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Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
Pity the double-loop bowline—it’s getting worse press than Jacko. Two issues ago, we bagged on the knot because in 1989 Lynn Hill took a 70-foot groundfall when her partly tied bowline pulled free of her harness.
John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Mountain of Clark
Climb Till Your Forearms Explode and You Fall 80 Feet at the Country's Best (And Hardest) Sport Crag.
Climbers We Lost in 2012
In Memoriam—Jack Roberts, Paul Borne, Tony Scott, Michael Ybarra, Patrick Edlinger, Lincoln Hall, Maurice Herzog, John Rosendahl, Gil Weiss, Ben Horne, Jim Jack, Chris Rudolph and Johnny Brenan—2012.
Charlie Fowler American Alpinist
That Charlie Fowler would meet his end while doing what he loved is no huge surprise given the sheer volume of his climbing. At age 52, he'd racked up three and a half decades of it, and had carried his quiet air of a seasoned survivor from hard rock to the high-risk games of alpine climbing and soloing.
Arc'teryx Aperture Chalk Bag Review
Field test review of the no-leak chalkbag, the Arc'teryx Aperture.
How to Use a Hangboard
After recent miserable sport climbing performances, I’m finally knuckling down to address my weaknesses—and use the hangboard I bought 18 months ago! A friend said to build up to 30 seconds on, 30 off, but everyone else suggested hangs of up to eight seconds.