• The Truth About Caffeine and Climbing
  • Five Strategies to Sharpen Concentration and Climb Better
  • Five Ways to Get Better Without Training
  • Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 5 - Strength Phase II
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 4 - Power Endurance
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3 - Strength Training
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2 - Low-Intensity Endurance Phase
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1 - Conditioning Phase
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Connecticut Bouldering
    Connecticut Bouldering

    Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy


    I am a 20-year-old woman, six months pregnant and a passionate climber. I’ve been climbing for three years, and already have a 2-year-old daughter. For my first pregnancy I wasn’t so into climbing so I decided to take a break from the rock during those months. After the birth, I started climbing again and haven’t stopped. I’ve dialed back the usual strenuous climbs (under normal circumstances, up to 5.12d) and I’m keeping it to 5.9 and 5.10 because I know there’s some kind of risk if I try too hard. Should I keep climbing? Or is there another type of training for a psyched mom who wants to stay in shape but also take care of her baby?

    —Natalia | Puerto Rico

    Here are some general guidelines for exercising during pregnancy, which have been taken from the American Pregnancy Association website: If you have been following a regular exercise program prior to your pregnancy, you should be able to maintain it to some degree throughout your pregnancy. Exercise does not increase your risk for miscarriage, but it is important to listen to those natural signals that it is time to reduce the level. Never exercise to the point of exhaustion or breathlessness, a sign that your baby and your body cannot get the oxygen supply they need. Avoid exercising in very hot weather, take frequent breaks, and drink plenty of fluids. Go carefully when walking on rocky terrain or unstable ground—your joints are more flexible during pregnancy, with potential for ankle sprains and other injuries. During the second and third trimesters, avoid exercise that involves lying flat on your back, as this decreases blood flow to your womb. Include relaxation and stretching before and after your exercise program. Eat a healthy diet that includes plenty of fruits, vegetables and complex carbohydrates.

    Here are some specifics for climbing. When bouldering, absolutely avoid jumping off and instead stick to traversing at a low level. Make sure you use crash pads and have attentive spotters when bouldering outside. For route climbing, leader falls are out but toproping can be sustained to the point when hanging in a harness becomes uncomfortable. A full body harness may provide a better option than a regular sit harness, as it will offer more, and more dispersed, support.

    Clearly, this is a non-precise science and I am simply passing on tips from others who have climbed during pregnancy. Every pregnancy, and every body, is different. It is paramount that you listen to yours and do what feels right for you.

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