• Rock Climbing Training: How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber - The Rock and Ice Training Series
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
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    Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route

    15-Dec-2009
    By

    Does the G-Tox method for shaking out on routes work? Any other advice for getting the best recovery in a strenuous position, without waving your arms around like a nut?  —Jim Fletcher | Sydney, Australia

     

    In general there is very little direct research into climbing—however, this is one area that has been investigated. For those who aren’t acquainted, G-Tox is the term that has been coined to describe the technique of shaking your arm above your head for a second or two before lowering it. It is thought that the effect of gravity helps blood circulate through the forearm and clear lactate (the pump) more rapidly from the muscles. Luke Roberts, a friend of mine who was studying sports science in the U.K., carried out a survey on this subject in 2001. His study involved a group of climbers who were asked to shake first with the G-Tox method on one climb, and then without it on another equivalent climb. He measured blood lactate levels immediately post-exercise. The G-Tox method was measured to be slightly more effective in lowering blood lactate levels than shaking with the arm held down. However, he also noted certain limitations to the study and he felt that further research would be beneficial.

    I first witnessed the G-Tox method being used by the French competition team back in the early 1990s. There was much hype about it then, but if it really was significantly better, you would think it would be practiced universally by now. You will hear mixed opinions on the effectiveness of this method among experienced climbers, and I’m not convinced it makes any difference. It undoubtedly makes sense to experiment with the G-tox method, but if you’ve already done that and you’re still not convinced, blow it off.

    Here are some conventional tips for making the best use of rests. First, spot them—the best rests aren’t always in sequence with the climbing. For example, you may need to shift half a move to the side to rest off the holds. Similarly, on complex 3-D rock such as tufa or stalactite-infested limestone, there may be a hidden knee-bar or body-brace that won’t actually appear during the climbing sequence. You need sensitive visual radar to spot these rests. When you find one, quickly assess how good it is and decide whether it’s going to be just a quick flick of each arm or a half-hour shake-athon. On a steep wall, even if you have a jug for your hands, if the footholds are bad you may exhaust yourself by staying there too long. Monitor your breathing rate as well. When your breathing rate is no longer falling, press on. Keep your arms as straight as possible. You may need to twist-in with your hips on overhangs, but on vertical routes, simply bend your legs. Relax your body as much as possible and try to settle your weight on your feet. If your calves cramp, try using your heel on larger footholds to reduce the strain. Breathe slowly and deeply from your chest cavity rather than with rapid, thin gasps through your mouth. As you change arms, you will probably need to swap feet and reposition your hips to maintain optimal position for poise and balance. If the resting hold is positive, then try to hook your fingers over it and use friction to hang as passively as possible. If the hold projects outwards, cup your wrist around the side. A final tip is to look out for jams, which often save the day.

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