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  • Rappel Safer: How to Extend
  • Alex Megos Repeats Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbs La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Roskelleys Climb NE Buttress of Mount Slesse
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Amandla (V14)
  • Andy Kirkpatrick Solos Sea of Dreams on El Cap
  • Markovič, Supper Claim Gold in Stavanger
  • First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress of Mt. Waddington, B.C.
  • How To Make Your Own Clip Stick - Tips from Jonathan Siegrist
  • LIVE: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup Stavanger 2015 - FINALS
  • LIVE: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup Stavanger 2015 - Semi-Finals
  • Sasha DiGiulian, Carlo Traversi Go for Eiger Summit Push Tomorrow
  • Jonathan Hörst, 12, Sends Two 5.14’s
  • Best New Climbing Gear of 2016
  • Stanhope, Segal Free Bugaboos' Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5.14
  • Chon, Noguchi Crowned 2015 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Shauna Coxsey, Alexey Rubtsov Win Final Bouldering WC of the Year
  • Jon Krakauer: Climbing Everest was the Biggest Mistake I've Ever Made
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich 2015
  • 82 and Done – Ueli Steck Completes Alps Mission in 61 Days
  • Lightning Halts Psicobloc, Jimmy Webb and Charlotte Durif Take Gold
  • Potrero Chico First Ascentionist “Magic” Ed Wright Dies
  • Jon Cardwell Snags Second Ascent of Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle
  • Mina Markovič, Romain Desgranges Win Lead World Cup, Imst, Austria
  • Staying Alive in the Death Sport Capital of the World
  • Eight Day Solo First Ascent of Bigwall Route on Mt. Huashan, China
  • Robert Pizem – Father First, Climber Second
  • British Team Makes First Ascent of The Mirror Wall, Greenland
  • Czech Up - Adam Ondra Climbs A Sparsely Bolted Sandstone Arête
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace Tips for Rock Climbers
  • New Route and Deaths on Annapurna - World's Deadliest Mountain
  • Adam Ondra Claims Second Ascent of Sharma’s Three Degrees of Separation (5.14d), Céüse
  • Julianne Wurm and Jan Hojer On Sending Spree in Silvretta, Austria
  • Homestead: Access Fund Saves 360 Acres of Climbing Access in Arizona
  • Alex Johnson - The Pro Life and Growing Up as a Climber
  • 32-Year-Old Dutch Mountaineer Dies in Fall on Mount Blanc Massif
  • MERU: Highly Anticipated Climbing Film Premieres August 14th
  • Jesse Huey, Brette Harrington Claim Second and Third Free Ascents of Edge of Pan (5.13 R), Squamish
  • Margo Hayes, 17, Sends Two Rifle 5.14s in One Day
  • Vikki Weldon Makes Fourth Free Ascent of Adder Crack (5.13 R)
  • Hukkataival, Woods Claim First and Second Ascents of Get Railed (V14)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • REEL ROCK 10 Film Tour Lineup
  • Jain Kim, Gautier Supper Win Gold in Briançon, France
  • Karoline Sinnhuber Sends First V13, Charity Boulder, Silvretta
  • Juliane Wurm Ditches Comp Climbing for Real Rocks
  • VIDEO: Sicilian Deep Water Soloing
  • Conrad Anker, David Lama Put Up New Route on Temple of Sinewava
  • Rock Climbing Saved My Life: A Veteran’s Struggle with PTSD
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Bellavista (5.14a, 500m)
  • ​The Edge of Extinction - First Ascent of Nanga Parbat's Mazeno Ridge
  • Daniel Woods V15 FA Spray of Light, Rocklands
  • Mina Markovič, Ramón Julián Puigblanque Win Lead World Cup, Chamonix, France
  • Seb Bouin Establishes 5.15a at Pic Saint-Loup
  • Ueli Steck Reaches Halfway Point on 82 Summits Project
  • Dave Graham Claims FA of Hatchet Prow (V14), Rocklands
  • UK/US Expedition Summits Unclimbed Himalayan Peak
  • MOVES - How Many Climbs Can You Identify From Just One Move?
  • Belay Ledge Disappears on Half Dome’s Regular Route
  • Jimmy Webb Makes Second Ascent of Livin Large (V15), Rocklands
  • Giorgia Tesio, 14, Makes First Female Ascent of Chay (5.13d)
  • Dimitri Vogt, 18, Sends Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Anthony Johnson Onsights Jihad - Third Ascent of “Terrifying” Vedauwoo Offwidth
