• The Truth About Caffeine and Climbing
  • Five Strategies to Sharpen Concentration and Climb Better
  • Five Ways to Get Better Without Training
  • Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 5 - Strength Phase II
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 4 - Power Endurance
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3 - Strength Training
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2 - Low-Intensity Endurance Phase
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1 - Conditioning Phase
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Slopenstein V7
    Slopenstein V7

    Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?


    Some of my buddies swear by protein shakes for getting strong, but surely these just cause you to bulk up?
                                                                                                                         —Paul Blumer, West Bloomfield, MI

    When it comes to gaining muscle bulk, the type of training you do will always have far more influence than what you eat. Hitting the weights hard three or four times a week, rather than whether or not you drink a protein shake, is what will cause you to look like an aspirant Schwarzenegger. The sports that cause vast quantities of muscle tissue to break down all over the body, such as bodybuilding or powerlifting, require significant increases in dietary protein. Other sports, like climbing, only require power from a smaller and more limited range of muscles and therefore require a proportionately smaller component of dietary protein. If you ingest too much protein after climbing it will simply end up in the toilet and drain your bank balance. After a typical endurance-based session on routes, your body really needs carbohydrates, not protein, for glycogen replenishment. After endurance sessions, go for one of the recovery formulas that blends protein with carbohydrates on a 1:3 or a 1:4 ratio. It is only after higher-intensity sessions such as hard bouldering, campusing or fingerboarding that you might consider a pure protein supplement—but you don’t need anything like the quantities consumed by a bodybuilder. The main concern with protein shakes is that they may cause you to take on excess calories and put on fat. Go for the ones that are low in added sugar, and if you make them with milk, use skim milk, and dilute it with water. For climbing, amino-acid capsules probably make more sense. To summarize, don’t bother with protein supplements after routes, but a little extra protein is a good idea after strength/power sessions, or more generally during strength-building phases.

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