• Reinhold Messner: What I've Learned
  • Listening for the Echo: The Klem Loskot Profile
  • Layton Kor Dies
  • Climbers We Lost In 2012
  • Life on Hold: The Ian Powell Story
  • Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
  • Mike Foley: Never Enough
  • Hayden Kennedy: Superballistic
  • Naomi Guy: What I've Learned
  • Dave Macleod: What I've Learned
  • Thomas Bubendorfer: Eiger Legend Back in the Game
  • Q&A: V15 Maestro Nacho Sanchez Unleashed
  • Francesca Metcalf: Meant to Compete
  • Maurice Herzog Dies
  • Kurt Albert: Free Wheel
  • Mason Earle: Crack Ropegun
  • Mayan Smith-Gobat: Climber for all Seasons
  • John Long: What I've Learned
  • Nik Berry: Obsessive Crusher
  • TNB: Tony Scott, Climber, Movie Maker, Lived and Died Large
  • Who's Next?
  • Todd Skinner: The Renegade
  • Tom Patey: The Tiger of Yesterday
  • Patxi Usobiaga: The Bionic Man
  • Michael Reardon
  • Max Turgeon and Louis-Philippe Ménard: Alpinists and Ice Climbers
  • Kurt Albert: The Climber Who Invented Redpointing
  • Josh Wharton: The Alpinist
  • John Rosholt: Climber and Gambler Disappears in Las Vegas
  • The Stonemasters Climb at Pirates Cove
  • John Bachar's Last Interview
  • John Bachar Remembers Michael Reardon
  • John Bachar by Henry Barber
  • John Bachar Remembered by Duane Raleigh
  • John Bachar by Doug Robinson
  • John Bachar and the Bachar-Yerian First Ascent
  • Colin Kirkus: Climbing's Greatest Unknown
  • Alex Puccio
  • John Long: A Man for All Seasons
  • Galen Rowell: The Vertical World
  • The Prophet
  • The Guy Whose Nuts Revolutionized Climbing: R.P.
  • Randy Leavitt
  • Brian Kim Spotlight
  • Rob Raker
  • Ueli Steck
  • Kemple and Lindner Almost Free El Nino
  • Crack Attack
  • Climbing World Mourns Todd Skinner
  • Ammon McKneely
  • A Tour of Magic and Mystery
  • Tanja Grmovsek
  • Rob Miller
  • Climber Hugh Herr Honored by Esquire Magazine
  • Climber Eric Brand Dies
  • Chuck Fryberger, Climber and Filmmaker
  • Chris Schulte Profile
  • Beth Rodden
  • Joe Kinder
  • Hazel Findlay
  • To the BASE Layer
  • Pete Ward
  • Mad Max
  • Chris Boskoff
  • Bradford Washburn
  • Revenge of the Nerd
  • Chris Lindner
  • Renan Ozturk
  • One-Track Mind
  • Tim Clifford: Escaping the Quantum Hole
  • Traveling Light
  • Colette McInerney
  • The Banner Years
  • Pakistan: The Big and Free
  • MAD DASH
  • Kris Hampton
  • KEEPING THE FAITH
  • Jules Cho
  • Extreme Eleven and Beyond
  • Bob Bates, 96, Takes His Final Journey
  • Jody Hansen
  • Home Girl
  • An Encounter with Fred
  • The Average Hero Sir Edmund Hillary, 88
  • More Than One Trick
  • Dave Graham
  • Red River Sugar Mama
  • Phillip Schaal
  • An Advanced Beginner
  • The Last Samurai:
  • THE BERMANATOR
  • Sonnie in Scotland
  • Offwidth Hombre
  • Moonlight Solo-Nata
  • Jasmin Caton
  • Crag Clown
  • Unlikely Candidate
  • Lone Star
  • The Calculator: Alex Kordick
  • Rise of the Machines
  • Dave Waggoner 1955-2009
  • Blood Spider
  • The Original Desert Rat: Kyle Copeland | 51
  • J-Star
  • Italian Legend: Lino lacedelli | 83
  • Cold Justice Paul Cormier
  • The Suffer King
  • The Need for Speed
  • Nick Martino Gives All
  • G-Money
  • Climbing Out of Academic Trouble
  • Charles Houston, 96
  • Bobby Model, 36
  • "Open Bivy" Willy
  • To the Rescue
  • The Genius
  • The Gamer
  • Shock Rock
  • Ryan Triplett | 31
  • John Bachar and the Cosmic Surfboard
  • Hand Crafted
  • Return of the Verm
  • Amped
  • Regime Change
  • Man vs. Snake
  • Living Legend
  • Layton Kor honored by AAC
  • Cold Justice
  • Cowboy Anguish
  • The Rock Jester
  • Mixed Rehab
  • Laura Fletcher
  • Bill Stall
  • Benjamin Strohmeier
  • Joe Six-Pack
  • Freedom Path
  • Manboy
  • Up and Down
  • The Duelist
  • A for Achiever
  • Paul A. Duval
  • Kelly S. Bell
  • Close But No Cigar
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    A Little Bit of Gunks: Some Bouldering Classics
    A Little Bit of Gunks: Some Bouldering Classics

