• Reinhold Messner: What I've Learned
  • Listening for the Echo: The Klem Loskot Profile
  • Layton Kor Dies
  • Climbers We Lost In 2012
  • Life on Hold: The Ian Powell Story
  • Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
  • Mike Foley: Never Enough
  • Hayden Kennedy: Superballistic
  • Naomi Guy: What I've Learned
  • Dave Macleod: What I've Learned
  • Thomas Bubendorfer: Eiger Legend Back in the Game
  • Q&A: V15 Maestro Nacho Sanchez Unleashed
  • Francesca Metcalf: Meant to Compete
  • Maurice Herzog Dies
  • Kurt Albert: Free Wheel
  • Mason Earle: Crack Ropegun
  • Mayan Smith-Gobat: Climber for all Seasons
  • John Long: What I've Learned
  • Nik Berry: Obsessive Crusher
  • TNB: Tony Scott, Climber, Movie Maker, Lived and Died Large
  • Who's Next?
  • Todd Skinner: The Renegade
  • Tom Patey: The Tiger of Yesterday
  • Patxi Usobiaga: The Bionic Man
  • Michael Reardon
  • Max Turgeon and Louis-Philippe Ménard: Alpinists and Ice Climbers
  • Kurt Albert: The Climber Who Invented Redpointing
  • Josh Wharton: The Alpinist
  • John Rosholt: Climber and Gambler Disappears in Las Vegas
  • The Stonemasters Climb at Pirates Cove
  • John Bachar's Last Interview
  • John Bachar Remembers Michael Reardon
  • John Bachar by Henry Barber
  • John Bachar Remembered by Duane Raleigh
  • John Bachar by Doug Robinson
  • John Bachar and the Bachar-Yerian First Ascent
  • Colin Kirkus: Climbing's Greatest Unknown
  • Alex Puccio
  • John Long: A Man for All Seasons
  • Galen Rowell: The Vertical World
  • The Prophet
  • The Guy Whose Nuts Revolutionized Climbing: R.P.
  • Randy Leavitt
  • Brian Kim Spotlight
  • Rob Raker
  • Ueli Steck
  • Kemple and Lindner Almost Free El Nino
  • Crack Attack
  • Climbing World Mourns Todd Skinner
  • Ammon McKneely
  • A Tour of Magic and Mystery
  • Tanja Grmovsek
  • Rob Miller
  • Climber Hugh Herr Honored by Esquire Magazine
  • Climber Eric Brand Dies
  • Chuck Fryberger, Climber and Filmmaker
  • Chris Schulte Profile
  • Beth Rodden
  • Joe Kinder
  • Hazel Findlay
  • To the BASE Layer
  • Pete Ward
  • Mad Max
  • Chris Boskoff
  • Bradford Washburn
  • Revenge of the Nerd
  • Chris Lindner
  • Renan Ozturk
  • One-Track Mind
  • Tim Clifford: Escaping the Quantum Hole
  • Traveling Light
  • Colette McInerney
  • The Banner Years
  • Pakistan: The Big and Free
  • MAD DASH
  • Kris Hampton
  • KEEPING THE FAITH
  • Jules Cho
  • Extreme Eleven and Beyond
  • Bob Bates, 96, Takes His Final Journey
  • Jody Hansen
  • Home Girl
  • An Encounter with Fred
  • The Average Hero Sir Edmund Hillary, 88
  • More Than One Trick
  • Dave Graham
  • Red River Sugar Mama
  • Phillip Schaal
  • An Advanced Beginner
  • The Last Samurai:
  • THE BERMANATOR
  • Sonnie in Scotland
  • Offwidth Hombre
  • Moonlight Solo-Nata
  • Jasmin Caton
  • Crag Clown
  • Unlikely Candidate
  • Lone Star
  • The Calculator: Alex Kordick
  • Rise of the Machines
  • Dave Waggoner 1955-2009
  • Blood Spider
  • The Original Desert Rat: Kyle Copeland | 51
  • J-Star
  • Italian Legend: Lino lacedelli | 83
  • Cold Justice Paul Cormier
  • The Suffer King
  • The Need for Speed
  • Nick Martino Gives All
  • G-Money
  • Climbing Out of Academic Trouble
  • Charles Houston, 96
  • Bobby Model, 36
  • "Open Bivy" Willy
  • To the Rescue
  • The Genius
  • The Gamer
  • Shock Rock
  • Ryan Triplett | 31
  • John Bachar and the Cosmic Surfboard
  • Hand Crafted
  • Return of the Verm
  • Amped
  • Regime Change
  • Man vs. Snake
  • Living Legend
  • Layton Kor honored by AAC
  • Cold Justice
  • Cowboy Anguish
  • The Rock Jester
  • Mixed Rehab
  • Laura Fletcher
  • Bill Stall
  • Benjamin Strohmeier
  • Joe Six-Pack
  • Freedom Path
  • Manboy
  • Up and Down
  • The Duelist
  • A for Achiever
  • Paul A. Duval
  • Kelly S. Bell
  • Close But No Cigar
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Red River Gorge - Spring 2012
    Red River Gorge - Spring 2012