  • Time-Lapse: Lightning Triggers Multiple Wildfires in Zion
  • Only Two Seats Left at the John Long Writing Symposium
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Monkey Wedding (V15)—Rocklands
  • Climbing Access Victory – Michigan’s AAA Walls Re-Opened
  • ​First World Cup Victory for Petra Klingler - Haiyang, China
  • Grampians: Best Bouldering in the World or Overrated?
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma’s Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Sean McColl, Akiyo Noguchi Win Bouldering World Cup, Chongqing, China
  • The Beatnik of the Alps: A tale of FA's, Rescues, Love, and Suicide
  • Ueli Steck, Michi Wohlleben: Eighty-two Summits in 80 days
  • Untouched Rock: Angie Eiter, Bernie Ruech Develop New Crag in Greece
  • Massive Rockfall in Yosemite's Tenaya Canyon
  • Hazel Findlay on Positivity, Being Bold and Staying Focused
  • Cameron Hörst, 14, Sends First 5.14b, Raubritter
  • Josh Ibbertson, 11, Sends Raindogs (5.13b)
  • Jonathan Siegrist: 5.14 First Ascent in the Flatirons, Colorado
  • Chris Sharma Free-Climbs California’s Redwoods
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of La Coccinelle Trump L'oeil (5.14), Verdon Gorge
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Hell'Avaro (5.14c/d)
  • For Sale: 10 Acres at Donner Summit
  • Roland Hemetzberger Repeats Ondra’s Fugu (5.14d)
  • Iranian Team Climbs First Ascent on Karambony Tower, Madagascar
  • Megan Mascarenas, Nathaniel Coleman on the Podium in Vail
  • Inside the Mind of Ethan Pringle – Climbing Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Sachi Amma - Second and Last Ascent of Tinipi (5.15a), Borneo Earthquake
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Jade (V14), Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13) after Vail WC
  • LIVE: 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail
  • Emily Harrington Sends Golden Gate (5.13) on El Capitan
  • GoPro Mountain Games Hosts Bouldering World Cup
  • VIDEO: Hazel Findlay - Giving El Cap's Pre-Muir (5.13+) a Try
  • Adam Ondra Sends White Noise (V14/15), Flashes Bear Toss (V13)
  • Austrian Alpinists Summit Unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska.
  • Mateusz Haladaj Sends Sharma’s Papichulo (9a+/5.15a)
  • Anna Stöhr and Alban Levier Take Gold in Toronto
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Toronto 2015
  • Twenty-two Year Old Dies in Rappelling Accident on El Cap
  • IFSC World Cup in Toronto May 30-31
  • Ramp Up Your Training with Fun
  • Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain
  • Bouldering Competition to be Held in Memory of Tito Traversa
  • Only Two Spots Left in the John Long Writing Symposium!
  • Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding
  • Vasya Vorotnikov, Claire Bresnan Claim Bouldering Titles at Riverrock
  • VIDEO: Tommy Caldwell Cruises Ice-Covered Crack
  • Kev Shields – High Solace: Demons, Depression and Solo Climbing
  • Siegrist Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d)–“Best climbing trip of my life”
  • Germans Win Big at European Bouldering Championships
  • VIDEO: Raw Power Vs Flawless Technique
  • Ethan Pringle Sends Jumbo Love (5.15b) – Hardest Sport Climb in America
  • Dean Potter Killed in Wingsuit Accident in Yosemite
  • Solo Climber Found Dead on Denali
  • LIVE STREAM: European Bouldering Championships 2015 – Semi-finals
  • VIDEO: Gord McArthur - The Man Behind the Machine
  • Logan Barber Frees The Firewall (5.13d)—Hardest Trad Line in China
  • Training Beta: How to Warm Up For Route Climbing
  • A Second Earthquake and A Shorter Everest
  • Sherpa Future Fund and Account of the April 25 Everest Avalanche
  • Dai Koyamada Sends Three-Year “Super Project”
  • Chris Sharma Onsights Snuff Movies (8c/5.14b), Catalonia, Spain
  • 2015 Ice Climbing Trip Report: Montana, Wyoming and Norway
  • Calling All Non-Sponsored Climbers
  • Melloblocco 2015: World's Largest International Bouldering Festival
  • Dean Potter Sets New Half Dome FKT
  • Indian Creek, Cedar Mesa Under Threat by Utah Legislature
  • Nepal Disaster Relief: How You Can Help
