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Climb Safe: How to Extend a Rappel
Every year, without fail, someone is injured or dies in a rappelling accident. This July it was the easily prevented mistake of rapping off the end of the line. At this point, it seems a little useless to keep reminding people to tie some knots in the end of their ropes.
TNB: The Only Blasphemy
John Bachar laces up his boots and cinches the sling on his chalk bag. “Ready?” Only then do I realize he means to climb all two thousand feet solo, without a rope. To save face, I agree, thinking: Well, if he suggests something too crazy, I’ll just draw the line. I was the first to start soloing out at Josh anyhow.
Destination Sinks Canyon Wyoming
On the day of the Summer Solstice, it was windy, dry and cool at Sinks Canyon, just outside Lander, Wyoming. A small band of climbers were enjoying perfect conditions at the area's choicest wall, the Killer Cave.
"Good night, Chuck. We'll shoot the gun and throw the hatchet after coffee tomorrow morning," BJ Tilden speaks these last words as everyone around the campfire nods, and retires to tents and sleeping bags. Lander, Wyoming, is cowboy country, where people still varnish holsters, chew tobacco and use horses as transportation, and where unsung climbing talents like BJ Tilden are hard at work sending the climbing projects of the last decade.
Alex and Thomas Huber Climb in Queen Maud Land
Stephon Siegrist and the Huber Brothers-three of Europe's top free climbers-embark on an Antarctic expedition to the spellbinding realm of the Queen Mound Land, and open the coldest chapter of their lives.
Review of RAB Xenon Jacket
Rock and Ice review of the new Xenon climbing jacket by RAB.
Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
I first got tendonosis in my right elbow (medial epicondyle) in 2001 bouldering on plastic. Resting, icing and stretching did not work. I tried cortisone, prednisone, a physical therapist who did massage and Ionto-phoresis for a few weeks (which in hindsight was hocus-pocus), with no long-term improvement.
Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
How long has it been since you noticed a real improvement in your climbing? We all get stuck at various points in our climbing, and it's easy to haul out the same old excuses: insufficient training time and the same uncooperative body in the same gym. Surely everyone plateaus after a while, and perhaps your genetics only geared you up for 5.11d and not for .12a? Bunk!