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Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
Pity the double-loop bowline—it’s getting worse press than Jacko. Two issues ago, we bagged on the knot because in 1989 Lynn Hill took a 70-foot groundfall when her partly tied bowline pulled free of her harness.
John Long: Legends of the Mind
Calling Buhl on the famous mountaineer’s truisms
The Hardest Bouldering in America ... and Maybe the World
With three V15s and four V14s just minutes off the pavement, Bear Lake Road near Estes Park, Colorado, has the highest concentration of hard bouldering in America and possibly the world.
To the Rescue
It's 5:45 a.m. and I'm standing in a line of people that wraps around the Camp 4 parking lot. It feels like I'm waiting for concert tickets but this i...
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Bufo V-Machine Shoe Review
There's a minimalist school of thought when it comes to steep-rock shoes. Ideally, the argument goes, you'd take a can of liquid rubber and spray-paint your feet. The V-Machine fits like this.
I started climbing six months ago and gradually increased my level to a lethal week: four straight days of hard bouldering and in the following week three days of trad, before my more experienced friends took away my rock shoes and booked me in with the physio who diagnosed elbow and knee tendonosis.
How to Mentally Train
I know that mental-preparation routines can be hugely beneficial for climbers, but the books never tell you how to fit these in when you're hanging out with your buddies. What routines do you recommend and how can you do these before a climb without looking like a geek?