Body

  • Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Body: Injury Truths
  • Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Body: Chronic Injury
  • Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage
  • Back

  • Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc
  • Abdomen

  • Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia
  • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Shoulder: Separation
  • Shoulder: Pain and Virus
  • Biceps

    No items found.

    Elbow

  • Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Elbow: DR. J's Dodgy Elbows
  • Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding
  • Wrist

  • Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Wrist: Instability
  • Hand

  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers

  • Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Fingers: Flappers
  • Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Fingers: Cysts
  • Fingers: Arthritis
  • Fingers: Numbness
  • Fingers: Blown Tendons
  • Leg

  • Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Leg: Fracture
  • Knee

  • Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
  • Ankle

  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Feet

  • Feet: Broken Foot
  • Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Feet: Toe Fracture
  •  
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    Memoire
    Memoire

    Wrist: Ruptured Tendon

    19-Dec-2012
    By

    Recently I strained my wrist quite badly while climbing. Slopers and pinches are painful. I’m concerned about pushing it too hard to the point of tearing cartilage. I just feel that most doctors, no matter how you explain it to them, don’t understand climbing at all.

    —Ryland

    Julian Assange would have a better chance of perusing CIA documents in the national archive than doctors have of finding any research about climbing injuries. In this instance, however, knowledge of climbing injuries is not especially necessary, and both the chiro and PT have given you sound advice.

    Based on your description, it sounds like you ruptured the radio-ulna ligament and have developed radial-ulna joint instability. The lump you describe is the now-unrestrained ulna sticking out the side. Don’t worry too much about injuring the triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFC) that sits between the ulna and the carpal bones on that side—you already have!

    Taping the wrist will work reasonably well. However, increasing stability by way of compression is about as rudimentary as the well-known prosthesis of Captain James Hook.  The ulna-side carpal bones will tend to drift forward, primarily because you will have instability resulting from damaged ligaments and the probable disruption to the TFC complex. This disc contributes significantly to stability on the little-finger side of your wrist.
    Slopers will hurt because the mechanics of your wrist now operate much like a bunch of coins in a tumble dryer.  Pinches will hurt because your wrist is typically flexed to the little-finger side, exerting direct stress on the injured structures, especially the TFC complex. Surgery is still an option, but most surgeons are loath to do it because it is both difficult and prone to failure. My concern with taping is that it may not provide sufficient stability to prevent further degeneration of the TFC complex and carpal joints, resulting in significant arthritic degeneration down the line.  Hand specialist. MRI. Many factors will determine the best course of action, not least of all the extent of damage.

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