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Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
Pity the double-loop bowline—it’s getting worse press than Jacko. Two issues ago, we bagged on the knot because in 1989 Lynn Hill took a 70-foot groundfall when her partly tied bowline pulled free of her harness.
John Long: A Confederacy of Dunces
Navigating Commercial Hoopla On A Bellyful Of Bad Fish
Climbers on the world's highest mountain have been particularly challenged this season -- not by altitude, weather or even the stream of guided climbers who clog the camps and flanks of Everest like cholesterol in the artery to the summit. This season the crux could be getting past the cops now posted around the base and at Camp II (21,300 feet) on the Nepal side.
Spotlight: The Double Life of Chris Webb Parsons
Chris Webb Parsons, 29, has a sense of humor to go with his bold and scrappy nature. In his hometown of Canberra, Australia, he held the highest school suspension rate for offenses ranging from dropping his pants to squirting the principal with a fire extinguisher. His sophomore year, Chris was expelled for setting off two chlorine bombs at Canberra High.
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Mobile Communication Devices
When a flake broke on Mount Temple, Steve House fell 80 feet, and flipped upside down, fracturing his ribs, pelvis and spine. His partner used a cell phone to call 911.
Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
Today when bouldering, I went up for a two-finger crimp with the middle and ring finger of my left hand. I'm pretty sure I heard the tiniest pop, then my ring finger went out and I felt pain in very specific spots.
Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
Anyone can hit the campus board and get strong, but a truly skilled climber is someone who can keep it together even when he is drowning in lactic acid, miles above the runner.