• Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Independence Pass, CO
    Independence Pass, CO

    Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?

    09-Apr-2010
    By

    Some of my buddies swear by protein shakes for getting strong, but surely these just cause you to bulk up?
                                                                                                                         —Paul Blumer, West Bloomfield, MI

    When it comes to gaining muscle bulk, the type of training you do will always have far more influence than what you eat. Hitting the weights hard three or four times a week, rather than whether or not you drink a protein shake, is what will cause you to look like an aspirant Schwarzenegger. The sports that cause vast quantities of muscle tissue to break down all over the body, such as bodybuilding or powerlifting, require significant increases in dietary protein. Other sports, like climbing, only require power from a smaller and more limited range of muscles and therefore require a proportionately smaller component of dietary protein. If you ingest too much protein after climbing it will simply end up in the toilet and drain your bank balance. After a typical endurance-based session on routes, your body really needs carbohydrates, not protein, for glycogen replenishment. After endurance sessions, go for one of the recovery formulas that blends protein with carbohydrates on a 1:3 or a 1:4 ratio. It is only after higher-intensity sessions such as hard bouldering, campusing or fingerboarding that you might consider a pure protein supplement—but you don’t need anything like the quantities consumed by a bodybuilder. The main concern with protein shakes is that they may cause you to take on excess calories and put on fat. Go for the ones that are low in added sugar, and if you make them with milk, use skim milk, and dilute it with water. For climbing, amino-acid capsules probably make more sense. To summarize, don’t bother with protein supplements after routes, but a little extra protein is a good idea after strength/power sessions, or more generally during strength-building phases.

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