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Climb Safe: Ascender Safety 101
Three fatalities on this one route alone underscore the seriousness of jugging fixed ropes. Though seemingly simple and safe, this task, like rappelling, is one of climbing’s most insidious killers. The good news is that, as with rappelling, a few simple precautions can minimize the risk.
John Long: Slaying Giants
Cast by chance into the frenzy of a dramatic Yosemite rescue, the author confronts his youthful fears head-on.
Not So Fast: Lessons From a Father-Son Trip to Patagonia
Every couple of years, my son Tim, Jr. and I take a climbing trip together. Usually we pick one of my “dream climbs”—those classic routes that you always hear about, but seem too difficult to consider seriously. But my son encourages me to climb harder than I think I can, and together we have done The Scenic Cruise, The Naked Edge, Primrose Dihedrals and most recently Lotus Flower Tower. It is especially cool for me both to tick a lifetime goal and climb with my son.
Kyle Dempster and friends had been moving for 14 hours on the unclimbed Xuelian West, a 6,400-meter peak in the Tien Shan, when he found himself on an M6 pitch at 17,000 feet, spindrift ripping down all around, and his last cam 20 feet below his boots.
TNB: Chris Sharma and The Art of Jeep Maintenance
The scorched desert expanse surrounding Las Vegas smears together into one terrible brown color as Chris Sharma, Dalia Ojeda, Miguel and I whiz along at 90 miles per hour in an old Jeep Grand Cherokee. The American West, this celebrated frontier, as tame as it has become with commercialism and super highways, is still the last good place I know of for real adventure.
Metolius Regular Crash Pad Review
Don’t let the name fool you. The “Regular” is more than just average; it’s darn good, and lightweight to boot.
Hit in the Thigh With a Rock
I was climbing Rainier two weeks ago and took a hit from grapefruit-sized rock. Plunked me in the muscle just above the kneecap. I gutted it out and summited, but it was 18 hours before I was home to ice and elevate it.
Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
As an older climber with a long history of climbing and athletics, I find that age, lifestyle, work commitments and other responsibilities have been taking their toll on performance.