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Climb Safe: Belay School - Why Dynamic Matters
Why one little-used technique can make or break your fall. I’ve always viewed trad- or ice-climbing falls as more serious than sport whippers.
John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
The Epic of All Epics
I had been in Caracas, Venezuela, for less than three hours when Alfredo turned to Cory and me, and said: “Don’t talk to anyone, don’t let anyone know that you’re foreign, and try not to be seen by anyone. Bad people live here.”
A storm was a'brewin.' I felt it in my trick knee well that, and I was with Dave Graham in Calgary, Canada, where it had rained for three days, which translates to no climbing. It might get ugly. Dave is a fiery ball of motivation and determination, and if he doesn't have an outlet, and fast, there's gonna be trouble.
TNB: American Dirtbag
Where are all the dirtbags? I'm not talking about these imposter dirtbags, the new-age lurkers taking up all the parking spots at Camp 4, Indian Creek and Miguel's Pizza with their pimped-out, Direct TV-receiving Sprinter vans that look like college dorm rooms on 26s.
Black Diamond Reactor Ice Tool
Clean, simple, elegant - a couple of years ago, I would never have used those words to describe a leashless ice tool with an offset grip. But that was before I held a set of the new Black Diamond Reactors in my mitts. While the security of leashes (the futzy bastards) will always occupy a fond place in my heart, leashless climbing is here to stay.
Biceps: Reattachment Surgery
I had a proximal bicep tear reattachment surgery. However, after two months the tendon tore loose from the insertion point. I can have another surgery or I can just live with it.
Building a Better Climber: Phase 4 - Power Endurance
Welcome to the Rock and Ice year-long training plan. If you stuck with the first three phases in this ongoing series, you should be feeling fit and ready to start power-endurance training. Don’t worry if you’ve only just joined in; simply start with two weeks of low-intensity endurance, then commence with the phase outlined below.