the U.S.—if someone ever did it. Speed showed the 15-year-old Sharma the project and in Necessary Evil Sharma finally found something to sink his teeth into.
    “That was the first time climbing got hard for me,” says Sharma. “I was like, ‘OK, this is awesome!’”

    What Sharma discovered was the way difficult sport climbing can completely order your life and give you a sense of purpose and meaning. Speed was one of Sharma’s first mentors and he shared all that he’d learned in terms of surviving the mental maze that redpointing a hard sport climb demands.

    “Boone’s vision gave me the head start I needed,” says Sharma.
    This shot was taken during the actual redpoint of <em>La Dura Dura</em>. Four days prior, Sharma fell at this exact spot when his foot slipped. Photo by <a target="_blank" href="http://www.boonespeed.com/">Boone Speed</a>. Doing Necessary Evil was a confidence boost for Sharma, and a catalyst for the ensuing 15-year journey that would drive him inexorably toward La Dura Dura

    “One of the hardest things is having that vision—seeing something that has never been done,” says Sharma. “Once you see it and you do it, you’re like, ‘OK, maybe there’s room for something harder.’”

    In Spain, Sharma sought the route that would change him more than any other.

    “A lot of people have this desire to do something, but they often don’t know what it is that they want to do,” he says. “I wanted to push myself to the next level. Where is that? I had to discover it. That was a big process in itself. So I bolted all these routes. And a lot of them ended up being that next level.”

    Before Spain, Sharma had only done one 5.15b; he’d need to climb at least a few more before he could realistically understand what 5.15c might feel like. So he bolted and climbed Golpe de Estado, Neanderthal and Catxasa—all of them taking many months. But Sharma wasn’t just trying to find something he could rate 5.15c. The trip was more about searching for that one scary monster and desperate battle that would give him a sense of purpose.

    “I climbed at Santa Linya, Margalef, Siurana, but none of those places had the potential I was really looking for. Then I went to Oliana, and I was like, ‘Wow, this place is sick!’”

    In the last five years, thanks almost single-handedly to Sharma’s new-routing efforts, Oliana has become to sport climbing what Mavericks is to surfing: a place for the biggest names in the sport to come and prove themselves. Today this single wall contains more 5.14+ and 5.15s than all of North America combined.

    In the last five years, thanks almost single-handedly to Sharma’s new-routing efforts, Oliana has become to sport climbing what Mavericks is to surfing: a place for the biggest names in the sport to come and prove themselves.Oliana was virtually untouched when Sharma arrived. He bolted the two most obvious lines: Pachamama and Papichulo, both clocking in at 5.15a. Then, drawn to La Dura Dura’s aesthetic quality—a beautiful, if blank-looking, streak of blue and white stone—he bolted it next. “That’s what I’ve always looked for in rock climbs,” he says. “Not just a physical challenge, but something beautiful to look at and climb.”

    When Sharma tried the moves on La Dura Dura, he was almost horrified by the difficulty.

    “I didn’t think La Dura Dura was for me,” he says. “I did all the moves on it. That’s the requisite for knowing it’s a climb, right? But each move seemed so ridiculously hard that I couldn’t ever imagine doing them consecutively. I never saw myself being able to climb it.”

    Adam Ondra started climbing at age 6, and by the time he was 13 years old he’d already done a 5.14d. Since then, he has more or less repeated every hard route in the world—easily.

    Having already decided the route wasn’t possible for him, Sharma suggested to Ondra that he give La Dura Dura a try. Then, just by watching Ondra making links, Sharma got psyched.

    “It was a really positive experience, a really friendly atmosphere. We could both learn so much from each other,” says Ondra. “You know, it’s much more fun to try a hard route with someone else, isn’t it?! When working the route alone, you often stick to your own beta, unwilling to change. But when you’re working on a climb with another person, sometimes the other person has an idea to make things a tiny bit easier. This change doesn’t even have to work for him, but perhaps it works for you. And this tiny little thing can mean a lot if you arrive at the crux just a little bit more fresh.”

    Sharma knew it was only natural that one day there would be better climbers doing much harder routes. Of all the young up-and-coming climbers, though, Ondra was leading the pack by a large margin.

