• Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Body: Injury Truths
  • Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Body: Chronic Injury
  • Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage
  • Back

  • Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc
  • Abdomen

  • Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia
  • Arm

    No items found.


  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Shoulder: Separation
  • Shoulder: Pain and Virus
  • Biceps

    No items found.


  • Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Elbow Pain and Dodgy Elbows
  • Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding
  • Wrist

  • Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Wrist: Instability
  • Hand

  • Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers

  • Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Fingers: Flappers
  • Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Fingers: Cysts
  • Fingers: Arthritis
  • Fingers: Numbness
  • Fingers: Blown Tendons
  • Leg

  • Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Leg: Fracture
  • Knee

  • Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
  • Ankle

  • Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Feet

  • Feet: Broken Foot
  • Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Feet: Toe Fracture
  • Video Spotlight
    Rooftown Vol. 2 - Featuring the Bouldering Exploits of Matt Gentile
    Rooftown Vol. 2 - Featuring the Bouldering Exploits of Matt Gentile
    Whipper of the Month
    Weekend Whipper: 60-Footer on Castleton Tower (Trad Fall)
    Weekend Whipper: 60-Footer on Castleton Tower (Trad Fall)

    Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus


    Last year my knee exploded while during a heel hook. I ruptured my lateral collateral ligament, tore my posterior cruciate and arcuate ligament, the medial meniscus, as well as disrupting the posterior capsule of the knee joint. How is it even possible to do so much damage? My knee feels fine now but I can’t really do the same things with it.

    Tilly Parkins | Sydney, Australia

    If Mother Nature did not have a biological monopoly, and evolution existed in the free market, knees would be better designed and come with a 100,000-mile or 50-year warranty.

    Centuries ago the peripatetic knee was an admirable joint, and teeth were our weakest link. As grades go up, and climbers come down … harder, so does the stress and strain. Knees are placed in positions of extreme torsion while climbing and, as the new-age-bravado-boulder problem becomes the norm (i.e., a short route sans rope) they are suffering considerably more from sudden loading.

    Like the shoulder, the knee has a nasty propensity to cascade through multiple injuries in an instant. When one ligament ruptures it shock loads the next, and so on. The pathomechanics are complicated, but it is certainly not uncommon to do several other injuries as the force is taken up elsewhere.

    A year down the track and a marathon of rehab behind you, your knee should be in tip-top shape. I suspect your head is not, however, and that you live in fear of hearing the nauseating sound of tearing flesh and connective tissue.

    You could broach these issues with Dr. Phil, but I think you would have more success with Dr. Google. There are lots of sports psychology books that deal with returning from injury. A few ideas: A) strength is a great catalyst of confidence; go to the gym, do yoga, tantric pole dance, whatever it takes for you to think that knee is just like the other one. B) Imagine you are a heel-hooking Transformer. C) Set some route goals that will progressively test your knee.

    Certainly there will be some restrictions in the knee associated with both the injured tissue and the immobilization following surgery. It sounds like you have moved through most of this already and your surgeon and P.T. have clearly done a good job. Run that knee through some hoops. If it’s not hurting add some fire and music, and dance up a storm. One simple rule—pay attention! A little pain is fine as long as it does not last for days. When you catch yourself wondering which knee it was, you are free to try the magnum opus of tantric pole dancing—the one-legged-upside-down-starfish. Good luck.

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