• Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • The Training Effect: Methods by Steve House
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Catch of the Day
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Cheap Tricks
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Training While Hungry
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Training With an Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Andy Houseman on Denali's Slovak Direct
    Andy Houseman on Denali's Slovak Direct

    Resting the Perfect Amount

    15-Dec-2009
    By

    How long should I rest between burns?  —Tim Stitch | Santa Fe, NM

    There is a big difference between resting for routes or boulder problems at the crag and resting between bursts during training. Often in training you will deliberately work on reduced recovery times, but at the crag you need to strike a balance between allowing maximum recovery and preventing yourself from cooling down. It’s difficult to generalize, as recovery rates vary according to fitness levels, however, there is a very general formula that you can adapt to your needs: For routes, rest one minute for every move you complete successfully, and for boulder problems, two minutes. If you are not feeling fit then you can lengthen this to one-and-a-half minutes per move for routes and two-and-a-half minutes for bouldering. Note that for routes, no matter how tall, it is inadvisable to rest for any longer than an hour. For rest stints of between 45 minutes and an hour, you should do an easy route to warm-up again before your next attempt. On the same theme, it is highly recommended to do some easy climbing shortly after a failed attempt on a route to help flush out lactic acid. A few reps on a light squeeze ball provide an alternative. Drink plenty of fluids during the break, and stay clear of heavy foods. An energy bar or piece of fruit will do the trick. For bouldering, I recommend a 15-minute break after every 20 minutes of hard climbing, as this will enable you to sustain your power for as long as possible.

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