Bouldering ace Paul Robinson has established a new V15 in the Ozark mountains of Arkansas. Dubbed The New Chapter, the line is the sit-down start to an already existing V13 called Child's Play, which Robinson, along with Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb, had climbed in January.
"I saw the potential for a sit start, but we didn't get to try it that trip," Robinson told Rock and Ice.
Traveling back to Arkansas after ABS Nationals, Robinson tried the sit-start and was immediately intrigued, but unfortunately ran out of time before he could complete the problem. Eager to send the line, he made the trip back to the Ozarks a week later, but unfortunately conditions were not great.
"I returned to some horrid conditions and waited it out," says Robinson. "I saw my window and again set to work on the climb."
Robinson says he came close to sending on Tuesday, but was too fatigued to finish off the "endurancy" problem. Returning fresh and rested on Wednesday, Robinson managed to send the problem in a handful of tries. "One of the sickest roof climbs I have ever done," Robinson commented on 8a.nu.
The New Chapter is located in a "massive" roof that sits above the road leading 20 minutes west of Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Robinson describes the problem as "very powerful" and says that the process involved fives sessions and "lots of tries."
As for the name of the problem?
"It is a new year and this is the hardest thing that I have put up this year," explains Robinson. "I am just really psyched and hopefully I can continue pushing myself and have the best year of my life!"