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Climb Safe: Common Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them
In 1980 my college roommate, Mark Herndon, fell 100 feet on a two-pitch route. I was belaying from a stance at the end of the first pitch, cooling my feet, shoes off. Mark had just cruised the second-pitch crux, a near-holdless paddle up granite glass, and was nearing the end of a 50-foot runout above the route’s only lead bolt when he slipped.
John Long: Guilty Pleasures
Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981 in Las Vegas, climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song.
To find paradise, look no further than your own backyard. A photo expose on Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley and the climbers who are making it happen.
Standing backstage on the set of the Cirque du Soleil production Love, I'm surrounded by sumptuous props and a cast of chiseled humans who look as if ...
TNB: American Dirtbag
Where are all the dirtbags? I'm not talking about these imposter dirtbags, the new-age lurkers taking up all the parking spots at Camp 4, Indian Creek and Miguel's Pizza with their pimped-out, Direct TV-receiving Sprinter vans that look like college dorm rooms on 26s.
Integral Designs Cocoon Sleeping Bag
The Cocoon is a Primaloft sleeping bag with a 30-inch, center zipper and a 30-degrees F rating.
Back: Preventing Hunchback
What's up with those rock climbers who look honed as hell, but the minute they step off the rock, they turn into the Hunchback of Notre Dame?
Maximum Training in Minimum Time
The arrival of summer means climbing trips. How would one train to be able to climb as much as possible during a finite period?
How do I Make a Bomber Anchor?
I work at a camp center in the Alps in France and we teach beginner climbers on one of the building's concrete walls. Until now we've used the iron beams as anchors (using a redundant sling set-up) for toproping, which is safe and works well, but it takes 40 minutes to rig.