• Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Building a Better Climber - The Rock and Ice Training Series
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Andy Houseman on Denali's Slovak Direct
    Andy Houseman on Denali's Slovak Direct

    Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump

    20-Oct-2009
    By

    I get pumped really quickly while I’m placing gear. Any tips for avoiding the trad burn? —Sam Jones, London, England

    OK, here are the checks: First, are you on the best hold? It may be that you only need to make one more move to a jug instead of fighting to get the piece in from the first available crimp or thin jam. Next, can you re-arrange your feet to get more weight on them? (How many times have you found a more comfortable position after the piece has gone in?) Are your arms straight? The classic error is to stand up and straighten your legs while holding a lock-off, when all you need to do is bend your knees. It’s not your legs that are going to pump out if the route is steep. Straightening your arms will help prevent your muscles from tiring and promote circulation to your forearm to flush the pump out. Next, are you swapping hands mid-operation? If not, one arm is taking an unfair share of the strain. Force yourself to trade out and use both hands/arms while you fiddle in gear, even if it feels counter intuitive and you are in a panic to secure the piece. Finally, are you placing gear too high? Especially on crack pitches, it makes more sense to slot the gear below your top jam, where it is both easier to reach and to see.

    Another tactical tip is to retreat to a resting position a few moves down if a placement has been particularly taxing.

    If all this still doesn’t work, perhaps you need to tweak your endurance sessions at the gym. Instead of sprinting up the hardest individual routes, try doing two or three easier routes in a row without rest. Better still, slow down and hold awkward positions for up to 20 seconds at a time. Trad requires you to stop and lock off to place pro, and therefore is a slower burn than sport climbing. The more you can simulate this pace in your training, the more successful you will be.

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