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Climb Safe: Spotting for Bouldering
Jason Kehl is high. Twenty-five feet up the Grandpa Peabody boulder, the 60-foot monster testpiece in the Buttermilks near Bishop, he has just pimped a sustained, overhanging V10 section, but isn’t out of the woods yet. The seven-move sloper crux is still ahead.
John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
Red Dihedral (IV 5.10b)
Some routes or formations you climb for a physical challenge, and some because they are beautiful, but some things you climb because they explode out of the ground like granite rockets promising to take you to the moon. That’s the initial allure of the Incredible Hulk (11,040 feet) on the east side of the California Sierras.
The Beatnik of the Alps: A tale of FA's, Rescues, Love, and Suicide
Gary Hemming—the enigmatic Californian who brought the modern American climbing spirit and technique to the Alps during the 1960s—was a cultural hero in Europe during an era of social upheaval. Yet his fame in Europe—and anonymity in America—sat uneasily with his rebellious nature. Mirella Tenderini explores Hemming’s tumultuous life and spectacular climbs, creating a profound and tragic portrait of a man who sought a freedom—of love and climbing—that eluded him in this world. And perhaps in death Hemming became what the living cannot be—a legend and a myth.
Bouldering in Hampi India
The luck of finding the perfect line leads to a fall from grace.
Revolution Pocket Jib Review
Revolution Pocket Jibs10-pack for $19 Climbing indoors turns you into a sloppy fool. All the holds protrude, and climbing becomes a matter of plopping ...
Knee: Ruptured ACL
Five weeks ago I went climbing and injured my left knee. It happened just as I stood up from a drop knee. The doctor said that I ruptured my ACL.
Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
How long has it been since you noticed a real improvement in your climbing? We all get stuck at various points in our climbing, and it's easy to haul out the same old excuses: insufficient training time and the same uncooperative body in the same gym. Surely everyone plateaus after a while, and perhaps your genetics only geared you up for 5.11d and not for .12a? Bunk!