• Nina Caprez Redpoints All Pitches on Orbayu (5.14b)
  • First All-Female Nepalese Team Summits K2
  • Interview: Alex Megos Climbs Slow, But Sends Fast
  • VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero Claims His 2nd V14
  • Respected Climber Falls 50 Feet and Dies at Cathedral Ledge
  • Coxsey and Caballero Climb V14
  • Ashima Shiraishi, 13, Becomes Second Female to Climb V14
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Baa Baa Black Sheep (5.14b/c)
  • Alex Puccio Sends Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder Climbs Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in a Downpour
  • Q&A: Sam Elias and Mike Kerzhner Fire 3rd Ascent of El Cap's PreMuir (5.13+)
  • Austin Siadak Solos Evolution Traverse in a Day
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees Multi-Pitch 5.14a in Zillertal, Austria
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero flashes his first V11 in South Africa
  • Kyle Vassilopoulos Establishes 130-Foot 5.14 at Wolf Point
  • Hukkataival Climbs Alpine Sport Testpiece Sibergeier (5.14a)
  • Chattanooga's Take on Buildering
  • Alex Megos Frees 20-Pitch 5.14b in Switzerland
  • Trotter, Caldwell, Wharton Put Up Six-Pitch Route in Sicily
  • Jes Meiris Beats Female Solo Speed Record of the Nose by 4 Days
  • Eitan Green, 28, Remembered
  • Kilian Jornet Smashes Speed Record on Denali
  • 7-Up: Honnold and Allfrey Climb 7 El Cap Routes in 7 Days
  • How To Be a Xena of Rock Climbing
  • Vail World Cup Comp Report: Noguchi repeats from last weekend, Sharafutdinov from last time at Vail
  • Emily Harrington Runs It Out to Send Tom et Je Ris (5.14a)
  • David Mason Sends 20 Problems (V11-V13) in Vastervik, Sweden
  • Mark Anderson Establishes the Hardest Route at Independence Pass
  • Six Presumed Dead After 3,000-Foot Fall On Mount Rainier
  • Q&A: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 10 New River Gorge 5.14s in One Month
  • Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper Climb Major New Route in Alaska
  • Dean Potter Responds to Criticism About Flying with His Dog
  • New Yosemite Classic: First Free Ascent of The Unemployment Line (5.12-)
  • Alex Luger Frees "Psycho" 5.14 Trad Route
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Makes First Female Ascent of Wallstreet (5.14b)
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Jour de Chasse (V15) in 15 minutes
  • Ondra Climbs Two 5.14ds and One 5.15a - Plus Amazing Send Footage
  • Interview: Megos Sends Another 5.14d in Two Hours
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle Gives Some Love to Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Emotional Landscapes (V15)
  • Ondra Onsights Il Domani (5.14d)
  • Interview: Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit: Hardest in the World?
  • Special Report: Enough Misinformation, The Truth of Everest
  • Adam Ondra Climbs Two 5.14d’s While Training for the World Cup
  • Wharton Frees Hallucinogen in A Day
  • A Tribute To Our Brother, Ankaji Sherpa
  • 14-Year-Old Kai Lightner Climbs Lucifer (5.14c)
  • Jimmy Webb Climbs Multiple V15s in Magic Wood, Switzerland
  • Fransico “Novato” Marín Is the Oldest Person in the World to Climb 5.14a
  • Rad Video: Mirko Caballero Climbing Meadowlark Lemon
  • Save Getu Climbing From Destruction
  • Jan Hojer Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) and Big Kat (V14)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes 5.14 Testpiece at Quality Arizona Crag
  • Alpine Ascent of the Season: Lindic and Krajnc Free Rolling Stones
  • Shauna Coxsey Climbs Her Second V13 in Albarracín, Spain
  • Video: Rok Klancnik Makes Third Ascent of Bügeleisen (V14/15)