  • Dani Arnold Breaks Ueli Steck’s Speed Record on the Matterhorn
  • Big Men: 5.15a First Ascent by Iker Pou, Spain
  • A Summitless Year for Everest? North Side Closed, Retreat from the South
  • Training Beta: How to Make Yourself Try Hard
  • Q&A: Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, On Tijuanita (5.14a)
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Mecca Extension (5.14b) and What it Means to be a Climber
  • Climbing Accident: Earthquake, Avalanche, 21 Dead on Everest, Over 4,600 in Nepal
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, Climbs Her First 5.14b
  • VIDEO: Yvon Chouinard on the Today Show
  • VIDEO: Lynn Hill, Real Life Superhero
  • Angy Eiter Sends Era Vella (5.14d), Spain
  • Sufferfest: Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright on Nat Geo Live
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian on the Deep Bond Between Climbing Partners
  • Geyikbayiri Saved: Climbers Stop Mining Operation at Turkey’s Largest Crag
  • Pamela Pack Establishes 5.13 Offwidth, American Horror Story
  • Jacopo Larcher Gets Second Ascent of Helmutant (5.14d), Italy (With Video)
  • Carlo Traversi Bags Bad Girls Club (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • Training Beta: Mark and Mike Anderson’s Guide to Hangboard Training
  • Daniel Woods, Jon Cardwell Send Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Puccio Sends V10, V11 and V12 in One Day
  • Plane Crash Kills Climber Andy Tyson
  • Jakob Schubert Gets Second Ascent of Bügeleisen Sit, Austria’s First V15
  • 2015 Piolets d’Or Awards
  • Rub it Raw: Mike Anderson, Bryan Bird Free Five-Pitch 5.13 in Zion
  • Alex Megos Downunder
  • Vikki Weldon Sends Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a), Oliana, Spain
  • Q&A: Sonnie Trotter On Estado Critico (5.14d)
  • Roads, Bridges Washed Out At Red River Gorge
  • Kai Lightner Sends His First 5.14d, Era Vella, Spain
  • Sonnie Trotter Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque: Two 5.14d's and Two 5.15a's in Four Days
  • Matt Segal Bags 2nd Ascent of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
  • VIDEO: Dave MacLeod – Project Fear
  • VIDEO: Training with Adam Ondra
  • Climb Safe: Do Ropes Need to Rest Between Falls?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Dean Potter: When Dogs Fly
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper, 2015 SCS National Championship Runner-Up
  • Kai Lightner, Delaney Miller Win 2015 SCS National Championships
  • LIVE: 2015 SCS National Championships
  • Annapurna Claims Two More Lives
  • ​Carlo Traversi Sends Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Roland Wagner: A 21-Year Dream to Climb 5.14d (With Video)
  • Ashima Ticks Another Project in Spain
  • Alex Megos: Japan Sendathon
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends La Rambla (5.15a)
  • VIDEO: Ontario Climbing
  • Ethan Pringle Sends La Reina Mora (5.14d)
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Possible 5.15a
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Climber Falls to Death, Apparent Bolt Failure
  • Climb Safe: Can A Hot Belay Device Melt My Slings?
  • Golden Moment: Bill Ramsey Sends 5.14b at 54
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mason Earle Establishes New 5.14 Crack Climb
  • Wildfire Tears Through Cape Town Crags
  • Siberian Express: New 5.14c from Mark Anderson
  • PHOTO GALLERY: Canadian Ice: By John Price
  • Lead Singer of The Rebel Spell Dies in Climbing Accident
  • Ryan Vachon and Sarah Hueniken Crush Vail’s Hardest Mixed Lines
  • Caldwell, Honnold, Practice Your Speeches for the 2015 Piolets d’Or
  • Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • LIVE STREAM: Climbing Works International Festival 2015
  • PHOTO GALLERY: Women of Rock 3 in HD
  • Magic Woods
  • Alex Johnson: FA of The Swoop (V10), with Video
  • VIDEO: Teton Gravity: The Himalayas from 20,000 ft.
  • 2015 Rock and Ice Photo Camp Enrollment Now Open
  • First Free-Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a), Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia
  • Q&A: Ondra Sends Necessary Evil, Says Failures Are Reasons to Train
