• Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • The Training Effect: Methods by Steve House
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Catch of the Day
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Cheap Tricks
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Training While Hungry
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Training With an Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Death Wish Second Ascent
    Death Wish Second Ascent

    Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering


    What is the optimal ratio of rest days to climbing days to train specifically for bouldering?

    —Dan Gerber | Orlando, FL

    If you consider that mainstream training literature emphasizes the importance of a full recovery between strength workouts, and add the fact that boulderers don’t need to worry about fitting endurance training into their schedules, then a picture emerges that any training day should be followed by a rest day. But training for climbing often refuses to fit the rulebook. Imagine a sport scientist trying to tell Dave Graham or Chris Sharma that they should spend half their lives resting in order to get strong!

    Most elite boulderers climb three or four days in a row and some may climb for considerably more before taking a rest day. In keeping such a pace, two things need to be considered: the first is that it takes time to be able to cope with this amount of training and the second is to vary the sessions to prevent overtraining.

    It would be disastrous for beginners and intermediates to suddenly switch to the program of an elite boulderer. If you currently boulder day-on, day-off, then try increasing to two days-on, one day-off and monitor your progress. Initially, you’ll feel worked on the second day, but before long you will find that you are able to cope and that you can still be strong and productive. At this point you can consider increasing to three-on, one-off, but intitially, try making the second day an active recovery session where you climb only easy and mid-grade problems.

    A popular structure for those doing a consecutive four days on is: campusing and bar exercises on the first day, followed by a bouldering day, then an active recovery day with mileage on easier problems, followed by another moderate day, then rest. Another popular structure is to do steep juggy problems on day one and then lower-angled, fingery problems the next day. A third alternative is short problems with maximum difficulty moves on day one, followed by longer problems with slightly easier moves on day two. The key is to do relatively short, high-quality sessions with regular breaks and to stop before you get to the point where you feel completely thrashed.

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