  • Hazel Findlay Becomes the First British Woman to Climb 5.14b
  • Sasha DiGiulian Climbs Red Bull Stadium
  • David Roetzel Solos 15 Pitches of Hard Ice in One Day
  • Ueli Steck's Solo, Slawinsky and Welsted's K6 Ascent Win Piolets d'Or
  • Is Bishop World Class? Niccolò Ceria Says Don’t Believe The Hype
  • Dani Arnold Free Solos 1,100-Foot WI 6 in 27 Minutes!
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Switzerland
  • Mirko Caballero Becomes Youngest Person to Climb V14
  • Katy Whittaker Climbs China Crisis (5.14a)
  • Sean "Stanley" Leary Killed BASE Jumping
  • Red Flag! Help protect access to the Red River Gorge’s most popular crag.
  • American Climbers Crush in Switzerland
  • Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma Attempt Massive Oman Cave Route
  • Mark Anderson Makes Third Ascent of Mission Impossible (5.14c/d)
  • Crazy Video: Free-Solo Aerial Dancing
  • Isabelle Faus Climbs the World’s First V12 Trice
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends the Spicy Trad Pitch Prinzip Hoffnung (5.14a)
  • Five Ten Adds Mirko Caballero to their Elite Team
  • VIDEO: Woods and Webb Crush The Nest (V15)
  • The Secret Climb of Chris Sharma and Stefan Glowacz
  • Cool Vid: Dave Graham's Process and Send of Foundation's Edge (V15)
  • Dan Goodwin Sets New World Record for Longest Lead Climb
  • Avalanche Kills Two Climbers in the Caucasus Mountains
  • Nepalese Government To Penalize Everest Climbers Who Leave Trash
  • Final Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup and Olympics
  • Sean O’Neill Becomes First Paraplegic to Climb Bridal Veil Falls
  • Climbing Borders: Non-Profit Uses Climbing to Help At-Risk Youth
  • Piolets d’Or 2014 Nominations Announced
  • Nepal Changes Fees to Climb Everest: But Are They Lower or Higher?
  • Puccio and Woods Each Win Eighth ABS National Titles
  • Charlie Porter Dies
  • Nalle Hukkataival Nabs Third Ascent of Gioia (V16)
  • Ian McNaught-Davis: 1929-2014
  • Will Gadd and Team Make First Ascent of Overhead Hazard (M13+)
  • Woods and Wurm Win 21st Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo
  • Paul Robinson Establishes New V14 in Hueco Tanks
  • Sharma to Chouinard in a Weekend
  • Honnold and Caldwell Complete First Ascent of Fitz Traverse
  • Chad Kellogg Killed in Patagonia
  • Help Protect Eagle Bluff in Clifton, Maine
  • Updated: Magnus Midtbø is STILL Working on Neanderthal (5.15b)
  • Film Review: The Last Great Climb
  • New Multi-Pitch M11 Mixed-Route Goes Up in Ouray, Colorado
  • Jay Renneberg Remembered
  • Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Switzerland and France
  • Adam Ondra Nabs Second Ascent of First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Record Conditions for Redstone Winterfest
  • Q&A: Daniel Woods Gets "Obsessed" to Send Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Celebrates 21 Years
  • 70-Year-Old Legends Tick Bird Brain Boulevard (IV Wi 5)
  • Help Open Climbing in Hawaii
  • Daniel Woods Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Update: Climber Found Unresponsive at Rock Gym and Declared Dead
  • Cardwell and Puccio Win Di'Namik Comp
  • VIDEO: David Lama and Dani Arnold on First Ascent of Moose's Tooth
  • Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup
  • Greg Mortenson Grateful for Allegations
  • Q&A: Honnold Takes A "Step Forward" by Soloing El Sendero Luminoso
  • Honnold Free-Solos the 1,750-Foot El Sendero Luminoso (5.12d)
  • Climbing Friend Accused of Killing Geoff Farrar at Carderock
  • John Long Writing Symposium Announced
  • Best In Gear For 2014
  • French Stars Storm Ouray: Mercier and Maureau Win 2014 Mixed Comp
  • VIDEO: Bernd Zangerl's Hardest Problem Yet--V16?
