• Broken Hand
  • NSAIDS: To Use or Not to Use
  • Hydrocele, Spermatocele and Strained Groin
  • Hand: Arthritis
  • Open-Heart Surgery
  • Osteopenia and Increasing Bone Density
  • Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Body: Injury Truths
  • Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Body: Chronic Injury
  • Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage
  • Back

  • Lumbar Bone Spurs
  • Options for Disc Herniation
  • Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc
  • Abdomen

  • Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia
  • Arm

    No items found.


  • Thoracic Musculature Tightness
  • Chronic Posterior Shoulder Pain
  • Supraspinatus and Labral Tears
  • Chronic Shoulder Pain
  • Shoulder Replacement
  • Shoulder Pain
  • Exploding Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Shoulder: Separation
  • Shoulder: Pain and Virus
  • Biceps

  • Bursting Biceps
  • Elbow

  • Golfer's Elbow
  • Elbow: Brachioradialis Pain
  • Tennis Elbow
  • Medial Epicondylosis Tendonitis
  • Dodgy Elbows Revisited
  • Synovial Chips
  • Quack Elbow Treatments to Avoid
  • Elbow Pain and Cortisone Use
  • Do Compression Sleeves Work?
  • Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Elbow Pain and Dodgy Elbows
  • Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding
  • Wrist

  • TFCC Tear
  • Wrist Pain From Cleaning Routes
  • Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Wrist: Instability
  • Hand

  • Broken Hand
  • Hand: Hook of the Hamate Fracture
  • Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers

  • Swollen Right Index Finger
  • Pinky Numbness
  • Avulsion Fracture
  • Hand: Arthritis
  • Finger Numbness
  • Fourth Metacarpal Break
  • First Pulley Strain
  • Freezing Fingers Today, Benefit Tomorrow?
  • Cysts in Fingers
  • Ruptured Finger Pulley
  • Major Finger Pain
  • Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Fingers: Flappers
  • Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Fingers: Cysts
  • Fingers: Arthritis
  • Fingers: Numbness
  • Fingers: Blown Tendons
  • Leg

  • Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Leg: Fracture
  • Knee

  • Outside Knee Pain: Tibiofibular Joint
  • MCL Injury
  • Blown Knees
  • Knee Tendonitis after Ankle Fusion
  • Meniscal Tear on a Drop Knee
  • Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
  • Ankle

  • Osteochondral Talus Fracture
  • Knee Tendonitis after Ankle Fusion
  • Snapped ankle tendon
  • Possible Death of the Talus Bone
  • Broken Talus Bone
  • Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Feet

  • Bunions
  • Dr. J Attacks Fungal Toenails
  • Feet: Broken Foot
  • Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Feet: Toe Fracture
  • Video Spotlight
    Rooftown Vol. 2 - Featuring the Bouldering Exploits of Matt Gentile
    Rooftown Vol. 2 - Featuring the Bouldering Exploits of Matt Gentile
    Whipper of the Month
    Weekend Whipper: Chris Sharma's 100-foot Pont d’Arc Deep Water Solo
    Weekend Whipper: Chris Sharma's 100-foot Pont d’Arc Deep Water Solo

    Body: Pain Meds vs Sex


    Jodie Houghton isn't worried about testosterone.I no longer produce much testosterone because I’ve been on pain medicine so long. I put on 20 pounds, started having hot flashes and variously couldn’t stay awake or sleep to save my life. I had the testosterone levels of an 80-year-old man, so I do a weekly T injection and I feel great. From a climbing perspective, is there anything I should avoid or be aware of with this medication? I’m fully informed of all the risks otherwise and at present I’m not a candidate for those risks (knock on wood).
    —Onrockandice | Rock and Ice Forum

    The 21st century has been witness to an epidemic of manrexia. Media-driven androgyny (metrosexual manrexia) is the Captain Bligh on the new Ship of Fools.

    Your form of manrexia, however, is pharmaceutically driven. Through what is more technically known as opioid-induced androgen deficiency, testosterone levels get whacked around like an Arab dictator sitting on an oil field.

    Luckily, you have a reasonable defense and don’t need to resort to  “a thyroid problem” (a dubious excuse for all ailments usually related to laziness). Like your old mate Lance, you have an excuse to juice. You’re all legal. The distillation of maleness, percolated from the testicles of Amazonian pigmies (through registered organ donation only), is your new ristretto.

    As long as you are monitored by your doctor, you should be all good. Your voice should not deepen and the Bay Watch bikini team should remain safe. If you have come back from the levels of an 80-year-old, I suspect everyone is a lot happier in your shack.

    There are not too many side effects of testosterone medication that could affect your climbing per se, other than a few associated with mild overdose. Erections that pop up halfway through a route (as opposed to before you start rooting) run the risk of getting caught in a leg loop. Vomiting on your belayer can generate some bad feelings while rashes and itching will scatter your social circle quicker than a turd in the deep end of the pool.

    Keep in mind that long-term use of opiod medication has diminishing returns and is highly addictive. Get off them as soon as you can. Pain is not the root of all evil, pharmaceutical companies are.
    Go outside and roar. Climb a rock. Spear something—eat it. Shag the missus. You are MAN.


    Getting Teste

    Testosterone is synonymous with being male, while estrogens and progestagens are viewed as female sex hormones. While there is a clear discrepancy between male and female levels, we each have a bit of all of them.Testosterone is synonymous with being male, while estrogens and progestagens are viewed as female sex hormones. While there is a clear discrepancy between male and female levels, we each have a bit of all of them.

    Sex hormones are like your basic supermodel—easily upset, and with a vast capacity to demonstrate it. Drugs, stress, illnesses, age, the time of the month, or that there are no soft wipes in the bathroom may all be catalysts of hormone mayhem.

    Low testosterone can cause erectile dysfunction, moodiness, sleep disturbances and fatigue. The fact that your penis is no longer pitching a family-sized tent in the morning is a sign that your testosterone levels are falling.

    Fanatical fat watchers beware—diets that look like a who’s who of the fat-free product range result in lower testosterone levels, while diets with moderate fat intake, high protein and low carbs produce a consistent high level of testosterone.

    Unlike a woman’s menopause, when estrogen levels plummet over months to very low levels, men’s “andropause” is a gradual decline of testosterone levels over the years—around 1 percent per year from the age of 40.

    Some facts: Testosterone levels in the morning are 30 percent higher. You may have high testosterone levels if your ring finger is longer than your index finger. Higher levels tend to be associated with combative behavior, risky undertakings, receding hairline, heavy growth of facial and body hair, acne, a lean physique and high cheekbones with a low brow ridge.

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