Table of Contents
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Basic Aid Technique
  • Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Can't Lose with the Anti-Inflammatory Diet
  • Catch of the Day
  • Cheap Tricks
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How To Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • How to Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • How to Rappel
  • How To Recover On Route
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • The First Sport
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Training While Hungry
  • Training With an Injury
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Catch of the Day
  • Cheap Tricks
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Climbing Protection
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How To Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • How to Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • How to Rappel
  • How To Recover On Route
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Training While Hungry
  • Training With an Injury
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Can't Lose with the Anti-Inflammatory Diet
  • Cheap Tricks
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How to Climb Safe: Spotting for Bouldering
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • How To Recover On Route
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Knee: ACL Reconstruction
  • Leg: Fracture
  • Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Training While Hungry
  • Training With an Injury
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Can't Lose with the Anti-Inflammatory Diet
  • Catch of the Day
  • Cheap Tricks
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How To Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • How to Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • How to Rappel
  • How To Recover On Route
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Training While Hungry
  • Training With an Injury
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Video Spotlight
    2010 UBC Bouldering Championships...
    2010 UBC Bouldering Championships...

    The Rock and Ice Survey of Your Body, Mind and Soul

    04-Feb-2011
    By

    BODY

    1. Do you train for climbing?

    • Yes. 73%
    • No. 27%

    2. How often do you train?

    • 1-2 hours/week. 19%
    • 3-4 hours/week. 30%
    • 5-8 hours/week. 33%
    • 9-12 hours/week. 13%
    • 12 hours/week. 5% (100% are male.)

    **24% of those who train the least and 24% of those who train the most have been injured training.

    3. When did you last train?

    • Today. 30%
    • 2 days ago. 41%
    • 1 week ago. 15%
    • 2-3 months ago. 8%

    4. Are you getting stronger?

    • Yes. 84%
    • No. 16%

    5. Is your climbing improving?

    • Yes. 91%
    • No. 9%

    6. Have you ever been injured climbing and required a doctor?

    • Yes. 40%
    • No. 60%

    7. Have you been injured training and required a doctor?

    • Yes. 28%
    • No. 72%

    8. What are the odds you will be seriously injured climbing?

    • 0% chance. 2%
    • 1-10% chance. 48%
    • 11-20% chance. 23%
    • 21-40% chance. 12%
    • 41-50% chance. 11%
    • 51-75% chance. 2%
    • 76-99% chance. 0.9%
    • 1% I will be seriously injured.* (*100% have health insurance.)

    9. Do you have health insurance?

    • Yes. 85%
    • No. 15%

    10. Do you take supplements for tendon or joint health?

    • Yes. 29%
    • No. 71%

    11. Do you believe these supplements work?

    • Yes. 56%
    • No. 44%

    12. Do you know for sure they work?

    • Yes. 29% (94% say their climbing is improving.)
    • No. 71%

    13. Do you take supplements to improve your climbing?

    • Yes. 15%
    • No. 85%
    ==

    14. Do you believe supplements work?

    • Yes. 45%
    • No. 55%

    15. Do you know for sure supplements work?

    • Yes. 32% (93% say their climbing is improving.)
    • No. 68%

    16. Do you drink alcohol?

    • Yes. 81%
    • No. 19% (93% say their climbing is improving.)

    17. How many drinks do you consume in a week?

    • 1. 23.1%
    • 2-4. 35%
    • 5-7. 23%
    • 8-14. 15%
    • 15-28. 4%

    18. Do you smoke tobacco?

    • Yes. 8%
    • No. 92%

    19. Do you smoke marijuana (reefer!)?

    • Yes. 19%
    • No. 81%

    20. Do you take anti-inflammatories?

    • Yes. 37%
    • No. 63%

    21. If you could change one thing about your body to improve your climbing, what would it be?

    • Smaller fingers. 2%
    • Less belly fat. 25%
    • Less ass fat. 3%
    • Stronger legs. 6%
    • Skin that doesn't sweat. 9%
    • Skin that doesn't tear. 11%
    • Bigger lungs. 5%
    • Millions of suction cups on my fingertips. (One person wrote this in. Genius!)

    22. Does climbing improve your health?

    • Yes. 97%
    • No. 3%

    MIND

    1. Which is stronger, your body or mind?

    • Body. 35%
    • Mind. 65%

    2. Is your mind or body most likely to cause you to fail?

    • Mind. 67% (52% mentally train)
    • Body. 33%

    3. Do you mentally train?

    • Yes. 49%
    • No. 51%

    4. Does fear of failure cause you to fail?

    • Yes. 29%
    • No. 71%

    5. If you had more money and time, could you climb 5.14?

    • Yes. 47% (51% lead 5.11 or easier; 6% don't lead at all.)
    • No. 50%
    • I already climb 5.14. 3%
    ==

    SOUL

    1. What are the chances you will be killed climbing?

    • I will be killed climbing. (0.3%)
    • 75-99% chance. (0.7%)
    • 51-75% chance. (1%)
    • 41-50% chance. (3%)
    • 21-40% chance. (4%)
    • 11-20% chance. (9%)
    • 1-10% chance. (70%)
    • I will not be killed climbing. (12%)

    2. Do you have life insurance?

    • Yes. 53%
    • No. 47%

    3. Do you ever solo without a rope?

    • Yes. 33% (10% believe they will be killed.)
    • No. 67%

    4. Do you believe in an afterlife?

    • Yes. 39%
    • No. 61%

    5. If yes, will you go to heaven or hell?

    • Heaven. 86%
    • Hell. 14%
    • (65% didn't know, and skipped the question)

    Just the Facts

    1. How old are you?

    • 20 and under. 6%
    • 21-24. 15% (majority lead 5.10 to 5.11; 17% smoke weed)
    • 25-35. 42%
    • 35-44. 20%
    • 40-54. 14%
    • 55. 4% (All lead 5.10 to 5.11; 69% smoke weed)

    2. Male or female?

    • 75% male
    • 25% female

    3. How do you climb?

    • Trad. 69%
    • Sport. 89%
    • Boulder. 74%
    • Gym. 83%
    • Ice. 27%
    • Mixed. 11%
    • High-altitude mountaineering. 13%
    • Peak bag. 13%

    4. Lead ability

    • 5.5-5.7. 5%
    • 5.8-5.9. 15%
    • 5.10. 22%
    • 5.11. 22%
    • 5.12. 17%
    • 5.13. 13%
    • 5.14. 3%

    We know that the more you train the harder you climb, but by how much?

    • 1% of people who don't train climb 5.14 and most lead 5.10 and easier-®the same goes if you train only 1-2 hours a week.
    • Up your training to 3-8 hours a week and you'll lead 5.11 and up.
    • Train 9-12 hours and 68% of you will lead 5.12 and up, and 11% will do 5.14.
    • Put in 11 hours and 57% lead 5.13.
    • Yo! Not a single one-drink-a-weeker can climb 5.14 and only 14% lead 5.13.
    • 9% of the heaviest boozers lead 5.14, and 36% lead 5.13.
    • 50% of pot heads climb 5.12 and up, while 29% of the non smokers climb 5.12 and up.

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