  • Robert Jasper Sends Cutting Edge Mixed Climb: The Black Death
  • Two Killed on Aconcagua
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin Send Bellavista (5.14b)
  • 2014 Spitzer Award Winners
  • Roskelley First American Awarded Piolet d’Or Career Award
  • Raw Send Footage of Adam Ondra on New 5.14d First Ascent
  • John Ewbank, 1948-Dec. 2, 2013
  • The Hardest Pitch in Yosemite Goes Down!
  • Mallorca Access Problems for Climbers
  • Paige Claassen Sends India's Hardest Route--Ganesh (5.14)
  • Will Gadd Edged Out at Bozeman UIAA Mixed Comp
  • David Lama Solos New Winter Route in the Alps
  • Webb and Woods Both Send/Downgrade Meadowlark Lemon (V15/14)
  • Jan Hojer Claims V15 First Ascent in Fontainebleau
  • Tommy Caldwell Is Back on the Dawn Wall!
  • Exclusive Dawn Wall Videos: Episodes 3 & 4
  • Interview with Ondra on New 5.15c
  • Ondra Climbs Third 5.15c
  • Watch the Exclusive Dawn Wall Project: Episodes 1 & 2
  • Interview with Ty Landman on the Smiling Buttress FA
  • New Psychological 5.13d Testpiece in the Alps
  • Jimmy Webb Wins La Sportiva Legends Only 2013 Comp
  • Andy Turner Gets Second Ascent Of Powerdab (M13)
  • Muriel Sarkany Becomes Fourth Woman to Redpoint 5.14d
  • Liberty Cap Gets Second FFA of the Year: Scarface (5.12)
  • Q&A: Daniel Woods Defies Gravity
  • How-To's for Gym-Outdoor Transition, Barry Blanchard Memoir and More!
  • Defying Gravity (V15) FA for Daniel Woods
  • Boswell and Bullock Go Big in Canada
  • First Ascent of Unclimbed Peak in the Everest Region, Nepal
  • Building Ethiopia's Potential: Rock Climbing Near Addis Ababa
  • Ryan Vachon Sends M12 Testpiece on Gear
  • Cheyne Lempe Sets New Solo Record on El Cap
  • Gear Guide Contest Winners
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Bridge of Ashes (V15/14) in a Session
  • Updated: Three New Ice Routes on Mt. Evans, Colorado
  • Kevin Jorgeson Is Still Gunning for the Dawn Wall
  • Interview: Daniel Woods on His Hardest Boulder Problem Yet
  • Tommy Caldwell Hurt on the Dawn Wall
  • Jimmy Webb Repeats The Penrose Step (V14)
  • Get power the German way: New training book, new guidebooks and MORE
  • Q&A: Paul Robinson Sends Jaws II (5.15a)
  • Interview: Hazel Findlay Climbs Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • New Ice Route on the Diamond: Window Pain (WI 6+)
  • Ondra Sends Three 5.14d's in One Day
  • Send in your Accident Reports and Win $1000 in Gear
  • Update: Jimmy Webb Flashes Two V12s, One V13 at Leavenworth
  • Interview and Video: Pete Whittaker on the First Ascent of Baron Greenback (5.13d R)
  • Rumney Local Makes Fourth Ascent of Jaws II (5.15a)
  • Traversi Takes Down the Leavenworth Project to Establish The Penrose Step (V14)
  • Graham Makes FA of Foundation's Edge (V15) in Switzerland
  • Woman Paraplegic Climbs El Cap Despite Yosemite's Closure
  • In the Cloud (V12): Hardest Boulder Problem Established by a Woman?
  • Sisu Masters 2013: Finland's Unique Bouldering Competition
  • Megos Makes Easy Work of Kalymnos Climbing Festival
  • Update: New Info on Ueli Steck's 28-Hour Solo of Annapurna's South Face
  • Ueli Steck Summits Annapurna's South Face ... Solo!
  • Sharma to Try New Clark Mountain Project, Possible 5.15+
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.13 at 14,000 Feet
  • Yosemite Climbers Keep Climbing Despite Shutdown
  • Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red
  • UPDATED: Rave Reviews and Sleepless Sending at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
  • Chris Sharma to Try Dawn Wall Project on El Cap
  • Q&A: Paige Claassen on Sending One of the Word's Hardest Slabs--Art Attack (5.14b)
