Price | $39.95, www.petzl.com, 5 stars
TWO GATES for the price of one! Finally, I don’t feel ripped off ... nor do I feel insecure lowering a climber much heavier than I am, or myself on a single line. The Petzl Freino, a three-ounce auto-locking belay biner that really works best with a Grigri, is outfitted with an “integral braking spur” on its spine. Belay as usual with a Grigri clipped to the main biner. When it’s time to lower, clip the brake side of the rope through the wire gate. This redirects the brake end of the rope, adding friction that gives you greater control over lowering speed. This feature comes in handy with thin or new ropes that are slick on the feed. Other non-Grigri devices such as the ATC also benefit from the additional friction.