Mayan Smith-Gobat spent countless hours hanging out alone, high up El Cap, working the crux pitches of the Salathé Wall.

“The whole process was enjoyable, possibly not at the time, but in retrospect,” says Smith-Gobat. “I loved working on the Headwall alone, being up there totally responsible for myself, and not reliant on anyone else.”

The hard work paid off. On Monday, October 3, Smith-Gobat reported that she had successfully free climbed the Salathé Wall (5.13b).  To make the ascent even sweeter, she had sent the line on her birthday.

“Just got off the Salathé,” she posted on Facebook.  “Bday sendage!!!”

Smith-Gobat is only the second woman to free climb the Salathé Wall, the first being Steph Davis in 2005.

Smith-Gobat spent six days on El Cap during her Salathé send.  Her partner for the route was Sean Villanueva who followed every pitch clean and also led the crux pitches (the Huber Boulder pitch and the Headwall) clean during the ascent.

Rock and Ice contacted Smith-Gobat to ask about the ascent.

How long have you been trying the Salathé Wall?

My first time on El Capitan was in 2009 when I tried the Free Rider, but my first real attempt on the Salathé headwall was last year in mid September ... so about a year.

What was the crux for you?

Climbing the Headwall on link from the ground for sure ... However, the Huber Boulder pitch was also pretty hard, but very short in comparison. The Headwall is super long and sustained, with the crux right at the very end. It requires a massive amount of focus and endurance to stick with it right to the end, especially at the top of the route.

What did the actual free ascent feel like?

A dream come true!!! Elation, release and relief. We had a great time on the wall. It was an awesome experience!

Were there any scary parts for you?

On the send there were no really scary parts, other than the weather looking really threatening for the last few days on Long Ledge. I was scared on certain pitches (like the Hollow Flake) on my first time up the route, but I am super comfortable with them now.

What's next for you?

Probably try to free climb El Cap in a day, via the Free Rider, and maybe have a look at some other routes on the Captain. Then off to China for the Petzl Roc Trip... Then I have no fixed plans.

See Mayan's Blog here.

[Photos by Danny Uhlmann.]