  • Government Shutdown Forces National Park Closures
  • New Female Speed Record on El Cap's Nose by Smith-Gobat and Sauter
  • Fatal Gym Accident
  • Memoirs of Big Walls and Peaks; Tahoe bouldering, Sonora Pass, Missouri Granite
  • Two More 5.15a's for Ondra in Norway
  • New Route on Kapura Peak, Pakistan
  • Yesterday's Gear Guide Giveaway Winner Announced!
  • Bellavista for MacLeod and Cassidy
  • Amazing Helicopter Mountain Rescue Caught on Video!
  • Ueli Steck Heads Back to Himalaya
  • Wide Boy Randall Ticks Cobra Crack (5.14) on Last Day
  • Wide Boy Pete Whittaker Sends the Cobra Crack (5.14)
  • New 5.14 Alpine Route on Mt. Hooker, Wyoming
  • Arizona Climbing Area at Risk of Destruction
  • More V15's for Graham and Webb
  • Wharton and Walsh Send the North Pillar of Twins Tower
  • Yesterday's Gear Guide Giveaway Winner Announced Here!
  • Polish Team Establishes New Route on Great Trango Tower
  • Kilian Jornet and Emelie Forsberg Rescued from Frendo Spur
  • Daniel Woods Spins The Wheel of Wolvo (V15)
  • Kausch Breaks Record for 6000m Peaks Climbed in Andes
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Des Kaisers neue Kleider (5.14a) and Completes the Alpine Trilogy
  • Heritage Featuring Carlo Traversi in Switzerland
  • Fischhuber and Stöhr Win European Bouldering Championships
  • Five Ten announces winners of 2013 CORE Awards
  • Trotter Sends New 5.14 Big Wall
  • Black Diamond Engineer Killed in Climbing Fall
  • 12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Climbs His First 5.14b
  • New Guides to Bouldering in the Winds, Shuteye Ridge, Yosemite and More
  • Interview: Being Alex Megos
  • Ashima Sends V13 in Colorado
  • Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia’s Grampians
  • Manslaughter Charges Filed in Death of Tito Traversa
  • Federation President Killed on G1
  • IFSC 2013 World Youth Championship Results
  • Mario Richard Killed in BASE Jump
  • Alex Megos Establishes Australia's First 5.14d
  • 12-Year-Olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi Send V13 in Magic Wood
  • New 5.12d Free Route on The Eiger's North Face
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of Bellavista (5.14b) in the Dolomites
  • DiGiulian Continues to Roll, Onsights Italy’s Pole Position (5.13c)
  • Weekend Whipper: Psicobloc Choss
  • Mount Everest: New Regulations and "Government Mechanism" to Police Mountain
  • New 5.13b Free Route in Yosemite Valley by Mason Earle
  • Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of Iron Curtain (5.15b)
  • DiGiulian and Webb Win Psicobloc: Photos and Video
  • Updated: Tommy Caldwell Repeats The Path (5.14 R)
  • Father and Son Killed on K2
  • Rocklands Climbing In Jeopardy
  • New Route Opened in Alaska's Rugged Revelation Mountains
  • Alex Honnold to Climb a Building on Live T.V. but Which One?
  • Weekend Whipper: How to Spot a Bad Spotter
  • New Guidebooks! Beta for Fitz Roy, Rifle and More ...
  • Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright Traverse California's 14ers By Bike and Free Solo
  • 24,278-Foot Mountain in Karakoram Finally Sees First Ascent
  • Gérôme Pouvreau Sends Silbergeier (5.14a) in the Rätikon
  • Kilian Jornet Breaks Speed Record on Mont Blanc
  • DiGiulian Cranks Another 5.14 First Ascent
  • Siegrist Repeats Moonshine (5.14d) in Wyoming
  • Ullrich and Muskett Climb Indian Face (E9 6c/5.13ax)
  • Interview: Adam Ondra About Onsighting La Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Weekend Whipper: Don't Get Your Foot Caught!
  • Remembering Layton Kor
  • Brain Puzzle Winner, Wins!
  • Sasha DiGiulian Cranks the First Ascent of a 5.14c in South Africa
