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Will Sweat Harm My Harness?15-Jan-2013
We all know that UV harms nylon, but if I sweat in my harness and I weakening it?...
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Should You Use Rope or Webbing to Connect to an Anchor?15-Jan-2013
Webbing doesn't stretch and a rope does, but does either make a difference when you are constructing a belay?...
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Choosing Between C4s and Friends15-Jan-2013
I'm a big guy, a novice, and am wondering which cam will be more reliable for me, the Black Diamond Camalot or the Wild Country Friend?...
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Can You Lead On a Static Rope?15-Jan-2013
Is a static rope just for toproping, or can you lead on it if you place gear close together and limit the distance you might fall?...
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Can I Use Climbing Bolts For Anchors in a Gym?15-Jan-2013
Climbing bolts are usually really designed for use in concrete, so if your climbing wall is made of cement, you are good to go. ...
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Are Falls Held or Breaking Strength More Important In a Rope?15-Jan-2013
Falls held and breaking strength are both important, and ideally a rope will do well in both areas, but there is a lot more to selecting a rope than simply weighing those two factors....
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Does Poop Harm a Climbing Rope?14-Jan-2013
What to do when the unthinkable happens, and how to stay sanitary out at the crag.
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Are Homemade Draws Reliable?07-Jan-2013
I have rigged my homemade draws with rubber bands to prevent the carabiners from crossloading, but I'm not sure if I am compromising my safety. Help! ...
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Shopping for Economy Carabiners19-Dec-2012
Gear Guy sounds off on budget quickdraws, wire and bar gates, and everything else relevant to making a smart carabiner purchase....
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When You Fly, Can You Carry On Climbing Gear?17-Dec-2012Ice-climbing hardware such as tools, screws and crampons will have to be checked, but what about the other stuff?...
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Can I Trust Fixed Draws?27-Feb-2012
After Todd Skinner’s death due to a broken belay loop, Black Diamond tested belay loops and slings that were 75-percent cut and they were still 90 percent of full strength...
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Which Helmet WIll Fit My Big Head?07-Mar-2011
I checked the helmet reviews and settled on the Petzl Elios, size 2. Great helmet, except it doesn't fit my noggin. Couldn't even buckle the chin strap and I had the adjustable wheel all the way open. What helmet is equal to the Elios and will fit a huge noggin?...
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Choosing Ice Screw Length07-Mar-2011
I am going to start leading ice this season, but don't know which length ice screws I should get. I only have the ducats for eight screws. Should I get long screws, or short screws, or in between?...
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Are Adjustable Leg Loops Useful?07-Mar-2011
Are adjustable leg loops actually useful? I rock climb, and ice climb some, and need a new harness. I'd rather have a less expensive and lighter harness with non-adjustable leg loops, but I've heard that you need adjustable loops to accommodate winter pants. Really?...
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Should I clip ice screws with Screamers?04-Feb-2011
Screamers are break-apart quickdraws that absorb some of the energy in a fall, but will using one on an ice screw make it less likely to rip out?...
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How do I Make a Bomber Anchor?04-Feb-2011
I work at a camp center in the Alps in France and we teach beginner climbers on one of the building's concrete walls. Until now we've used the iron beams as anchors (using a redundant sling set-up) for toproping, which is safe and works well, but it takes 40 minutes to rig. ...
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Can I Modify my Crampon Without Compromising the Integrity?04-Feb-2011
I reversed and flipped a front point on my DMM Terminators to make a heel spur. This required cutting a notch in the frame of the crampons to fit the point. Have I seriously compromised the integrity of the crampon?...
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Hot Versus Cold Forging01-Dec-2010
What variables should I consider when choosing between gear that is hot forged versus cold forged?...
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Caring For Your FIngertips01-Dec-2010
How do I heal cracked fingertips? How do I prevent them from cracking in the first place?...
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Are Sewn Slings Stronger Than Knotted Ones?01-Dec-2010
A knotted sling might appear strong because the webbing is doubled through the knot, but in actuality it is weak because the bends in the knot are stress-concentration points. ...
Cold War
What do sitting through an ice comp and a recital of Bach's Brandenburg concertos have in common? A: They seem brilliant after the fact, but during them you have to mainline espresso beans to stay propped upright.








