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Climb Safe: Common Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them
In 1980 my college roommate, Mark Herndon, fell 100 feet on a two-pitch route. I was belaying from a stance at the end of the first pitch, cooling my feet, shoes off. Mark had just cruised the second-pitch crux, a near-holdless paddle up granite glass, and was nearing the end of a 50-foot runout above the route’s only lead bolt when he slipped.
John Long: On the Road
And you thought your last climbing trip was tough.
Southern Idaho Secrets
The gem state is full of diamonds
Climbing dictates my entire life. Where I live, where I go, who I’m with, throughout the year.
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
TWO GATES for the price of one! Finally, I don’t feel ripped off ...
Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
I use an old Pusher Powerjunkie hang board and I'm concerned about the angled geometry of the main jugs. In the past I have had elbow problems. Is it bad to do pull-ups on grips that are not horizontal? Do you think that this setup could have a negative effect on my elbows? Is it healthier to have the grips set up horizontally as most other hang boards do?
Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
It’s tempting when we hear about Ondra to think that we’re not training enough, and to jack up the volume. Fact is, few people can cope with his absurd workload, and resting can do more good than adding to your training—a tenet that can be particularly frustrating for climbers with limited spare time.