Mason Earle is constantly scouring America's southwestern desert for undone lines, and in the winter of 2012 he unlocked the first ascent of Real Talk (5.13+) in lower Mill Creek, Utah. Earle wrote on his blog that the 70-foot sandstone crack "maintains the width of a 000 C3 to a 0 C3, so basically, it's really really thin." To fire the first ascent of Real Talk, Earle needed to climb the hardest moves while running it out above the route's smallest cam. "I think my climbing ability was being sabotaged by my nerves as I attempted the crux above a 000 C3," wrote Earle of his previous springtime attempts. "This fall I was expecting the same mental battle, but I dispatched the rig on my first lead go."
Enjoy this excellent video of Mason Earle making the first ascent of Real Talk (5.13+).
BD athlete Mason Earle making the first ascent of Real Talk (5.13+), Lower Mill Creek, UT from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.