    After working on the Dura Dura project for a few weeks in the spring of 2012, Ondra left Spain and spent his summer in the enormous Flatanger cave in coastal Norway. After five weeks there, he claimed the first ascent of Change, a 180-foot roof and the world’s first 5.15c.
    5.15c had been established … surprisingly, not by Sharma. But instead of being jealous, Sharma says he felt like a burden had been lifted. He didn’t have to be the one pushing the world standard anymore. Ondra had arrived.

    Then a couple of interesting things happened. 
    Adam Ondra gunning for the FA of the hardest route in the world. By sending <em>La Dura Dura</em>, Ondra taught Sharma how to try harder. Photo by <a target="_blank" href="http://www.bernardogimenez.com/">Bernardo Gimenez</a>. First, Ondra decided that La Dura Dura was actually harder than Change. Maybe not 5.15d, but certainly upper-end 5.15c. Change took Ondra only five weeks of work and he had already spent at least that long trying La Dura Dura, yet the first ascent still felt elusive.
    Sharma thought Ondra was probably right. “He knows more about hard routes than anybody,” he says. “He’s repeated all the hardest routes in the world, so he has more perspective than anyone.”

    Second, Sharma started climbing really well on La Dura Dura. On certain days, he was making even better links than Ondra, and suddenly it looked like Sharma might get the first ascent, and regain his stature as world’s best.

    “At the beginning I just surrendered to the fact that Adam is the future—he’s arrived, I’m on my way out and it’s all good. It’s the natural order of things,” says Sharma. “When I started actually doing well on it, I realized that I might be able to do it. And then, yeah, all those thoughts crept in. Maybe I can do this first and hold onto my ‘title,’ or whatever. That definitely crossed my mind.

    “I realized I had something to gain, and something to lose. That’s when I started wondering, ‘Why do I really want to do this route?’ Is it because I want to hold onto that title and image? Or is it just because I like climbing and this is what I want to be doing?”

    February 8, 2013, was Ondra’s second day on. He and Sharma had climbed together the day before, and he had gotten a high point, falling only when he got nervous.
    “That next morning I felt sore; my forearms felt tired,” says Ondra. “Chris sent me a text message saying that he wouldn’t come and that he was going to take a rest day. I thought maybe I’d do the same.”

    “At the beginning I just surrendered to the fact that Adam is the future—he’s arrived, I’m on my way out and it’s all good. It’s the natural order of things,” says Sharma. “When I started actually doing well on it, I realized that I might be able to do it." Despite feeling fatigued, Ondra decided he’d just give it a go, not expecting much from himself.
    “When I set off I felt significantly weaker than the day before. I barely made it through the first part. Somehow I miraculously didn’t fall off those terrible two moves that had tested me so much in the past and I managed to reach the jug. I really don’t know how! As I did, I felt my heart skip a beat. I was at the rest. It was really hard to calm down, recover well and get ready for the final 5.13d section.”
    Ondra had reached this jug once before, and had fallen on the final stretch—a level of difficulty he routinely onsights. But on this day—after nine weeks of effort on the route and specific training on the campus board—he paused, composed himself and climbed to the top.
    How is it possible that Ondra, on a day he felt tired and “significantly weaker” than before, managed to do the hardest route in the world?

    “My mind was empty, I had no worries and no doubts,” he says. “Perhaps this did the trick.”

    “There’s this Buddhist text about rejoicing in the success of others and being selfless,” says Sharma. “For me this was an opportunity to practice that. Really, it was the only option if I wanted to be happy. Embrace all those negative emotions and then let them go. And by letting go of my image, and being genuinely happy for Adam, I found that that gave me so much strength.”

    Strangely, Sharma suddenly found himself more psyched than ever to climb La Dura Dura. He was just a few months away from his 32nd birthday and he began viewing the route as a symbolic doorway leading him to a new phase in life. The route wasn’t just another tick; it was a culmination of a five-year period of pushing the limits of sport climbing and he felt like he needed to do La Dura Dura before he could ever move on.

    “Adam totally lit a fire under my butt,” says Sharma. “He made me realize that I probably wasn’t trying hard enough either. When there’s no one around to push you, it’s hard to push yourself that extra bit.”