  • Alex Megos Sends The Wheel of Life (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Onsights La Cabane Au Canada (5.14d)
  • Paige Claassen Opens 5.14, Starts Charity Tour
  • 12-Year-Old Tito Traversa Dies From Climbing Fall
  • Austrians Make Second Ascent of Ozturk and Wilkinson's Tooth Traverse in Alaska
  • Randy Udall, Missing in Wind Rivers, Has Deep Mountain Roots
  • Five Ten Accepting Applicants for 2013 CORE AWARD
  • Enormocast Features Rock and Ice Publisher Duane Raleigh
  • Jimmy Webb Crushing Rocklands, South Africa
  • Shauna Coxsey Cranks First Female Ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • Video: James Kassay on the First Ascent of The Wheel of Life Direct (V16)
  • Ramonet Sends Sharma's Tierra Negra (5.14d/.15a) Second Try
  • Colorado Man Dies on Grand Teton
  • Nine Climbers Murdered on Nanga Parbat
  • 12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Crushes In Europe
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Long-Standing Swiss Project
  • Two Events Commemorate Layton Kor
  • The Future of Bouldering?
  • Dave Graham Cranks the Second Ascent of The Full Circle (V14)
  • Daring High Altitude Rescue on Everest Sets Records
  • Alex Puccio Third, Stöhr and Sharafutdinov Win Vail World Cup
  • Yosemite's Liberty Cap Goes Free
  • Sharma and Crew Bring First Deep Water Soloing Competition to America!
  • Climber Dies on El Cap
  • New Climbing Area Purchased in Kentucky
  • Climbing Doesn't Make Olympics
  • Possible 5.15a by Steve McClure
  • Whittaker Says Missed Sex and Salad Most
  • 5.14d First Ascent for Adam Ondra
  • Nico Favresse Sends His Hardest Crack Climb!
  • Five Climbers Missing on Kangchenjunga
  • Tragic Climbing Accident at Tahquitz Rock, California
  • Trotter, Cardwell, Traversi and Schulte Join Photo Camp
  • Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa Summit Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse
  • Updated: Death on El Cap
  • Woods and Robinson Send The Ice Knife (V15)
  • Daniel Woods Establishes New V14
  • Death on Everest
  • National Park Service Authorizes Fixed Anchors in Wilderness
  • Alexander Megos Sends Frankenjura's Hardest
  • Visiting Climbers Ignored Bolt Ban, Prompting Armenian Basalt Closure
  • Climbing Banned at Idaho's Castle Rocks
  • 5.14c Onsight for Adam Ondra
  • Climbing Banned on Armenian Basalt Columns
  • James Pearson Skips Bolts and Places Gear on 5.14a
  • 5.15a First Ascent for Alex Megos
  • Ueli Steck Attacked on Everest
  • Help Layton Kor's Family
  • Lama and Arnold Blitz New Route in Alaska
  • Q&A: Samuel Johnson Solos Mount Hayes
  • Barbara Raudner Climbs Mind Control (5.14c)
  • Female Onsight of Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a)
  • Sachi Amma Throws Down in Spain
  • Interview: Wilder Sends 5.13d Trad at the New River Gorge
  • 13-Year-Old Drew Ruana Climbs To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a)
  • Said Belhaj Cranks 5.14d Second Try
  • Climber Dies in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
  • Hard New Mixed Route in Alaska's Kichatna Range
  • Nalle Hukkataival Repeats Bügeleisen (V14)
  • First Ski Descent of Grand Teton North Face
  • Solid Gold: Dan Mirsky Opens New 5.14c
  • Joshua Tree Climbing Area Closed Due to Vandalism
  • Sherpa Killed Fixing Lines on Everest
  • VIDEO#2: Honnold Sending A Gift From Wyoming
  • Daniel Woods and Charlotte Durif Win SCS Nationals
  • Everyone Wins at Piolets d'Or
  • VIDEO: Honnold Sending A Gift from Wyoming (5.13) in Yosemite
  • Ramon Julian Sends Three New 5.14's in Spain
  • Hazel Findlay Sends 5.13c Trad Testpiece
  • VIDEO: Robert Jasper's Trad M12 Scarefest
  • Emmett and Gresham Do First One-Day Ascent of Three Welsh Classics