  • Pakistan to Train High-Altitude Police Unit to Protect Climbers
  • Marc-André Leclerc Solos Corkscrew on Cerro Torre
  • New Winter Route on the Troll Wall, Romsdal, Norway
  • New Paltz Climbing Gym Burns Down
  • Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
  • Kwon YoungHye Sends World's Hardest Mixed-Climbs In A Season
  • Everest: Reroute Through Khumbu Icefall for the 2015 Climbing Season
  • Sachi Amma Sends 5.15a on 4th Attempt, in Santa Linya, Spain
  • Griffin Whiteside Sends The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau
  • Royal Canadian Air Force Sgt. Missing After Ice Climbing Accident
  • Puccio and Woods Both Claim 9th ABS National Title
  • Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc Put Up New Routes in Patagonia
  • Papert Claims Second Ascent of M12 Scarefest
  • Sneak Peek: The Dawn Wall Issue Is On The Way!
  • Messner Capped the Hour at the AAC’s 2015 Annual Benefit Dinner
  • Sachi Amma Sends Sharma's Fight or Flight (5.15b) in Oliana, Spain
  • Climbing Guide Dies in Fall
  • VIDEO: Will Gadd Sends Niagara Falls
  • Will Gadd Climbs a Frozen Niagara Falls
  • SlabMaster: Klemen Bečan Onsights 5.14c in Spain (With Video)
  • The Quinfecta: Classic San Juan Colorado Ice Climb Link-up
  • Alex Megos Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Cranks First Ascent of Kintsugi (V15)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.14d Project in New Mexico
  • The Grand Experience: Superbowl XLIX to Host Rock Climbing Wall
  • Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson Appear on The Ellen DeGeneres Show
  • Oregon Climber Killed in Fall
  • Climbing Film "Meru" Makes it into the Sundance Film Festival
  • Acclaimed Cellist Ben Sollee Raises Money for Red River Gorge
  • Q&A: Jason Kehl Proves that Hueco Tanks Is Far From Climbed Out
  • Daniel Woods Sends The Process-Possible V16
  • Robert Craig, K2 Survivor, Author and Educator, Dies
  • The Dawn Wall Goes Down!
  • The Film "Valley Uprising" is Now Available Here
  • Guidebook Worth its Weight in Gold, Selling for $1,000
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Catches Caldwell, Final Push Begins
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Dyno, Two Pitches Away from Wino Tower
  • Gadd Wins Ouray, Again
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Pitch 15!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Last 5.14 Pitch!
  • Sasha DiGiulian to Compete in Ouray Ice Fest
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Pitch 16!
  • Sam Elias Reports on New Routes in Lebanon
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell and Jorgeson Both Send Crux Pitch!
  • Caldwell and Jorgeson are Charging Up The Dawn Wall
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs V12 in Bishop
  • Toni Lamprecht Establishes Black Flag (5.14c/d)
  • Video: Niky Ceria Bouldering in Albarracin, Spain Before the Chalk Ban
  • Desert Climbing Legend Eric Bjornstad Has Died
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Chromosome Y (5.14d)
  • TNB: The Story Behind the Craziest of Rescues
  • Broken Rules and Broken Problems in Red Rock, Nevada
  • Will Mayo Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M13) and Establishes Mustang (M14)
  • Jeff Mercier Onsights D13
  • Climbing Saves At-Risk Youth in Mexico
  • Ascent, Now Accepting Stories
  • Jimmy Webb Takes Down Defying Gravity (V15)
  • Climber Dies From Fall in the Gunks
  • Tommy Caldwell Sends Last Hard Pitch on the Dawn Wall
  • Ondra Takes First in Lead World Cup
  • Honnold Frees El Cap's Muir Wall (5.13b/c) in 12 Hours with No Falls
  • Clif Bar's Response: A Letter to the Climbing Community
  • Delaney Miller Jumps From V7 to V11
  • Drew Ruana, 15, Sends an American Classic - Just Do It (5.14c)
  • Alex Megos Sends Mandala Sit Start (V13/14)
  • Dave Pegg, King of Rifle, Has Died
  • Honnold, Potter, and Others Fired by Clif Bar for Soloing
  • Jorg Verhoeven Free Climbs the Nose (5.14) on El Cap
  • Jakob Schubert Wastes No Time in Magic Wood
  • Jimmy Webb Makes First Ascent of Wyoming’s Multiverse (V14)