    Just as Boone Speed had mentored Sharma all those years ago, Sharma was now sharing his routes and knowledge with Ondra. In return, through his talent and perseverance, Ondra was teaching Sharma how to progress.

    “Here was this 19-year-old kid, working his ass off,” says Sharma. “Look how hard he’s trying! I should be trying at least as hard as he is if I want to be doing this. In that sense, there really wasn’t much shame in not doing it first. Look who I’m climbing with.”

    Sharma had already missed a couple of opportunities to send the pitch. In December of 2012, he had come really close—falling going to the jug at the end of the second crux. But then his fitness had peaked and the opportunity seemingly passed. He started falling lower and lower.
    Oliana. This single wall has more 5.14+ and 5.15 climbs than all of North America combined. Sharma is largely responsible for its development and popularity. Photo by <a target="_blank" href="http://www.boonespeed.com/">Boone Speed</a> “At a certain point, I was like, ‘Damn, it might not happen this year,’” says Sharma. “This route always felt just so far beyond my limit. I realized that I am either going to catch one of these windows of opportunity, or I’m going to have to raise my limit to where this route was below it. And that’s kinda what happened.”

    In the wake of Ondra’s first ascent, Sharma discovered a motivation he never knew he possessed. He trained on his home climbing wall; did sets on a campus board; ate well, slept well, rested well. Yet at the same time, he remained unsure that he would ever actually send. “I had to change,” says Sharma. “I had to really hone in. I couldn’t be just the free-flowing spontaneous guy. I had to be disciplined, to focus and prioritize my life for what I really wanted.”

    Sport climbing is not like other sports, where games or races are scheduled, and you can train to reach your peak on a certain day. In climbing, any day could be your day so long as conditions, skin, psych, strength and the right mental state align.

    “There were so many times I went to the crag and didn’t do it,” says Sharma. “It became this normal thing. Well, how do you keep finding satisfaction in that? I began to think of going climbing as a routine. It wasn’t some big important thing. Rather I treated it like I was just going for a run, or doing a daily yoga practice. Climbing is my routine. Go to the cliff, give 100 percent, and whatever happens happens. I was just satisfied that I got to go climbing.”

    In March, Sharma started getting close to the redpoint again. He was climbing up to his previous high point and the window of opportunity was opening. One day he climbed through the most difficult moves and didn’t even feel tired. He told himself, ‘OK, this is my time to do it.’ Then his foot slipped.

    “The next time I went back,” says Sharma, “I felt that pressure. I knew I could do it. This should be my day.” But he fell on the first big dyno move.

    He found himself sitting at the base, thinking about missing yet another opportunity. He wasn’t sure when he’d be able to climb next. The heat of summer was just around the corner. If he didn’t send the route that day, would he have to wait until next December for it to cool down enough for serious redpointing efforts? By then he’d be older, maybe heavier. The possibility existed that he might never do it.

    Sharma touches down after redpointing <em>La Dura Dura</em> on March 23, 2013. Photo by <a target="_blank" href="http://www.boonespeed.com/">Boone Speed</a>On March 23, Sharma tied in for the day’s first redpoint burn, but fell at the first crux. This time his thoughts turned to something a Brazilian climber had told him on the way to the cliff that day.

    “He said, ‘Go out there to play, but play perfectly.’ That was the mentality. Play. Have fun. But play perfectly. It got me back into that mindset of going out to do my yoga practice, my ritual, my daily exercise just to feel good. That’s why I climb.”

    Sharma tied in and thought, play perfectly. It was just him and his friends, including one of his first mentors, Boone Speed. He was simply happy to be out climbing and spending a day playing in the vertical with his friends.

    “That was a trippy thing. I just forgot about the goal. I was just using this time on the route as my training. Not training for something. Just training to be a master of your own body, a master of yourself.”

    Ten short, transcendent minutes later, he found himself at the top of La Dura Dura.
    “Maybe you’ll never be at your limit—you’ll always be climbing a little bit below it. But when I did it, that day I felt certain that I was capable of doing something harder.”

    Andrew Bisharat is editor at large for Rock and Ice.

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