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Climb Safe: Common Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them
In 1980 my college roommate, Mark Herndon, fell 100 feet on a two-pitch route. I was belaying from a stance at the end of the first pitch, cooling my feet, shoes off. Mark had just cruised the second-pitch crux, a near-holdless paddle up granite glass, and was nearing the end of a 50-foot runout above the route’s only lead bolt when he slipped.
John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Open Water Treading in Paradise
Climbing in Thailand
The Original Desert Rat: Kyle Copeland | 51
Kyle Copeland passed away on October 3, in Salt Lake City, after a long fight with Crohn's disease. Kyle's first ascents spanned the country's boldest...
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Mad Rock Loco Shoe Review
With space-disco styling—and the most ferociously down-turned last I’ve seen—this shoe is not for the fainthearted. Like last year’s Mad Rock Hooker, the Loco features a rubberized upper toe and aggressively serrated rubber heel cup, making these shoes easily the grabbiest I’ve used for toe scums and heel hooks.
Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
My fingertips keep splitting open. I moisturize and use additive-free chalk but my hands still dry out. Any suggestions?
Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
A sustainable, common-sense-based approach to weight control is just as important as a training program to anyone who is serious about improving their climbing.