  • New Outhouse in Indian Creek in Honor of Black Diamond Engineer
  • Gear Review: Mammut Realization Shorts
  • Another New Speed Record on the Nose for Sauter and Smith-Gobat
  • Gabriele Moroni Finishes Three-Year Project—Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Martin Stranik Repeats Practice of the Wild (V15)
  • Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat Break El Cap Speed Record
  • Nina Caprez Sends 5.14b at a New Crag in Turkey
  • Ondra and Kim Back on Top at Inzai World Cup
  • Marieta Akalski Cranks in Spain, Sends Florida (5.14b)
  • Vandalism Across National Parks
  • Sonnie Trotter Establishes His Hardest Trad Climb - Family Man (5.14b)
  • Climber Dies in Fall at Zion National Park
  • Pete Whittaker Flashes Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • Déjà Vu for Women, Ghisolfi Gets First Gold
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Sends Mecca Extension (5.14b)
  • J-Star is Livin' Astro (5.14c)
  • Alex Huber Establishes 10-Pitch Alpine 5.14b
  • Bouldering in Namibia
  • Hukkataival Puts Up "One of the Best Boulders" He's Ever Climbed
  • Surprise in Korea: Ondra Out of Finals, Nice Wins for Schubert and Markovic
  • Scott Cosgrove Gravely Injured
  • Updated! Back-to-Back Strong Sends for Angela Eiter
  • DiGiulian and Marin Send 1,000-Foot 5.14 in Sardinia
  • Fabian Buhl Expands Repertoire With Six-Pitch Silbergeier (5.14a)
  • New Four-Pitch Mixed Testpiece in Utah
  • Katharina Saurwein Becomes Third Woman to Send Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • VIDEO: Mark Heal Makes FA of Holy Rails Sit (V13) in Tuolumne
  • Two V14s in a Day for Dave Graham
  • Oakdale Climbers Festival Themed "A Woman's Reach"
  • Avalanche Kills Two On 8,000m Himalayan Peak
  • Fred Nicole Sends The Escapist (V14)
  • Canadian Crusher Marieta Akalski Storms Rifle, Sends Her First 5.14a
  • The Naked Edge Done in 26 Minutes, See Video Clip
  • Mountain Guide Latest IS Victim
  • Daniel Woods Bags First Ascent at 14,000 Feet
  • VIDEO: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein Rip It Up in RMNP
  • Lee Sheftel Climbs 5.13b at 68 Years Old
  • Alex Puccio Sends Her Second V14, Wheel of Chaos
  • Brette Harrington Makes Second Female Ascent of the Trad Route Shadow (5.13a)
  • Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle Climb New Route in Yosemite
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Wheel of Chaos (V14) In A Day
  • VIDEO: The Psychology of Climbing Champion Ramón Julián
  • World Cup Climber Sean McColl Dominates American Ninja Warrior
  • Jonathan Siegrist Develops Hard Routes in Idaho
  • Alex Megos Sends His Longest Project Yet—Geocache
  • Climber Dies From Fall On Mount Garfield, Washington
  • Q&A: Yuji Hirayama Wants More UK Trad
  • VIDEO: Inside the Mind of a Free Soloist - Tom Randall Goes Ropeless
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends V15 Project in Australia
  • James Pearson Flashes Something’s Burning (5.13d X) in Wales
  • Yuji Hirayama Sends 5.13+ R Trad Testpiece
  • Chris Bonington, 80, Sends Old Man of Hoy for his Birthday
  • Alex Puccio's Outdoor Climbing Pays Off At Arco
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Speed Intégrale (5.14d)
  • Ondra Dominates Bouldering Championships, Puccio Takes Silver
  • Alex Honnold Talks About the Risk of Free Soloing
  • Climber Dies in Tuolumne Meadows
  • Alex Puccio Climbs The Automator (V13)
  • Urs Moosmuller Climbs Fathers Day (5.14a) on Gear
  • Q&A: Beat Kammerlander Still Runs It Out
  • Buhrfeind and McColl Win 2014 Psicobloc Masters
  • Famed Utah Tower Falls
  • Angie Payne Gets Freaky with Her Second V13
  • Alex Puccio Sends Jade (V14)
  • Nina Caprez Redpoints All Pitches on Orbayu (5.14b)
  • First All-Female Nepalese Team Summits K2
  • Interview: Alex Megos Climbs Slow, But Sends Fast
  • VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero Claims His 2nd V14
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Respected Climber Falls 50 Feet and Dies at Cathedral Ledge
  • Coxsey and Caballero Climb V14
  • Ashima Shiraishi, 13, Becomes Second Female to Climb V14
