• Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Building a Better Climber - The Rock and Ice Training Series
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    GII The way up to the summit (part 2)
    GII The way up to the summit (part 2)

    Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering

    02-Feb-2010
    By

    What is the optimal ratio of rest days to climbing days to train specifically for bouldering?

    —Dan Gerber | Orlando, FL

    If you consider that mainstream training literature emphasizes the importance of a full recovery between strength workouts, and add the fact that boulderers don’t need to worry about fitting endurance training into their schedules, then a picture emerges that any training day should be followed by a rest day. But training for climbing often refuses to fit the rulebook. Imagine a sport scientist trying to tell Dave Graham or Chris Sharma that they should spend half their lives resting in order to get strong!

    Most elite boulderers climb three or four days in a row and some may climb for considerably more before taking a rest day. In keeping such a pace, two things need to be considered: the first is that it takes time to be able to cope with this amount of training and the second is to vary the sessions to prevent overtraining.

    It would be disastrous for beginners and intermediates to suddenly switch to the program of an elite boulderer. If you currently boulder day-on, day-off, then try increasing to two days-on, one day-off and monitor your progress. Initially, you’ll feel worked on the second day, but before long you will find that you are able to cope and that you can still be strong and productive. At this point you can consider increasing to three-on, one-off, but intitially, try making the second day an active recovery session where you climb only easy and mid-grade problems.

    A popular structure for those doing a consecutive four days on is: campusing and bar exercises on the first day, followed by a bouldering day, then an active recovery day with mileage on easier problems, followed by another moderate day, then rest. Another popular structure is to do steep juggy problems on day one and then lower-angled, fingery problems the next day. A third alternative is short problems with maximum difficulty moves on day one, followed by longer problems with slightly easier moves on day two. The key is to do relatively short, high-quality sessions with regular breaks and to stop before you get to the point where you feel completely thrashed.

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