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  • Choosing Between C4s and Friends
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  • Can I Use Climbing Bolts For Anchors in a Gym?
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  • Shopping for Economy Carabiners
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  • Can I Trust Fixed Draws?
  • Which Helmet WIll Fit My Big Head?
  • Choosing Ice Screw Length
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  • Should I clip ice screws with Screamers?
  • How do I Make a Bomber Anchor?
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  • Hot Versus Cold Forging
  • Caring For Your FIngertips
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  • When to Replace Climbing Webbing
  • Using Grip Dip To Color Code Gear
  • The Benefits of Cotton
  • How to Pull a Rappel Rope
  • How to Properly Orient a Carabiner Gate
  • Are My Fuzzy Quickdraws Safe?
  • How to Stretch Climbing Shoes
  • Are 1/2-inch bolts really better than 3/8-inch?
  • Should I Resole My Rock Shoes?
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  • Dealing With an Argumentative Partner
  • Will Antifreeze Ruin Rope?
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  • Rock Shoes For a Big Guy
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  • How to Wash a Rope
  • Do Cam Teeth Do Anything?
  • Can I Fix Delaminated Rock Shoes?
  • Can I Mix a Static With a Dynamic Rope for Rappelling?
  • Should You Lower Or Rap Through Anchors?
  • Should You Clip the Belay As Your First Lead Pro?
  • How Should The Middle Man Tie In?
  • How Do I Get a Good Climbing Man?
  • Do Falls Weaken Bolts?
  • Should I Rope Solo?
  • Should I Angle Ice Screws Down?
  • How Should Old Climbers Train?
  • Can I Make a Belay Loop?
  • Reusiing Ice Screw Holes
  • Overcoming Fear of Falling
  • Choosing a Stove Fuel
  • Will My Hiking Boots Work With Crampons?
  • Do Heavy People Shock Load the Rope?
  • Can Offset Cams Subsitute for Regular Cams?
  • Can I Resling My Cams Myself?
  • Are Older Alien Cams Safe?
  • Antifreeze
  • The Truth About Climbing Supplements
  • Can I Make My Leashed Tools, Leashless?
  • Rope Stretch Facts
  • How To Cut a Rope Without a Knife
  • Secrets of the Toprope
  • How to Sharpen Crampons
  • Should I Become a Climbing Guide?
  • Preventing Climbing Rope Wear
  • How to Remove an Old Bolt
  • How to Customize Ice Tool Picks
  • Double Rope Facts
  • Do It Yourself Fruit Boots
  • Climbing Rope Sheath Slippage
  • Rockfall Safety
  • Do Screamers Work?
  • Defining the Cheater Stick and Stick Clip
  • Climbing Skin Care
  • Selecting a Gym Rope
  • Quick Links for Climbing
  • Are Russian Cams Good?
  • When To Retire Climbing Gear and Ropes
  • Should I Get a Link Cam?
  • How to Get a Climbing Mate
  • Will Dog Urine Harm My Rope?
  • Using Steel Carabiners for Fixed Quickdraws
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  • Video Spotlight
    Death Wish Second Ascent
    Death Wish Second Ascent

    Should I Get a Link Cam?

    15-Dec-2009
    By Gear Guy

    I am considering getting an Omega Pacific Link Cam #2. Currently, I have three Metolius Master Cams and Metolius TCUs from size 1 to 8. I know the Link Cam is great for flaring cracks or as a great secondary cam, but how is it as a regular cam? Please state if you own a Link Cam and, if so which size.

    Sounds like you are climbing in Lilliput—all of your cams are tiny little beggars. Without my knowing where you climb, the type of climbing you do and your approximate lead ability, any gear recommendation would be as reckless as prescribing medicine without a diagnosis. But I’ll do it anyway.

    Based on the current state of your rack, I’ll guess you climb somewhere like the Gunks, where you often nurse micro cams into horizontal creases and pods, or you frequent the Creek and run laps on Fingers in a Light Socket. Either way, the Link Cam #2 would be a worthy addition to your rack. Normally, due to the various color codings and unit range overlaps, I don’t recommend mixing cam brands anymore than mixing Laphroaig 18-year with Listerine. But in this case the Link Cam in question will pick up where your largest Metolius cam leaves off, at 1.89 inches. The #2 Link Cam will fill that 2- to 2.5-inch void of thin to snug hands where you are definitely hurting, as well as cover the entire range of that Master Cam.

    I have all four Link Cams. I’ve used the #1 and #2, and use the latter the most. I just received the .5 and .75 and am in the process of testing them. The Link Cams are an amazing bit of engineering. I like them and carry them on my rack, sometimes as stand-alones, and sometimes as complements to a full rack of another brand. The Link Cams’ crazy-wide range almost guarantees that they’ll always fit, and they grab in extreme flares and funky-shaped placements—I’ve found plenty of spots where Link Cams were the only units that would work. If I was heading up any aid route or trad gear line I’d make sure I had the Link Cams on board. At places like Indian Creek where the cracks are uniform, the placements are straightforward and you need multiples of every cam size, the advantages offered by the Link Cams diminish, but I still wouldn’t hesitate to use them.

    Link Cams are heavier, are more expensive and have more moving parts (keep them clean!). I’ve never had a problem with them, though, and haven’t minded or even noticed the weight, probably because I’ve just been carrying the two units. Next!

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