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Baa Baa Black Sheep (5.14b/c)
  • Alex Puccio Sends Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder Climbs Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in a Downpour
  • Q&A: Sam Elias and Mike Kerzhner Fire 3rd Ascent of El Cap's PreMuir (5.13+)
  • Austin Siadak Solos Evolution Traverse in a Day
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees Multi-Pitch 5.14a in Zillertal, Austria
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero flashes his first V11 in South Africa
  • Kyle Vassilopoulos Establishes 130-Foot 5.14 at Wolf Point
  • Hukkataival Climbs Alpine Sport Testpiece Sibergeier (5.14a)
  • Chattanooga's Take on Buildering
  • Alex Megos Frees 20-Pitch 5.14b in Switzerland
  • Trotter, Caldwell, Wharton Put Up Six-Pitch Route in Sicily
  • Jes Meiris Beats Female Solo Speed Record of the Nose by 4 Days
  • Eitan Green, 28, Remembered
  • Kilian Jornet Smashes Speed Record on Denali
  • 7-Up: Honnold and Allfrey Climb 7 El Cap Routes in 7 Days
  • How To Be a Xena of Rock Climbing
  • Vail World Cup Comp Report: Noguchi repeats from last weekend, Sharafutdinov from last time at Vail
  • Emily Harrington Runs It Out to Send Tom et Je Ris (5.14a)
  • David Mason Sends 20 Problems (V11-V13) in Vastervik, Sweden
  • Mark Anderson Establishes the Hardest Route at Independence Pass
  • Six Presumed Dead After 3,000-Foot Fall On Mount Rainier
  • Q&A: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 10 New River Gorge 5.14s in One Month
  • Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper Climb Major New Route in Alaska
  • Dean Potter Responds to Criticism About Flying with His Dog
  • New Yosemite Classic: First Free Ascent of The Unemployment Line (5.12-)
  • Alex Luger Frees "Psycho" 5.14 Trad Route
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Makes First Female Ascent of Wallstreet (5.14b)
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Jour de Chasse (V15) in 15 minutes
  • Ondra Climbs Two 5.14ds and One 5.15a - Plus Amazing Send Footage
  • Interview: Megos Sends Another 5.14d in Two Hours
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle Gives Some Love to Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Emotional Landscapes (V15)
  • Ondra Onsights Il Domani (5.14d)
  • Interview: Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit: Hardest in the World?
  • Special Report: Enough Misinformation, The Truth of Everest
  • Adam Ondra Climbs Two 5.14d’s While Training for the World Cup
  • Wharton Frees Hallucinogen in A Day
  • A Tribute To Our Brother, Ankaji Sherpa
  • 14-Year-Old Kai Lightner Climbs Lucifer (5.14c)
  • Jimmy Webb Climbs Multiple V15s in Magic Wood, Switzerland
  • Fransico “Novato” Marín Is the Oldest Person in the World to Climb 5.14a
  • Rad Video: Mirko Caballero Climbing Meadowlark Lemon
  • Save Getu Climbing From Destruction
  • Jan Hojer Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) and Big Kat (V14)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes 5.14 Testpiece at Quality Arizona Crag
  • Alpine Ascent of the Season: Lindic and Krajnc Free Rolling Stones
  • Shauna Coxsey Climbs Her Second V13 in Albarracín, Spain
  • Video: Rok Klancnik Makes Third Ascent of Bügeleisen (V14/15)
  • Hazel Findlay Becomes the First British Woman to Climb 5.14b
  • Sasha DiGiulian Climbs Red Bull Stadium
  • David Roetzel Solos 15 Pitches of Hard Ice in One Day
  • Ueli Steck's Solo, Slawinsky and Welsted's K6 Ascent Win Piolets d'Or
  • Is Bishop World Class? Niccolò Ceria Says Don’t Believe The Hype
  • Dani Arnold Free Solos 1,100-Foot WI 6 in 27 Minutes!
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Switzerland
  • Mirko Caballero Becomes Youngest Person to Climb V14
  • Katy Whittaker Climbs China Crisis (5.14a)
  • Sean "Stanley" Leary Killed BASE Jumping
  • Red Flag! Help protect access to the Red River Gorge’s most popular crag.
  • American Climbers Crush in Switzerland
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    Video Spotlight
    Climb Like Sharma: Part 2 - Limits and Fears
    Climb Like Sharma: Part 2 - Limits and Fears

