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The Rock and Ice Survey of Your Body, Mind and Soul

04-Feb-2011
By

BODY

1. Do you train for climbing?

  • Yes. 73%
  • No. 27%

2. How often do you train?

  • 1-2 hours/week. 19%
  • 3-4 hours/week. 30%
  • 5-8 hours/week. 33%
  • 9-12 hours/week. 13%
  • 12 hours/week. 5% (100% are male.)

**24% of those who train the least and 24% of those who train the most have been injured training.

3. When did you last train?

  • Today. 30%
  • 2 days ago. 41%
  • 1 week ago. 15%
  • 2-3 months ago. 8%

4. Are you getting stronger?

  • Yes. 84%
  • No. 16%

5. Is your climbing improving?

  • Yes. 91%
  • No. 9%

6. Have you ever been injured climbing and required a doctor?

  • Yes. 40%
  • No. 60%

7. Have you been injured training and required a doctor?

  • Yes. 28%
  • No. 72%

8. What are the odds you will be seriously injured climbing?

  • 0% chance. 2%
  • 1-10% chance. 48%
  • 11-20% chance. 23%
  • 21-40% chance. 12%
  • 41-50% chance. 11%
  • 51-75% chance. 2%
  • 76-99% chance. 0.9%
  • 1% I will be seriously injured.* (*100% have health insurance.)

9. Do you have health insurance?

  • Yes. 85%
  • No. 15%

10. Do you take supplements for tendon or joint health?

  • Yes. 29%
  • No. 71%

11. Do you believe these supplements work?

  • Yes. 56%
  • No. 44%

12. Do you know for sure they work?

  • Yes. 29% (94% say their climbing is improving.)
  • No. 71%

13. Do you take supplements to improve your climbing?

  • Yes. 15%
  • No. 85%
==

14. Do you believe supplements work?

  • Yes. 45%
  • No. 55%

15. Do you know for sure supplements work?

  • Yes. 32% (93% say their climbing is improving.)
  • No. 68%

16. Do you drink alcohol?

  • Yes. 81%
  • No. 19% (93% say their climbing is improving.)

17. How many drinks do you consume in a week?

  • 1. 23.1%
  • 2-4. 35%
  • 5-7. 23%
  • 8-14. 15%
  • 15-28. 4%

18. Do you smoke tobacco?

  • Yes. 8%
  • No. 92%

19. Do you smoke marijuana (reefer!)?

  • Yes. 19%
  • No. 81%

20. Do you take anti-inflammatories?

  • Yes. 37%
  • No. 63%

21. If you could change one thing about your body to improve your climbing, what would it be?

  • Smaller fingers. 2%
  • Less belly fat. 25%
  • Less ass fat. 3%
  • Stronger legs. 6%
  • Skin that doesn't sweat. 9%
  • Skin that doesn't tear. 11%
  • Bigger lungs. 5%
  • Millions of suction cups on my fingertips. (One person wrote this in. Genius!)

22. Does climbing improve your health?

  • Yes. 97%
  • No. 3%

MIND

1. Which is stronger, your body or mind?

  • Body. 35%
  • Mind. 65%

2. Is your mind or body most likely to cause you to fail?

  • Mind. 67% (52% mentally train)
  • Body. 33%

3. Do you mentally train?

  • Yes. 49%
  • No. 51%

4. Does fear of failure cause you to fail?

  • Yes. 29%
  • No. 71%

5. If you had more money and time, could you climb 5.14?

  • Yes. 47% (51% lead 5.11 or easier; 6% don't lead at all.)
  • No. 50%
  • I already climb 5.14. 3%
==

SOUL

1. What are the chances you will be killed climbing?

  • I will be killed climbing. (0.3%)
  • 75-99% chance. (0.7%)
  • 51-75% chance. (1%)
  • 41-50% chance. (3%)
  • 21-40% chance. (4%)
  • 11-20% chance. (9%)
  • 1-10% chance. (70%)
  • I will not be killed climbing. (12%)

2. Do you have life insurance?

  • Yes. 53%
  • No. 47%

3. Do you ever solo without a rope?

  • Yes. 33% (10% believe they will be killed.)
  • No. 67%

4. Do you believe in an afterlife?

  • Yes. 39%
  • No. 61%

5. If yes, will you go to heaven or hell?

  • Heaven. 86%
  • Hell. 14%
  • (65% didn't know, and skipped the question)

Just the Facts

1. How old are you?

  • 20 and under. 6%
  • 21-24. 15% (majority lead 5.10 to 5.11; 17% smoke weed)
  • 25-35. 42%
  • 35-44. 20%
  • 40-54. 14%
  • 55. 4% (All lead 5.10 to 5.11; 69% smoke weed)

2. Male or female?

  • 75% male
  • 25% female

3. How do you climb?

  • Trad. 69%
  • Sport. 89%
  • Boulder. 74%
  • Gym. 83%
  • Ice. 27%
  • Mixed. 11%
  • High-altitude mountaineering. 13%
  • Peak bag. 13%

4. Lead ability

  • 5.5-5.7. 5%
  • 5.8-5.9. 15%
  • 5.10. 22%
  • 5.11. 22%
  • 5.12. 17%
  • 5.13. 13%
  • 5.14. 3%

We know that the more you train the harder you climb, but by how much?

  • 1% of people who don't train climb 5.14 and most lead 5.10 and easier-®the same goes if you train only 1-2 hours a week.
  • Up your training to 3-8 hours a week and you'll lead 5.11 and up.
  • Train 9-12 hours and 68% of you will lead 5.12 and up, and 11% will do 5.14.
  • Put in 11 hours and 57% lead 5.13.
  • Yo! Not a single one-drink-a-weeker can climb 5.14 and only 14% lead 5.13.
  • 9% of the heaviest boozers lead 5.14, and 36% lead 5.13.
  • 50% of pot heads climb 5.12 and up, while 29% of the non smokers climb 5.12 and up.

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