• The Training Effect: Methods by Steve House
  • Building a Better Climber: Part Four
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Catch of the Day
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Cheap Tricks
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Training While Hungry
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Training With an Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
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    Dynamic vs. Static Stretching

    29-Jan-2010
    By


    Should I only do dynamic mobility exercises as part of my warm-up? Recent studies suggest that static stretches temporarily relax the muscles and reduce power output. If this is the case then I will need to re-think my warm-up routine!

    —Jed Beers | Salt Lake City, UT

    A lot of sports research is compiled for activities that bear little resemblance to climbing. In rowing, cycling or power-lifting, for example, there is less need for flexibility—it is all about raw power output, and anything that compromises power should be questioned. But climbing is much more about skill, co-ordination and the ability to express power in different ways. Put simply, high steps and wide stems are facilitated by static stretching. Minimize the amount of static stretching for the arms, neck and shoulders. For example, stretch each muscle group once or twice and don't hold the stretches for too long (eight to 10 seconds). Different bodies will respond in different ways and it is important to experiment, and to see what works best for you.

    Before climbing use a combination of static and dynamic exercises for your legs. Prioritize dynamic exercises (finger clenches and shoulder circles) for your upper body with a minimal amount of static stretching. Keep in mind that building the intensity of the climbing gradually over the day is far more important for injury-prevention and warming up than stretching.

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