    Sharma to Chouinard in a Weekend

    18-Feb-2014
    By

    A surprise visit from Chris Sharma was a bonus at the Climbers' Gathering in the new Earth Treks in Golden, Colorado. Photo by Kirsten Ellis.Bunched in a back office at Earth Treks were Chelsea Rude, Jon Cardwell, Paul Robinson, and, among others, Lynn Hill and Chris Sharma. For those last two, onetime world champions in climbing, you could argue that there was no upside to participating in a local competition, but they are pros. And genial. Sharma was so genial, in fact, that he didn’t warm up, and a few sips of beer may even have passed his lips. He was to be a surprise bonus at the event.

    Somehow, reluctantly, I—citizen I—was here as well, along with Madaleine Sorkin, Angie Payne, and other climbing lights from various genres, all clustered around Carol the organizer as she frowned at her clipboard and tried to divide us into roughly equal teams, one for this brand-new Earth Treks gym, and one for the American Alpine Club, whose offices are nearby in Golden, Colorado.

    “Well, Alison’s probably not very strong,” she said audibly, and moved me from the AAC column to the Earth Treks’, apparently as a handicap.

    This was not exactly your normal comp, but someone must have asked about scoring.

    “I think it should be completely subjective,” put in Angie Payne. “It should be for style, height and hair color.”

    Carol tried to hand Chris a shirt. The AAC team wore baby blue, the Earth Trekkers red.

    Chris already had on a shirt, a verdant green technical type. “Isn’t this OK?” he asked in his sweet Sharma way, and of course was allowed to stay in whatever he wanted. Chris could be the Green Team.

    I was told to go first, except that I couldn’t because Brittany Griffith, sponsored athlete-ambassador, had just jacked my harness. Guess she doesn’t have many contacts in the climbing industry (she is only married to Jonathan Thesenga of Black Diamond). So Carol called Phil Powers to go first, which served him right.

    It had all started weeks before when Phil, AAC executive director, asked several people “our age” who are active climbers to be part of a “fun comp” at this Climbers’ Gathering in Earth Trek’s new $6 million facility in Golden. Phil was participating, and Mark Kroese and Steve Swenson, our contemporaries, agreed. But Mark and Steve had somehow melted away, and were having beer and chatting among friends in the audience. I had just had to leave off climbing with George Lowe, a rare treat, to come back to the competitors’ meeting. That afternoon, I had made a last effort to get out of the comp, but Phil asked me to stay and keep him company.

    Happy winners: Madaleine Sorkin, Carol Kotchek, Jamie Logan, Phil Powers, Lynn Hill, Jon Cardwell and Chris Sharma rocking his own team shirt. Photo by Kirsten Ellis.It was, further, a day, a week, in which I felt overloaded: trying, among too many other things, to catch up after a trip East to teach a class on Mountain Literature.

    With more and more snow coming, I’d left home, four hours away, on Thursday afternoon, hitting standstill traffic on the passes, to stay at my friend’s house in Golden. There I piled my stuff into the wrong room, and the cat kept attacking the door. Meanwhile an old friend from Seattle had reserved us a room Friday and Saturday at the Denver Sheraton, venue for the AAC annual dinner, but suddenly had to get her gall bladder out. Stuck with the room, I somehow assumed the board meeting, as it often is, would be at the venue. I got up before 7, fought traffic into Denver, and arrived at the hotel only to find that the meeting wasn’t there at all, but naturally back at the AAC facility in Golden.