    Renan Ozturk

    29-Jun-2010
    By

    kemples-corner-162  IN CLIMBING, MOST PEOPLE REDUCE THE SPORT TO WHETHER OR NOT you reach the top. Renan Ozturk, however, believes that style makes the experience worthwhile, even if it comes at the expense of reaching the summit. This happened last year when Ozturk, Nick Martino and Micah Dash, in order to move quickly, left their ice gear at base camp and blitzed Nameless Tower, Pakistan, to the last few pitches where they were stopped by, you guessed it, ice. Still, being light and moving quickly up remote alpine stone is what drives Renan Ozturk. In fact, style drives almost every lifestyle sport—whether it’s surfing, skiing, or skateboarding, it’s not just about riding it out, it’s about how refined execution gets you where you want to go. 

    From the big walls of the Ruth Gorge, Alaska, to Pakistani granite, Ozturk has styled objectives that are multi-day sieges for most parties. He’s also a bold climber, having onsight soloed the Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11), Canyonlands. 

    Renan Ozturk is soft-spoken and in high spirits. He is also a badass artist whose trippy landscape paintings capture his vision of the stunning mountain landscapes he has visited.

    You went to Colorado College, in Colorado Springs. Why does that school turn out so many good climbers?  

    Could be the Block program. You take one class for three and a half weeks. When it’s finished, you get a four-day “block break” to explore and build psyche.

    Where does your style of art come from? 

    It’s the best way I can represent such inspiring landscapes. 

    Do you ever go sport climbing? 

    I try to sport climb a lot these days. I love the fitness you gain for big-wall free climbs and the places it can take you. Still, crowds or a crag with manky chains everywhere turn me off. 

    Which area has a better scene, Yosemite or Indian Creek?  

    They are totally different. Yosemite is like an international party confined between giant walls and Indian Creek is more of a peaceful getaway in a desert expanse.

    Are there more people climbing alpine big walls these days?  

    I think big-wall routes in Yosemite are attracting more attention, but the number of Monkeys inspired to suffer in the mountains has not changed much.

    What the heck is a Monkey? 

    The Monkeys are a species inspired to live in sick rockscapes and be part of the lifestyle full time.  

    Can anyone become a Monkey?  

    Being a Monkey is inherently inside any of us … but it’s not for everyone. Some climbers are Ninjas—they might live in the city and quickly show up to dispatch with The Gnar.

    What do you think are the craziest projects in the world-—futuristic, but doable?  

    Yosemite-style wall pushes in Baffin and Pakistan complete with BASE jump descents.

    How is it climbing full time?  

    I love waking up within the rocks and traveling constantly, but I know I’d recover better if I had a base of operations.

    What type of climbing makes you the happiest?  

    A “just barely” free onsight of a new alpine route.

    ==
    What is more important, style or objective?  

    The style means far more than the actual mountain you are climbing.

    Do you think your light-and-fast ethic was the reason you were denied the summit of Nameless Tower?  

    Yeah, the wet running shoes and aluminum strap-ons during a snowstorm proved to be a bit light-duty for the final mixed terrain.    

    You say style is more important than the objective, but you also didn’t summit. If you could do it over again, is there anything you would change? 

    The style would remain the same—simple alpine style—but I would carry boots and steel crampons.

    Do you regret not reaching the top? 

    Um, yes. But I’m psyched I still have my toes. 

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    Hello