Table of Contents
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Basic Aid Technique
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Can't Lose with the Anti-Inflammatory Diet
  • Catch of the Day
  • Cheap Tricks
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How To Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • How to Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • How to Rappel
  • How To Recover On Route
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • The First Sport
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Training While Hungry
  • Training With an Injury
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Catch of the Day
  • Cheap Tricks
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Climbing Protection
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How To Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • How to Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • How to Rappel
  • How To Recover On Route
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Training While Hungry
  • Training With an Injury
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Can't Lose with the Anti-Inflammatory Diet
  • Cheap Tricks
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How to Climb Safe: Spotting for Bouldering
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • How To Recover On Route
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Knee: ACL Reconstruction
  • Leg: Fracture
  • Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Training While Hungry
  • Training With an Injury
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Can't Lose with the Anti-Inflammatory Diet
  • Catch of the Day
  • Cheap Tricks
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How To Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • How to Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • How to Rappel
  • How To Recover On Route
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Training While Hungry
  • Training With an Injury
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Last Day, Best Day in Hueco Tanks (RV Project Episode 5)
    Last Day, Best Day in Hueco Tanks (RV Project Episode 5)

    The Rock and Ice Survey of Your Body, Mind and Soul

    04-Feb-2011
    By

    BODY

    1. Do you train for climbing?

    • Yes. 73%
    • No. 27%

    2. How often do you train?

    • 1-2 hours/week. 19%
    • 3-4 hours/week. 30%
    • 5-8 hours/week. 33%
    • 9-12 hours/week. 13%
    • 12 hours/week. 5% (100% are male.)

    **24% of those who train the least and 24% of those who train the most have been injured training.

    3. When did you last train?

    • Today. 30%
    • 2 days ago. 41%
    • 1 week ago. 15%
    • 2-3 months ago. 8%

    4. Are you getting stronger?

    • Yes. 84%
    • No. 16%

    5. Is your climbing improving?

    • Yes. 91%
    • No. 9%

    6. Have you ever been injured climbing and required a doctor?

    • Yes. 40%
    • No. 60%

    7. Have you been injured training and required a doctor?

    • Yes. 28%
    • No. 72%

    8. What are the odds you will be seriously injured climbing?

    • 0% chance. 2%
    • 1-10% chance. 48%
    • 11-20% chance. 23%
    • 21-40% chance. 12%
    • 41-50% chance. 11%
    • 51-75% chance. 2%
    • 76-99% chance. 0.9%
    • 1% I will be seriously injured.* (*100% have health insurance.)

    9. Do you have health insurance?

    • Yes. 85%
    • No. 15%

    10. Do you take supplements for tendon or joint health?

    • Yes. 29%
    • No. 71%

    11. Do you believe these supplements work?

    • Yes. 56%
    • No. 44%

    12. Do you know for sure they work?

    • Yes. 29% (94% say their climbing is improving.)
    • No. 71%

    13. Do you take supplements to improve your climbing?

    • Yes. 15%
    • No. 85%
    ==

    14. Do you believe supplements work?

    • Yes. 45%
    • No. 55%

    15. Do you know for sure supplements work?

    • Yes. 32% (93% say their climbing is improving.)
    • No. 68%

    16. Do you drink alcohol?

    • Yes. 81%
    • No. 19% (93% say their climbing is improving.)

    17. How many drinks do you consume in a week?

    • 1. 23.1%
    • 2-4. 35%
    • 5-7. 23%
    • 8-14. 15%
    • 15-28. 4%

    18. Do you smoke tobacco?

    • Yes. 8%
    • No. 92%

    19. Do you smoke marijuana (reefer!)?

    • Yes. 19%
    • No. 81%

    20. Do you take anti-inflammatories?

    • Yes. 37%
    • No. 63%

    21. If you could change one thing about your body to improve your climbing, what would it be?

    • Smaller fingers. 2%
    • Less belly fat. 25%
    • Less ass fat. 3%
    • Stronger legs. 6%
    • Skin that doesn't sweat. 9%
    • Skin that doesn't tear. 11%
    • Bigger lungs. 5%
    • Millions of suction cups on my fingertips. (One person wrote this in. Genius!)

    22. Does climbing improve your health?

    • Yes. 97%
    • No. 3%

    MIND

    1. Which is stronger, your body or mind?

    • Body. 35%
    • Mind. 65%

    2. Is your mind or body most likely to cause you to fail?

    • Mind. 67% (52% mentally train)
    • Body. 33%

    3. Do you mentally train?

    • Yes. 49%
    • No. 51%

    4. Does fear of failure cause you to fail?

    • Yes. 29%
    • No. 71%

    5. If you had more money and time, could you climb 5.14?

    • Yes. 47% (51% lead 5.11 or easier; 6% don't lead at all.)
    • No. 50%
    • I already climb 5.14. 3%
    ==

    SOUL

    1. What are the chances you will be killed climbing?

    • I will be killed climbing. (0.3%)
    • 75-99% chance. (0.7%)
    • 51-75% chance. (1%)
    • 41-50% chance. (3%)
    • 21-40% chance. (4%)
    • 11-20% chance. (9%)
    • 1-10% chance. (70%)
    • I will not be killed climbing. (12%)

    2. Do you have life insurance?

    • Yes. 53%
    • No. 47%

    3. Do you ever solo without a rope?

    • Yes. 33% (10% believe they will be killed.)
    • No. 67%

    4. Do you believe in an afterlife?

    • Yes. 39%
    • No. 61%

    5. If yes, will you go to heaven or hell?

    • Heaven. 86%
    • Hell. 14%
    • (65% didn't know, and skipped the question)

    Just the Facts

    1. How old are you?

    • 20 and under. 6%
    • 21-24. 15% (majority lead 5.10 to 5.11; 17% smoke weed)
    • 25-35. 42%
    • 35-44. 20%
    • 40-54. 14%
    • 55. 4% (All lead 5.10 to 5.11; 69% smoke weed)

    2. Male or female?

    • 75% male
    • 25% female

    3. How do you climb?

    • Trad. 69%
    • Sport. 89%
    • Boulder. 74%
    • Gym. 83%
    • Ice. 27%
    • Mixed. 11%
    • High-altitude mountaineering. 13%
    • Peak bag. 13%

    4. Lead ability

    • 5.5-5.7. 5%
    • 5.8-5.9. 15%
    • 5.10. 22%
    • 5.11. 22%
    • 5.12. 17%
    • 5.13. 13%
    • 5.14. 3%

    We know that the more you train the harder you climb, but by how much?

    • 1% of people who don't train climb 5.14 and most lead 5.10 and easier-®the same goes if you train only 1-2 hours a week.
    • Up your training to 3-8 hours a week and you'll lead 5.11 and up.
    • Train 9-12 hours and 68% of you will lead 5.12 and up, and 11% will do 5.14.
    • Put in 11 hours and 57% lead 5.13.
    • Yo! Not a single one-drink-a-weeker can climb 5.14 and only 14% lead 5.13.
    • 9% of the heaviest boozers lead 5.14, and 36% lead 5.13.
    • 50% of pot heads climb 5.12 and up, while 29% of the non smokers climb 5.12 and up.

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