• Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Building a Better Climber - The Rock and Ice Training Series
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Sam Elias Big Fall on Ice at Ouray
    Sam Elias Big Fall on Ice at Ouray

    Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!

    29-Jan-2010
    By

    I want to climb my first 5.13a but I keep getting bouted by the redpoint demons. Last year I abandoned a project because, after six days of effort, I started getting worse on it. Surely once you have a route really wired, after the first four or five days, then it either comes down to strength, fitness, or the luck of the dice? Do you have any tips for beating redpoint head stress?  Ed Sams | Providence, RI

    I agree that after four or five days, it often feels like you have the route wired, but refinements keep coming long after this. Even if you “know” the moves, there is almost infinite scope for executing them more efficiently. There is a point on some routes when redpointing simply comes down to fitness, but the metabolic reserves in the tank are usually much deeper than many people realize.

    I can see why you think that luck might be involved. Almost every sport climber can recall a time when a successful redpoint came under the most unlikely conditions, perhaps when skin was thin or temperatures were poor and all hope had been abandoned. These experiences can leave you feeling as if you were simply lucky. Your success, however, is actually attributed to a temporary release from the prison of expectation. The ability to stay relaxed and positive is the most significant factor in redpointing—the most successful redpointers such as Steve McClure and Chris Sharma are also incredibly chilled-out characters who can enjoy the process without becoming fixated on the result. If the top dogs can clock up 30 or 40 days to send, then surely we can rise to seven or eight? I realize that it is a contradiction to ask you not to be that bothered about something that you desperately want, but this is exactly what you must do. In addition to letting go of expectations here are some concrete tips:

    • Over-work the route—don’t start your redpoint attempts until it’s almost a done deal. Wait until you’re ready and then work it one more time.
    • Do links from the top down. For example, climb it clean from half height to the top, then from a third of the way up to the top and then from quarter height to the top. This reinforces success rather than starting from the base every time and experiencing failure near the top.
    • Do other climbs. Take a break from your project and redpoint other routes, especially those of complementary style.

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