Body

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Injury Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Chronic Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage
  • Back

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc
  • Abdomen

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia
  • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Separation
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Pain and Virus
  • Biceps

    No items found.

    Elbow

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Elbow Pain and Dodgy Elbows
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding
  • Wrist

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Instability
  • Hand

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury:Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Flappers
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Arthritis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Blown Tendons
  • Leg

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Fracture
  • Knee

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
  • Ankle

  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Feet

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Broken Foot
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Toe Fracture
  •  
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    Connecticut Bouldering
    Connecticut Bouldering

    Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder

    28-Jan-2010
    By

    Eighteen months ago I had an operation on my shoulder for Os acromialis. Although initially good, it became aggravated after I started climbing several months later. My range of motion became extremely restricted and the shoulder very painful. Sleep was almost impossible. It was subsequently diagnosed as frozen shoulder. I’ve done loads of PT, haven’t climbed in eight months, and am not happy. My docs say, “If it hurts, don’t do it.” I know I’m definitely on the upswing, but am wondering when I should try to climb some mellow stuff. About once a week I try to do a push-up—it’s possible, but doesn’t feel great. I don’t think I could do a pull-up without wincing.

    KOLIN POWICKSALT LAKE CITY, UTAH


    Frozen shoulder is like a bad relationship: painful, too long and, for the avid rockateer, soul destroying. Technically known as adhesive capsulitis, it is considerably less understood than the dynamics of human love.

    For reasons largely unknown, the capsule that surrounds and supports the shoulder joint becomes inflamed, causing fibrous bands to form within. Consequently, the range of motion becomes severely restricted.

    On average, you are looking at a couple of years of pain and frustration. There are three conveniently named stages: freezing, frozen and thawing.

    The process typically starts with a minor shoulder injury and progresses within weeks to involve adhesive capsulitis. Difficult to say whether you had it originally (in its early stages) and it was missed, or whether the surgery was the catalyst, as can often happen.

    As the joint progressively stiffens, the party gets underway, capsulitis is joined by its brothers-in-arms-—synovitis and tendonitis. Like any good ménage à trois, sleep is impossible and exhaustion guaranteed.


    If the condition is caught in the first couple of months, it is possible to swing the obstinate tide of restriction (and pain) with very aggressive range of motion therapy. I’ve not seen it reversed from a fully frozen state using manual therapy alone, though there are practitioners who say they have done it.

    Hydrodilatation is the next option, and involves forcing a cocktail of pharmaceuticals into the joint cavity in order to stretch the capsule. In conjunction with aggressive stretching in the days that follow the injection, this protocol can be very effective.

    As the name suggests, manipulation under anaesthetic (MUA) is more akin to psychopathic S&M than brilliant medicine. For medicos, like politicians, brutality is always an option.

    Both the hydrodilatation and MUA are not for you, as it sounds like you are in the thawing phase. This may take six months, during which time you should regain the vast majority of your range of motion.

    I would agree with your doc so far as pointless aggravation is unhelpful. However, encouraging range of motion and building strength are integral components of any rehab program. Neither comes pain free.

    Mmm, let me think. Something that will make you happy, coax range and strengthen—shazam … easy trad!

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