  • Carlo Traversi Sends New V15 in Switzerland
  • Megos Strikes Again with 5.15a Second Try
  • VIDEO: Guntram Jörg Sends V14 in the Canary Islands
  • Q&A: Traversi vs The Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Sasha DiGiulian Sends Two 5.14bs in One Day
  • Traversi Repeats The Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • World's First 5.14d Onsight!
  • Chris Sharma Sends La Dura Dura (5.15c)
  • George Lowe, Member of Everest '53 Team, Dead at 89
  • Piolets d'Or Committee Hails Controversial Cerro Torre Climbs
  • The Struggle For Portugal's Hardest Sport Climb
  • Paul Robinson Cranks New V15
  • Lama, Ortner, and Auer Claim Bold Winter Ascent
  • Bouldering and Speed Climbing Join 2020 Olympic Bid
  • VIDEO: Magnus Midtbø Sends Ciudad de Dios (5.14d/.15a) in Santa Linya, Spain.
  • 5.13 First Free Ascents in Chile
  • Weekend Whipper: 60-Foot Fall!
  • VIDEO: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Does FFA of Jason's Roof (V10/11)
  • Caldwell and Honnold Rip it Up in Zion
  • Kennedy/Dempster 3rd of Ogre Nominated for Piolet d'Or
  • Three North Faces, Solo, in Winter. Check.
  • Ethical Debate: Dave MacLeod's Routes Disputed
  • Daniel Woods Repeats Bridge of Ashes (V15)
  • 10-Year-Old Sends God's Own Stone (5.14a) in the Red
  • Missing Climbers Declared Dead on Broad Peak
  • Massive Ice Climbing Fall!
  • Dave Graham Sends New V15
  • VIDEO: Emily Harrington on Ice and Mixed Climbing
  • Weekend Whipper: Climber Falls Big on Cobra Crack
  • SICK VIDEO: Ondra Sends Change 5.15c
  • VIDEO: Interview With Adam Ondra
  • VIDEO: Alex Honnold in Chile
  • Two Polish Climbers Feared Dead on Broad Peak
  • Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
  • VIDEO: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Does FFA of Careless Torque (V11)
  • Q&A: Schulte Sends V15 in Font
  • Solo Climber Dies in Fall
  • Weekend Whipper: Steve McClure on Rhapsody (E11)
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma, Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Jasper's Trad M12 Scarefest
  • Schulte Cranking in Font
  • Toru Nakajima Sends The Big Island (V15)
  • Spannuth Repeats La Rêve (5.14d)
  • New M12/13 in Montana
  • Ines Papert Sends New M9+ on Gear
  • Austrian Free Solos Cerro Torre
  • Woods and Puccio Win 2013 ABS Nationals
  • VINTAGE VIDEO: Dani Andrada on La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Weekend Whipper: Ice Groundfall
  • Chipping Controversy
  • New Book on How to Big Wall Climb
  • Grants for Everyday People
  • Robinson and Payne Dominate Hueco
  • Hojer Sends Dreamtime (V15)
  • Sick Video: Nalle Hukkataival Bouldering in Penoles, Mexico.
  • Schulte Cranks in Switzerland
  • Weekend Whipper: Dave MacLeod Whips Big
  • Three Killed in Cairngorms
  • COOL VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian on "Era Vella" 5.14d
  • Woods Sends Hydrangea (V15): Updated with Photos
  • Q&A: Traversi on Meadowlark Lemon (V15)
  • Honnold Rips in Mexico: Updated with New Send
  • Colin Haley Frees Classic Bolted Line in Patagonia
  • Q&A: Chris Sharma Stokes the Fire
  • The Hueco Rock Rodeo Celebrates 20 Years
  • First Female M14
  • Ondra's Spanish Rampage Continues + Raw Send Video
  • Elias Wins Vail Mixed Comp
  • Weekend Whipper: Scary Ice Fall
  • Kurt Diemberger Wins Piolet d'Or
  • Winter Speed Ascent of the Diamond + Rare Repeat of Eldo Horrorshow
  • VIDEO: For the Love of the Game
  • Ondra Sends La Dura Dura 5.15c
  • Sharma Sends 5.15b Project! Updated with Video
  • First Winter Ascent of Europe's Biggest Wall
  • New Secretary of Interior Could Be Good News For Climbers
  • Dave Macleod is Back After Accident