    Pete Ward

    01-Jul-2010
    By

    KemplesCorner.159

    Pete Ward is big—not only ’cause he towers at a top-out height, but because he’s one of the best setters in the country. Ward was around to see the bouldering boom hit the Gunks, and later, the entire Northeast. He is the brainchild behind this year’s biggest competition, the Mammut-EMS Bouldering Championships, a three-series event filled with cash prizes as big as the parties.

     

    SOME PEOPLE SAY THAT CLIMBING HARD IS ALL ABOUT TRAINING HARD. DO YOU AGREE, OR IS IT ALL ABOUT YOUR GENES?

    All of the above. My genes are good for basketball and drinking a lot, so I train hard.

     

    TELL ME ABOUT THE FIRST TIME YOU WENT BOULDERING.

    1994, Hueco Tanks. I went there to do routes, stayed a month and did four roped climbs. Then I forgot about sport climbing until last fall (turns out it’s quite fun). It’s amazing to me how Hueco has shaped the entire industry and our vision of what climbing is.   

     

    HOW DO YOU MEAN?

    Prior to Hueco becoming the Camp 4 of the 1990s, climbing was never going to be as accessible to the mainstream as it is now. Who can be bothered with gear, and the need for knowledge of rope work, and the chance of killing yourself if you fuck up, when you can just grab some shoes and a chalkbag and head to the gym? In my opinion, for better and worse, Hueco brought us bouldering and bouldering brought us where we are today.

     

    YOU WERE A RANGER IN THE GUNKS – DID YOU PICK UP MAD LADIES AND HOOK UP ON THE HIGH E LEDGE?

    I was 19. What do you think?

     

    WHAT WAS IT LIKE LIVING WITH IVAN GREENE BACK IN THE DAY?

    It was a lot like Ivan’s life now: parties, models, living like rock stars. Except that there was none of that and we lived with his mom at her house. Seriously, though, Ivan takes a lot of shit for being who he is. And all I can say is that at a point in my life when I really needed help, he was there for me. Can you ask for more?

    ==

    WHAT DID YOU NEED HELP WITH?

    Bad relationships, no money and no place to live. Ivan, and his mom hooked me up over the course of two years.

     

    DESCRIBE THE FUTURE OF COMPS IN THREE WORDS.

    Deep Water Soloing. Three more words: We’re on it.

     

    YOU HAVE PLANS FOR A DWS COMP? TELL ME MORE.

    Getting a venue pimped out to do it justice takes time and money. Our vision for a DWS venue isn’t something that exists currently and with something as amazing as a DWS comp, we feel compelled to get it right on the first go. Don’t look for it tomorrow, but it’s gonna own.

     

    What’s the worst thing to happen to American rock climbing?

    I’m not the kind of guy who paints with that kind of broad black-and-white brush. As much as we all want easy answers to every question, fact is, life is made up of shades of gray. The challenge is figuring out what shades we’re willing to accept. There are plenty of things I hate about climbing in America: I hate climbers who lose perspective on the importance of what we’re doing. C’mon, it’s just rock climbing. I hate chipping, spraylords and everything that everyone else hates.

    But I also understand that great climbers have chipped routes, and that the line between spray and legit news is a fine line. For me, the bottom line is that I’ve chosen to make my living in this industry because I find that there are more people of integrity in climbing than elsewhere, and that’s what matters.

     

    What is your biggest fear?

    Failing the people/sponsors/friends/family who count on me.

     

    What is your biggest disappointment in life?

    Don’t have a Gold record yet. You play the drums at all?

    ==

    Why should everyone go to the Mammut-EMS Bouldering Championships, in five words?
    Sorry, dude, it’s gotta be in Haiku:
    Mammut-EMS
    Bouldering Championships
    Rock the house, baby

     

    Who takes the coolest climbing photos?

    Well, if you’re saying you’re not core anymore … Then, I guess Greg Epperson.

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    Hello