Table of Contents
  • Ancient Tonics
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Basic Aid Technique
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Climbing Protection
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • How to Avoid Belayer's Neck
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace TIps for Rock Climbers
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Snow Travel: Skills for Climbing, Hiking, and Crossing Over Snow
  • Staying Alive in the Death Sport Capital of the World
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • The Rock and Ice Survey of Your Body, Mind and Soul
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Basic Aid Technique
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace TIps for Rock Climbers
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Cam Care and Maintenance Guide
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Climbing Protection
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace TIps for Rock Climbers
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Climb Safe: Spotting for Bouldering
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace TIps for Rock Climbers
  • Knee: ACL Reconstruction
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace TIps for Rock Climbers
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Last Day, Best Day in Hueco Tanks (RV Project Episode 5)
    Last Day, Best Day in Hueco Tanks (RV Project Episode 5)

    Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades

    20-Nov-2009
    By

    Most climbers want to know how difficult a climb is, either to keep us from biting off more climb than we can chew, or to compete overtly with others or ourselves. Many different rating systems are used worldwide, but in the United States, we use the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS).
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    Although some climbers eschew any type of quantification, most of us want to know how difficult a climb is, either to keep us from biting off more climb than we can chew, or to compete overtly with others or ourselves. Hence, like kayakers, climbers have a system to rate the difficulty of our chosen medium. Many different rating systems are used worldwide, but in the United States, we use the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS).

    Mountain climbing is divided into classes, from Class 1 (walking down a trail) to Class 5 (technical climbing). When you get to fifth class climbing, the scale used exclusively for free climbing breaks down into technical sub-grades. Hence, a climb might be 5.8. If it is slightly harder than 5.8, but not quite 5.9, it’s rated 5.8+. If it’s slightly easier than 5.8 but harder than 5.7, it might be rated 5.8-.

    Once you pass 5.9, we add on a suffix from “a” to “d” to note whether a climb is at the bottom, middle, or the top of the grade. For example, 5.10 breaks into 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c and 5.10d. Sometimes letters are left out, usually when climbers are unsure of the rating. The hardest confirmed grade climbed to date is 5.15a. The chart shown here compares the YDS with grading systems of other countries.

    Be aware that grades don’t adequately compare different types of climbing. Don’t assume that since you can cruise a 5.8 friction slab, a 5.8 offwidth will feel the same. Likewise, a 5.11a hand crack requires altogether different skills than a 5.11a sport route. Additionally, the numerical ratings don’t factor in the danger element. In America, an “R” or “X” may follow the number grade, for example, 5.10a R. The R suffix means the route may be runout or difficult to protect, with the possibility of a long fall. An X rating means the route is dangerous, with marginal protection and the possibility of a fatal fall.

    For multi-pitch climbs, a Roman-numeral grade is tacked on, from I to VI, to indicate the time it might require to complete the climb. For example, the grade for Death Climb 2000 might be IV 5.9. Following is the breakdown, based on the progress of an average party. A fast team might climb a Grade V in an easy day; on the other hand, if you’re a neophyte, attempting a Grade IV might be more than you can climb in a day. 


    Grade I: a one- or two-pitch climb. This grade is normally not even used.

    Grade II: a climb that will take an average party a few hours to complete. Again, this grade is rarely used.

    Grade III: the climb will take a half-day or so.

    Grade IV: an all-day route for an average party.

    Grade V: a two-day climb, requiring a bivouac.

    Grade VI: a three-day (or more) climb.


    In the past, boulder problems were ranked with a three-grade system (B1, B2, B3) devised by John Gill, for easy, medium and hard. Today, boulder problems in America are graded using the V scale. V0 connotes a boulder problem roughly equivalent to 5.10 or below. V4 is concomitant with mid 5.12. The scale currently tops out at V16!

    Take grades with a grain of salt. They are only approximations and vary from area to area, or even within the same area. Don’t get too wrapped up in them as they can mess with your head and limit you. Free climbing may be your ultimate goal, but don’t think climbs done with a move or two of aid are invalid in any way. In climbing, as in many things in life, it’s the experience that counts.

    See International Comparison Ratings on next page >>


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    grades

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