  • Last Great Problem of the Antarctica, Solved
  • VIDEO: Core's Possible V17
  • Dave Graham Wins Spot Bouldering Comp
  • World's First Trad M10?
  • Two Climbers Killed on Les Droites in Chamonix
  • Weekend Whipper: Katie's Scary Tombstone Fall
  • Dani Arnold Ice Marathon
  • VIDEO: Malcolm Smith On Training for Hubble
  • VIDEO: David Graham Crushes in Australia
  • John Long Accident Recovery Update
  • The Naked Edge in 44 Minutes!
  • Sharma and Ondra Gunning for World's Hardest Route
  • 18 Murdered Near Potrero
  • Q&A: Bernd Zangerl Discovers New Boulders
  • Stanley Headwall Gets Sick New Route
  • The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Celebrates 20 Years
  • Hojer Sends The Big Island
  • Ice Climber Killed
  • Despite Warnings, Three Injured in Mount Washington Avalanche
  • Is Patagonia Now a Playground?
  • Video + Interview: Schulte's New V13 at Indy Pass
  • American Women Fire Fitz Roy
  • Dark Horse Repeats Hueco's Hardest
  • Cool Video: Making Tommy Caldwell
  • New Mixed Route in Italian Dolomites
  • Chasing Winter Debuts: Q&A with Ashima + Video
  • Four Dead in Scottish Highlands
  • Weekend Whipper: Man vs Tree
  • Big New Free Route in the Black Canyon
  • Widow's Tears Rare Repeat
  • New Slawinski Route Tribute to Guy Lacelle
  • Fontainebleau's Hardest Repeated
  • Fresh Ascent of Sharma 5.15a
  • David Lama Back to Patagonia
  • Happy Birthday to Fred Beckey
  • Gadd's New M11
  • Papert and Duverney Return, Win Ouray
  • Spindrift: Lama and Ortner Open Alpine Testpiece
  • Blow by Blow: Loskot's V15 Spraydown
  • Photo Gallery: Fred Beckey's Big Comeback
  • Ethical Debate: Traversi versus Blowtorch
  • V15s for Cardwell and Graham
  • Andres Marin Sends Ouray's Hardest Mixed Lines in a Day
  • VIDEO: Rad WI11 in Helmcken Falls
  • Daniel Woods Resurrects Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Weekend Whipper: Josh Wharton's Screamer in the Park
  • Southeast's First V14? Woods Unlocks Aggravated Assault
  • Everest in 3.8 Billion Pixels
  • Two Dead on Aconcagua
  • Video: Toru Nakajima Storms Colorado
  • Cool Video: Jan Hojer Climbs Off the Wagon (V14)
  • Bill Forrest Dies
  • Thomas Bubendorfer: Eiger Legend Back in the Game
  • Q&A: V15 Maestro Nacho Sanchez Unleashed
  • Jimmy Webb Flashes V13
  • Sarah Hueniken Climbs M11
  • Maurice Herzog Dies
  • Is Chalk Toxic?
  • 11-Year-Old Repeats Sharma Testpiece
  • 10 Best Photos of 2012
  • Saturday Bonus: Stalking Dean Potter
  • Most Beautiful Unclimbed Line in Patagonia Climbed
  • John Long Accident Details and Update
  • 12 Best Climbers of 2012
  • Most Beautiful Unclimbed Line in Patagonia Climbed
  • New Yosemite Vid: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Dave Mason Wrap Great U.S.Tour
  • David Lama Sounds Off on Cerro Torre, Pakistan and More
  • Wild Country Recalls Helium Carabiners
  • Longstanding Eldo Project Freed at Last
  • John Long: What I've Learned
  • Will Gadd, Out of Retirement, Wins Big Again
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma on Inspiration
  • PeeWee FA's One of World's Hardest Cracks
  • Edlinger Died in Fall Down Stairs
  • Search Called Off for Three Missing Climbers
  • Nine Ways To Spray About Yourself
  • Three Cups of Tea Author's Death, Suicide
  • John Long Seriously Injured in Fall
  • Sean McColl Victorious at La Sportiva Legends Only
  • Sam Davis Repeats Blood of a Young Wolf (V14)
  • VIDEO: Petzl RocTrip Argentina
  • James Kassay Gets FA of Wheel of Life Direct, Australia
  • VIDEO: Ondra 9a Flash!
  • TNB: Baddest Climb of the Year
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Red River Gorge - Spring 2012
    Red River Gorge - Spring 2012

