• Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
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    Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump

    20-Oct-2009
    By

    I get pumped really quickly while I’m placing gear. Any tips for avoiding the trad burn? —Sam Jones, London, England

    OK, here are the checks: First, are you on the best hold? It may be that you only need to make one more move to a jug instead of fighting to get the piece in from the first available crimp or thin jam. Next, can you re-arrange your feet to get more weight on them? (How many times have you found a more comfortable position after the piece has gone in?) Are your arms straight? The classic error is to stand up and straighten your legs while holding a lock-off, when all you need to do is bend your knees. It’s not your legs that are going to pump out if the route is steep. Straightening your arms will help prevent your muscles from tiring and promote circulation to your forearm to flush the pump out. Next, are you swapping hands mid-operation? If not, one arm is taking an unfair share of the strain. Force yourself to trade out and use both hands/arms while you fiddle in gear, even if it feels counter intuitive and you are in a panic to secure the piece. Finally, are you placing gear too high? Especially on crack pitches, it makes more sense to slot the gear below your top jam, where it is both easier to reach and to see.

    Another tactical tip is to retreat to a resting position a few moves down if a placement has been particularly taxing.

    If all this still doesn’t work, perhaps you need to tweak your endurance sessions at the gym. Instead of sprinting up the hardest individual routes, try doing two or three easier routes in a row without rest. Better still, slow down and hold awkward positions for up to 20 seconds at a time. Trad requires you to stop and lock off to place pro, and therefore is a slower burn than sport climbing. The more you can simulate this pace in your training, the more successful you will be.

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