Sasha DiGiulian recently became the first American woman to redpoint a 5.14d by climbing Pure Imagination in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge.  The fact that she sent the rig in just six tries might leave climbers wondering… was Pure Imagination even a challenge for her?

“Pure Imagination was hands-down the hardest climb I’ve ever been on,” DiGiulian tells Rock and Ice.  “I approached this climb with an open mind. I’ve never donated a lot of time to a certain climb, and I thought that this climb would take much more time than it actually ended up taking, so this was a little surprising to me!”

The 18-year-old (she turns 19 this Sunday) from Alexandria, Virginia, is having a monumental year of climbing.  During one day last month at Rodellar, Spain, DiGiulian sent Maskoking (5.14a), Eclipse Cerebral (5.13d) and True Crime (5.13b), all onsight.

In addition to climbing hard outside, she has also tasted success on the World Cup circuit, winning first place overall at the IFSC Climbing World Championships in Arco, Italy, this summer.

Interview below.

Can you describe the climbing on Pure Imagination?

Pure Imagination is an 80-foot, slightly overhanging climb that has three crux sections separated by continuous, on-edge climbing with few rests. It is a beautiful line, established by Jonathan Siegrist last year. The holds are sharp and very small, but despite the skin battle, the climb is amazingly fun and aesthetic.

What was your favorite part of the climb?

It involves a lot of resistance, power, and mental focus, so this was really cool for me to experience. Climbing constantly on-edge, I guess, was my favorite part – really trying hard!

You've climbed well in the Red River Gorge, sending Southern Smoke and Lucifer both 5.14c.  Is the Red your favorite destination?

The Red is the most accessible area to me because it is reasonably close to home, so it is the place that I have spent the most time. I love the climbing, but I’m also excited to explore more areas!

One of my favorite things about the RRG is the fact that generally there is always an intermediate hold to use. I am not very tall (5’2”) so it is cool not to be limited by reaches!

Do you prefer indoor competitions or climbing outside?

I love climbing outside more than competitions because it is the more authentic form of the sport. Being outside with friends, trying hard and pushing my physical limits is something that is inspiring to me about climbing, and a large reason that I am so passionate about it. Competing is fun, too, but I am more motivated on rock!

I have a hard time staying in a gym just to train because it’s not as fun! In the World Cups, sometimes this mentality is a bit of a disadvantage because most of my competitors only climb in the gym. That is something I could never do, so I try to make climbing outside my “training.” There are definitely overlapping factors between climbing outside and in competitions, like channeling nerves, approaching onsights, technique, etc. However, plastic is not rock, and sometimes this switch-over can be a bit strange.

Check out DiGiulian's website here.

[DiGiulian gripping pockets on Pure Imagination.]

[Another view of Pure Imagination.]

[DiGiulian finishes another fall day at the Red. All photos by Keith Ladzinski.]