    Q&A: Daniel Woods Gets "Obsessed" to Send Lucid Dreaming (V15)

    03-Feb-2014
    By

    Daniel Woods holds the swing on his nighttime send of <em>Lucid Dreaming</em> (V15). Photo by Thomas Caleyron.Daniel Woods likes to take a "step back" from boulder problems he can't do right away and let his obsession build. Considering that he has climbed V15 in a single session, anytime Woods employs this technique, you can rest assured that the problem is HARD. 

    Just Last week, Woods revisited Lucid Dreaming (V15), a problem that had eluded him in the past. The line sits on the prominent Grandpa Peabody boulder in the Buttermilk Boulders near Bishop, California, and had bouted all suitors for years until Paul Robinson claimed the first ascent in 2010. Robinson’s attempts to climb the problem were documented in a short film segment featured in the 2010 Real Rock film tour (though the filmmakers did not capture the actual send), and Robinson graded the problem V16. Later, however, Robinson downgraded Lucid Dreaming after he climbed other hard problems and gained a “real understanding” for the grades of high-end boulder problems.


    Woods attempted Lucid Dreaming for three days last March, and despite climbing all the moves, was unable to complete the problem. But Woods let his obsession build and this year he returned to polish off the second ascent.

    Rock and Ice contacted Woods to get the full run-down of his send.

    R&I: When did Lucid Dreaming come on your radar?


    Jared Roth put this line on the map by completing a stand start [Rastaman Vibration] that went at V12. The obvious sit remained undone and added three intense moves into the stand, finished by a heady top-out. I saw this line for the first time when I was 17 or 18 and it looked crazy. I dabbled with the moves, but was unable to do any of them. Paul Robinson was really psyched and created an obsession over it. I left it alone due to the reaches and sharpness of the holds. Paul returned to Bishop and made the FA of the full line. Years went by, and it did not see a repeat. I decided to pay it a visit again last year. This time I was able to do all of the moves within a couple days and started making send attempts. I only had three days in Bishop, so I knew that next year I had to return stronger. I like to take a step back from the climb to create an obsession over it. This allows me to hone in on what needs to get stronger in order to get the job done. This year, fresh off of a productive trip to Penoles, I was amped to have my shot at Lucid Dreaming again. This time I planned to be here until the boulder was sent.

    R&I: What made the problem so challenging for you?


    There are many factors that made this boulder challenging: conditions, skin, accuracy, anxiety, brutalized tendons, confidence issues etc. But this just spices up the game.

    Lucid is also the sharpest crimp line I have tried. The holds are barely there and are turned in funky directions, which makes grabbing them uncomfortable.

    R&I: OK, for all the bouldering nerds out there, give us the play-by-play.


    Start matched on a half-pad crescent shaped edge, paste your left foot on a glass smear as well as the right, pull on and do a left hand move to a quarter-pad, rounded, slick crimp. Bite down hard on this hold and move your right foot high and right onto a decent edge, then isolate the left arm and come right hand into the shark's tooth. This hold is so cool yet loco! How you grab this hold determines if you do the next move or not. For me, I place my ring finger on the left side of the spike and middle finger on the right side (the hold size is less than a quarter-pad and bites like no other). I then load my two fingers and wrap my thumb around the side of the tooth. When you get this, you make a fist with the wall and can feel the edge cut through a couple layers of skin, which is what holds you onto the wall. I then bring my left foot high on this knob right below the starting hold and explode to the left hand mini-pinch. This hold is slick, quarter-pad, and has an OK thumb catch, which makes it positive. It is hard to have the right accuracy to get this hold perfect. Now you are in the stand of Rastaman Vibration (V12). From here you switch your right foot onto the knob and place your left foot on a smear out left. You eye up the final half pad, rounded crimp and jump to it. Your feet go nearly horizontal while your fingers are squeezing these two holds. Once controlled, you do the remaining 30-foot slab to the top of the boulder. 

    Halfway up the slab, an eerie situation arises. You take a left hand edge and right hand sloping mini pinch, match feet on a glassy smear and stem your right foot way out onto another smear. At this point you are no hands and can reach over to the jug knob. This move is not hard, but makes your stomach turn a little bit. Once in this position, the rest of the slab is chill (unless you’re me and have zero slab climbing skills. It took me a little bit to complete the 5.7 friction jaunt to the top. The whole time Jimmy was saying he could do it in his trainers!)


    R&I: How did the problem come together for you on this recent trip? Were you stronger or was it just a matter of time?


    I made sure to be patient with Lucid this trip. I felt strong from Penoles and just needed to wait for the right conditions to do this line. On my first day of the trip, I almost stuck the epic swing from the ground. That moment made me realize that it would go this trip. The question was just when it would go. The next day I came back in the evening and sent on my second try from the start. I was surprised at how fast it went this trip. I already had bullet skin from Penoles and my fingers were in good condition. Overall, Lucid took around 4 or 5 days to complete, but multiple years of mental preparation and obsession in order to be in the right zone to do it.


    The send was special. It was black out with lights shining and a crowd of people watching in the background. I was playing some Young Jeezy on my Goal Zero Rockout2 speaker and just stared at the wall, getting amped. The air was humid and cold. I pulled on and hit every hold right. The slab was epic to do in the dark, but at that point the meat of the climb was done. Lucid was complete!

    R&I: Finally, what's your personal grade for Lucid? Is this problem a step up from your other recent V15s or right in the same vicinity?

    It is such a specialized climb. The holds are small and painful with long reaches in between. It comes down to having bullet skin, strong tendons and perfect conditions to connect the dots. For the style it is in, I would give it solid V15.

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    Hello