    At the comp, we could pick from one of three routes of varying difficulty. I picked the easiest, climbed and fell, then got to socialize again. Jamie Logan, age 67, came out and flashed our route, at the top adding a discretionary and very crowd-pleasing dyno. The tiny Lynn Hill, apparently unable to reach a hold on the main roof, wheeled completely around to bat-hook it with her feet, then twisted over to palm it. As she established herself, an onlooker asked in wonder and confusion, “What just happened?”

    Sharma came out, unveiled, and summarily flashed the hardest route, which we’d been told was 5.14.

    The AAC Team ultimately prevailed.

    “How did you do it?” the ebullient MC’s Cedar Wright and Timmy O’Neill asked Phil.

    Said Phil, deadpan, “We cheated.”

    They brought out a gold-buckled hero’s belt for him, and somehow, for some reason, gave George Lowe a pair of gold-spray-painted skivvies, which he obligingly pulled on over his climbing pants, a sight that apparently startled his teenage daughter when he later came strolling into the house after the party.

    The next day I went to the first-ever joint board meeting of the AAC and the Access Fund, which in fact was held at the Sheraton, so I got something right. I then moderated a panel of women speakers. And that night we heard a retrospective from Yvon Chouinard, introduced by Hans Florine, who wore one of the original brightly striped rugby shirts from Chouinard’s company Patagonia. Florine said, “Yvon introduced environmental concerns to the business world.”

    Chouinard began, “All I can do is tell you a few stories that I still remember.”

    And he did. We knew the gist: that he was French Canadian, that he’d originally begun rappelling out of an interest in falconry (the first climber he ever saw came up and passed him in a chimney).

    I didn’t know that he arrived in California unable to speak anything but French. “I couldn’t speak English and was the shortest kid in school,” he said. “I ran away … and immediately took my own path the rest of my life.”

    Herewith, some excerpts from “YC.”

    Thanks for the memories. Yvon Chouinard chuckles during his keynote speech at the AAC's Annual Benefit Dinner. Photo by Lee Pruitt.Of himself at 12 with an enormous bird perched on a leather band on his arm, he said: “This is a red-tailed hawk I used to fly on housecats.”

    Of his business: “The reason I started this little shop is I wanted to make some pitons. … the best kind of business to be in is where you make addicts of your customers.” He sold them out of his car, and eventually started his business Chouinard Equipment. Later realizing that the pitons were harming the rocks, he and his partner, Tom Frost, superseded their most popular product with “clean” chockstones.

    Of the North American Wall, then the last big face on El Cap, done in 1964 with Tom Frost and Chuck Pratt: “It was pretty intimidating, it overhangs the whole way. I’m lookin’ pretty smug [in this photo] but I’m totally freaked out.”

    Of Don Whillans: “He was the Artful Dodger. In fact, I had to fire him. He just would not work, at all.”

    Of Fred Beckey (with whom he did the North Face of Mount Edith Cavell in Alberta and the very long Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser Tower, in the Bugaboos of British Columbia, 1961): “He taught me how to go to a diner and run off with the creams and ketchup. He was the first dirtbag. My wife looked it up on Google, and ‘dirtbag’ comes from Yosemite.”

    And Warren Harding, with whom he and Pratt climbed the South Face Route, Mount Watkins, Yosemite: “He had a perfect memory” for a pitch and the exact hardware required to climb it.

    He also noted that Harding, in his 40s, still lived with his mother. Of the time when Harding spent a daring, dogged 45 days on the first ascent of the Nose route, El Capitan: “Someone interviewed his mother, and she said, ‘This is the longest Warren’s ever been away from home!’”

    And last: “The times I went to Yosemite were the absolutely greatest times of my life. Talk about cheap living … completely outside of normal society, living on the edge. There was a lot of fat on the land. That’s probably never going to happen again.”

    I saw hundreds of friends, and then I struggled home the next day. Even the radio announcer was saying the roads were "horrendous" and not to be on them if you didn't have to. But things were only freezing up worse, so I just did it. Was it all worth it? It always is.

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