• Rock Climbing Training: How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber - The Rock and Ice Training Series
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
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  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
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  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
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    Sport Climbing Basics
    Sport Climbing Basics

    Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!

    29-Jan-2010
    By

    I want to climb my first 5.13a but I keep getting bouted by the redpoint demons. Last year I abandoned a project because, after six days of effort, I started getting worse on it. Surely once you have a route really wired, after the first four or five days, then it either comes down to strength, fitness, or the luck of the dice? Do you have any tips for beating redpoint head stress?  Ed Sams | Providence, RI

    I agree that after four or five days, it often feels like you have the route wired, but refinements keep coming long after this. Even if you “know” the moves, there is almost infinite scope for executing them more efficiently. There is a point on some routes when redpointing simply comes down to fitness, but the metabolic reserves in the tank are usually much deeper than many people realize.

    I can see why you think that luck might be involved. Almost every sport climber can recall a time when a successful redpoint came under the most unlikely conditions, perhaps when skin was thin or temperatures were poor and all hope had been abandoned. These experiences can leave you feeling as if you were simply lucky. Your success, however, is actually attributed to a temporary release from the prison of expectation. The ability to stay relaxed and positive is the most significant factor in redpointing—the most successful redpointers such as Steve McClure and Chris Sharma are also incredibly chilled-out characters who can enjoy the process without becoming fixated on the result. If the top dogs can clock up 30 or 40 days to send, then surely we can rise to seven or eight? I realize that it is a contradiction to ask you not to be that bothered about something that you desperately want, but this is exactly what you must do. In addition to letting go of expectations here are some concrete tips:

    • Over-work the route—don’t start your redpoint attempts until it’s almost a done deal. Wait until you’re ready and then work it one more time.
    • Do links from the top down. For example, climb it clean from half height to the top, then from a third of the way up to the top and then from quarter height to the top. This reinforces success rather than starting from the base every time and experiencing failure near the top.
    • Do other climbs. Take a break from your project and redpoint other routes, especially those of complementary style.

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